R Mackow

The rubber dust boots or dust covers on my C5 caliper pistons have been burned off for at least two years now. Does anyone replace them? When do you tear down the caliper and clean out the piston bore? Is it a touchy process?
I wouldn't have problem doing this but have not done it before.

lbarnard

There is a rebuild kit for this. The kits are sold per caliper for fronts and rears. I did replace my front ones. I got them from the local Chevy dealer. They have held up for over a year now surprisingly!

varkwso

I do not bother - they will only melt again....

SouthernSon

So true. I would, however, make sure the caliper pins are well lubed each track event to prevent tapered pads. I believe mine have been binding and induced pad taper. Although many experience caliper spread, dirty pins cause this, too.

0Randy@DRM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncpg_P0hp7M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2FC8...eature=related

Here are a couple install videos on the removal and install of our Stainless steel pistons. You could use these for stock piston rebuild.

Randy

John Shiels

they transfer less heat to the fluid.

varkwso

carbon steel thermal conductivity at 225C = 47k (W/m k)

stainless thermal conductivity at 225C = 19k

Aluminum is 250k at the same conditions for comparison

Depends on alloy to some extent also...

0Randy@DRM

Thanks guys, somedays I just don't do that sales thing. I like to be one of the guys, not someone who doesn't post unless they are selling. Stainless steel will let less heat into the brake fluid, which will help the low pedal scare at the end of a hard run. The dust boots are still going to get beat up, but the inner seals will live longer.


Randy

John Shiels

we have you covered

drbenne

just got done rebuilding all 4 calipers. got the kits from GMparts direct. not a difficult process but one of those that the first takes 45 minutes and the last about 15 minutes.

I used a compressor with about 15 psi of pressure (the lowest pressure that would move the pistons) , and put a piece of wood in the caliper so the piston wouldn't hit the caliper as it came out.

To get the seals out of the caliper bore, I used the tip of a bic pen cap which was firm enough to evert the seal out of its groove and would not scratch the bore. Make sure you clean the bore and pistons well and lube with brake fluid. the kit comes with a orange grease for the caliper pins.

Most difficult part was getting all the air out of the calipers during bleeding the system. It is a messy process.

My front brakes had not been releasing when off the brakes(could barely turn the rotors manually). The seal rebuild took care of this issue.

0Randy@DRM

Tap the caliper with a rubber hammer a couple times about half way inbetween your bleeding. Little air bubbles can get trapped.

Randy

rustyguns

i think a lot people overlook this

rustyguns

hi temp poly boots would be nice but they would prob melt too

Last C5

I think Randy can also get you some titanium shields to go between the pistons and the pads. Between the shields and the DRM pistons my dust boots still look pretty good.

rustyguns

i noticed a difference after putting in the titanium shields if you look at some of the high end calipers the pistons are aluminum with stainless steel on the end of the piston next to the pad. must do something good

abc 123

You would not believe how many people/shops do not re-lube the pins. I've seen a few cars that have had the pins rusted into the abutment bracket.