Lt1er

I just received the three quart Accusump with electric valve and sandwich billet oil filter adapter.

Myself and directions are not clear. This is a no oil cooler or remote filter. The adapter is not marked oil in and out. From what I understand I would need a plug in the output side and hook the tank to the block oil galley "in" side of the of the adapter.

None of the directions show the sandwich adapter. Who out there can help me make the next race?

trackboss

The inlet is the same one that goes to the center of the filter.

Lt1er

So the oil comes from the pump to the outside of the oil filter media and then through the center hole on it's way to the crank blah blah blah?

So it's a typical screw job from the vendor. With four ends for the SS 10 AN line and no plug

That's what happens when you hire 8 buck an hour kids!

GettReal

I have mine running to the back of the block so I'm not help Had the block drilled for this while it was out getting fixed from when I spun a rod bearing

trackboss

What adapter do you have? Its typical on adapters to have and in and out simply because they are used for external oil coolers. If its one of those you simply plug the outlet. On some remote oil filter mounts there are two ins and two outs to allow for various plumbing configurations. Not really a screw job, but canton does sell sandwich adapters with only one port just for accusump installations.

Lt1er

Well that would have been nice also. I mean to get the adapter with just one port. I'm just going to get a 10 AN plug today.

I was also thinking about what the other poster said about the block. I have tapped in pipe going to a oil pressure sender.

My original problem is that in extended turns I have to watch the pressure gauge even with a 8 quart RR pan. I have to let off when I loose oil pressure. Over the years different C-5's spin and others spin rod bearing from high "G" turns

abc 123

Skip the adapter, just go to the galley plug at the forward driver side of the block.

GettReal

If you already have it tapped I would go this route. I did spin a rod bearing on mine this year because my home track has a couple high G sweepers that kills cars left right and center. Having my 3 qrt accusump tapped into the block has done the trick, I still see 40+lbs going around those same corners that killed me before. I do have an on/off toggle switch installed in my armrest but lately I just leave it in the on position [reason for that] I have a 110lb blow off valve on the accusump and with a hot day, lots of driving, in the off position, pressure builds up and blew the 110 mark what a mess, so now I just run with it on.

Falcon

Where does the 110#'s come from? The engine oil pump doesn't pump that much, does it? Something has to build that pressure.

GettReal

When the accusump switch (manual toggle switch) is turned on, you're correct, it runs the same as the engine oil pressure which is typically between 40 and 60, but when the accusump is turned off I assume the pressure builds up from heat. Like how a gas can builds pressure from just sitting in the sun.

Now I just always run with it in the on position

Lt1er

I was just under the car and installing the sandwich............. The accusump line would go right into the manual tranny clutch rod.

So I would need a pipe thread 45 or 90 degree output pipe

Does Canton sell a sandwich for a manual tranny by chance?

This is an older style small block