Welded Wheels
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Welded Wheels
Does anyone have any experience with modified welded wheels. I've seen where individuals have a band welded in for more width. This would be great if the end product is safe / durable.
I'd like to run 275s up front and keep matching stocker gumbies.
I'm running 285 Exsta XSs on the rear and am thinking 275s up front would give me a nice street tire AutoX setup.
I'd like to run 275s up front and keep matching stocker gumbies.
I'm running 285 Exsta XSs on the rear and am thinking 275s up front would give me a nice street tire AutoX setup.
Last edited by avizandum; 02-08-2009 at 06:36 PM.
#2
Drifting
Welded wheels are fine.
Weldcraft out of Michigan.
www.weldcraftwheels.com
I have been racing on their widened wheels for over a year. Their quality is outstanding.
Weldcraft out of Michigan.
www.weldcraftwheels.com
I have been racing on their widened wheels for over a year. Their quality is outstanding.
#3
Former Vendor
I wouldn't run them for a road race car. Drag over about 11 seconds or out on the road sure why not. As my welding teacher once told me, "only weld if there isn't a different way."
Randy
Randy
#5
Race Director
considering you usually have to buy more wheels to take the "slice" from, I'd just buy wheels in the correct size. Welding heat changes the metals properties, and while not necessarily unsafe, I'd rather have a wheel that was cast or forged all at once, not tempered in the middle.
#6
Le Mans Master
Does anyone have any experience with modified welded wheels. I've seen where individuals have a band welded in for more width. This would be great if the end product is safe / durable.
I'd like to run 275s up front and keep matching stocker gumbies.
I'm running 285 Exsta XSs on the rear and am thinking 275s up front would give me a nice street tire AutoX setup.
I'd like to run 275s up front and keep matching stocker gumbies.
I'm running 285 Exsta XSs on the rear and am thinking 275s up front would give me a nice street tire AutoX setup.
Bleh. The only thing I've noticed is better grip and balance. Tire wear has been normal (meaning I flip them once during their lifetime).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
#7
Melting Slicks
Weldcraft did two sets of my ZR1 street wheels, but there are for street and autocross use only. Ive been told by numerous sources the weld is stronger if done correctly, but I never took a chance by using them at the track.
Hell, I broke one of my track wheels at the track and nearly bit the bullet, so theres no way a modified wheel will do track duty.
Hell, I broke one of my track wheels at the track and nearly bit the bullet, so theres no way a modified wheel will do track duty.
#8
Race Director
VetteDrmr, I agree that the proof is in the pudding....I've used "oversized" tires on smaller rims with great results too.
ZR1 MK, I also have a friend who is a welder and states that a STEEL joint is stronger than the steel around it, HOWEVER I have my doubts that aluminum welds are the same.
I would use widened rims for the street if for some reason I could NOT buy the look/size I wanted, but I'd not do it at the track. There are too many great wheels available that do the job as a single mold/forging!
ZR1 MK, I also have a friend who is a welder and states that a STEEL joint is stronger than the steel around it, HOWEVER I have my doubts that aluminum welds are the same.
I would use widened rims for the street if for some reason I could NOT buy the look/size I wanted, but I'd not do it at the track. There are too many great wheels available that do the job as a single mold/forging!
#9
Former Vendor
Well,
Back in the day I spent 10-14 hours a day welding on Alumium. The weld if done 100 percent correctly will be stronger then the base metal, simular to steel. The problem lies in the surrounding base metal, like farmer said earlier. Then starts and stops on the weld can create a huge issue with alumium welding. There is a small crater that gets formed, everytime you stop. Sence penetration is a problem with welding alumium, it's very easy to get a crater trapped under the beed. Then on top of it all, if a crack starts, it travels very rapidly around the seem and can happen in a heartbeat. There is about a million reasons not to run a welded up wheel.
Just my further thoughts on this.
Randy
Back in the day I spent 10-14 hours a day welding on Alumium. The weld if done 100 percent correctly will be stronger then the base metal, simular to steel. The problem lies in the surrounding base metal, like farmer said earlier. Then starts and stops on the weld can create a huge issue with alumium welding. There is a small crater that gets formed, everytime you stop. Sence penetration is a problem with welding alumium, it's very easy to get a crater trapped under the beed. Then on top of it all, if a crack starts, it travels very rapidly around the seem and can happen in a heartbeat. There is about a million reasons not to run a welded up wheel.
Just my further thoughts on this.
Randy
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm running 275/305 on stock wagon wheels. Everyone that doesn't do this yells at me that "You don't have the right contact patch" or "that's bigger than the manufacturer recommends."
Bleh. The only thing I've noticed is better grip and balance. Tire wear has been normal (meaning I flip them once during their lifetime).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Bleh. The only thing I've noticed is better grip and balance. Tire wear has been normal (meaning I flip them once during their lifetime).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
I'd love CCWs, but I'm feeling lean...
#11
Drifting
Great post and info folks. Thanks. I was seriously considering widening stock C6 18" fronts for rear track use. That's a nominal $600 investment total.
So, if the OP will pardon my hijack (sounds like we're in a similar situation though), is there a decent recommendation for frequent, advanced HPDE use that is even in the same ballpark in terms of $$$?
BTW, I've been using 295/19 and 275/18 R888s on OEM C6 wagonwheels . . . and yes, that changes the rake a tad.
FM
So, if the OP will pardon my hijack (sounds like we're in a similar situation though), is there a decent recommendation for frequent, advanced HPDE use that is even in the same ballpark in terms of $$$?
BTW, I've been using 295/19 and 275/18 R888s on OEM C6 wagonwheels . . . and yes, that changes the rake a tad.
FM
#12
Le Mans Master
Have a good one,
Mike
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Sartell Minnesota
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You got 305's on a 9.5" rear wheel? that's awesome. i did get 295's on my last 9.5" set so i suppose 1 size bigger isn't a HUGE deal. I'd do 265's in the front of the stocker
I'm running 275/305 on stock wagon wheels. Everyone that doesn't do this yells at me that "You don't have the right contact patch" or "that's bigger than the manufacturer recommends."
Bleh. The only thing I've noticed is better grip and balance. Tire wear has been normal (meaning I flip them once during their lifetime).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Bleh. The only thing I've noticed is better grip and balance. Tire wear has been normal (meaning I flip them once during their lifetime).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike