Rebuildable C4 Front Wheel bearings
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Rebuildable C4 Front Wheel bearings
This information is from an f-body forum (http://www.frrax.com). These are designed for 4th gen f-bodies, but will fit C4's if the holes are drilled out or the bolts are installed the other direction.
These appear to be very well built, and hopefully the last set of hubs you'll ever buy. I'm just reposting this information here; I'm not involved with this business.
Any questions should be directed to Mike (contact info below).
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MJM Racing is proud to present the first rebuildable, adjustable and regreasable front hub for 4th gen F-bodies. As most of you know already, these have been a long time coming and have gone though several interations and lots of testing over the last two years. If you've ever autocrossed with 315 Hoosier's or Kumho's, you know why these were developed.
Pictures can be seen here:
http://www.mjmracing.shutterfly.com/
Highlights:
1. New forged and hardened 4340 steel spindle made by Mark Williams Enterprises to MJM Racing, LLC specifications
2. Timken tapered roller bearings
3. Factory ABS retained
4. Original exterior dimensions retained for a "bolt on" application with no other modifications required.
5. Adjustable for bearing play, regreasable and rebuildable.
6. Comes with new ARP studs
We will begin to take orders on 1-1-09.
We need to get at least 20 pairs in the initial order to get the best pricing on machine work and parts. Please post any questions as well as stating your interest so a list can be compiled.
The initial price will be $650 each plus a core. That price will apply to this first initial offering only and these are only offered to the people of this site at this time. The core charge will be $100 per hub if you do not have any old ones you can send. Frankly, cores are necessary and if that ends up being too low of a core charge to get people to send cores, it will go up. Please be considerate and at least knock the big chunks of rust, dirt and grease off before you send them. If you have already sent cores to help with development your names are recorded and you need not send any additional cores (unless you want to).
Our lawyer has prepared a document that must be signed by each interested party prior to any transaction. A copy will be emailed to all who state they are interested in purchase.
Please post all questions here or call me, my PM folder is already a bit full.
Mike Minear
Managing Member
MJM Racing, LLC
303-710-9297
These appear to be very well built, and hopefully the last set of hubs you'll ever buy. I'm just reposting this information here; I'm not involved with this business.
Any questions should be directed to Mike (contact info below).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
MJM Racing is proud to present the first rebuildable, adjustable and regreasable front hub for 4th gen F-bodies. As most of you know already, these have been a long time coming and have gone though several interations and lots of testing over the last two years. If you've ever autocrossed with 315 Hoosier's or Kumho's, you know why these were developed.
Pictures can be seen here:
http://www.mjmracing.shutterfly.com/
Highlights:
1. New forged and hardened 4340 steel spindle made by Mark Williams Enterprises to MJM Racing, LLC specifications
2. Timken tapered roller bearings
3. Factory ABS retained
4. Original exterior dimensions retained for a "bolt on" application with no other modifications required.
5. Adjustable for bearing play, regreasable and rebuildable.
6. Comes with new ARP studs
We will begin to take orders on 1-1-09.
We need to get at least 20 pairs in the initial order to get the best pricing on machine work and parts. Please post any questions as well as stating your interest so a list can be compiled.
The initial price will be $650 each plus a core. That price will apply to this first initial offering only and these are only offered to the people of this site at this time. The core charge will be $100 per hub if you do not have any old ones you can send. Frankly, cores are necessary and if that ends up being too low of a core charge to get people to send cores, it will go up. Please be considerate and at least knock the big chunks of rust, dirt and grease off before you send them. If you have already sent cores to help with development your names are recorded and you need not send any additional cores (unless you want to).
Our lawyer has prepared a document that must be signed by each interested party prior to any transaction. A copy will be emailed to all who state they are interested in purchase.
Please post all questions here or call me, my PM folder is already a bit full.
Mike Minear
Managing Member
MJM Racing, LLC
303-710-9297
#3
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Wow!!! Looking Good!! Its a shame I just ordered some fronts but I guess when those go I will try these. Its a shame I will have to lose my ABS though...
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Why would you lose ABS? These work with the f-body ABS, and I'm 95% sure that they would then work with the y-body ABS as well.
#5
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I have a '90. The sensor is different. Only the ABS on '91-'96 is like the F-bodies. My sensor plugs into the side of the knuckle not the back of the spindle.
#7
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FYI
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...&post_id=76860
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...&post_id=76860
CentralCoaster wrote:
Ok, the bearing shown on their website (aside from the threaded holes) will work on 84-85 and 91-96 Corvettes.
It will "fit" the 86-90 Corvette, but your ABS sensor is different, so I don't know if it will work with ABS.
Also, the 84-85 Corvette bearing was superceded by the 86-90 bearing. Most 84-85 owners with replacement front bearings, and all 86-90 owners will have a bearing that they may or may not be capable of modifying.
But somebody should ask and point them to this thread:
Here's the backside of the 86-90 vette bearing:
Here's the backside of the original 84-85 vette bearing:
Here's the backside of the 91-96 vette bearing:
(Those big holes in the wheel flange are for removing the knuckle bolts.)
Ok, the bearing shown on their website (aside from the threaded holes) will work on 84-85 and 91-96 Corvettes.
It will "fit" the 86-90 Corvette, but your ABS sensor is different, so I don't know if it will work with ABS.
Also, the 84-85 Corvette bearing was superceded by the 86-90 bearing. Most 84-85 owners with replacement front bearings, and all 86-90 owners will have a bearing that they may or may not be capable of modifying.
But somebody should ask and point them to this thread:
Here's the backside of the 86-90 vette bearing:
Here's the backside of the original 84-85 vette bearing:
Here's the backside of the 91-96 vette bearing:
(Those big holes in the wheel flange are for removing the knuckle bolts.)
#8
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Would my sensor cable plug into the back of an F-Body bearing? Or could I get the cable from a '91-newer and splice it into my existing harness?
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It might plug right in, but if that won't work, getting the pigtail and wiring it in seems like it should work fine, but I've never worked on one of the early cars.
#11
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I'd be happy to answer any questions you guys have. Feel free to call me.
In looking at the photos above of the older versions, I don't think mine will work with the ABS on the 86-90 and may not work for the 84-85 either.
I have a few questions for you guys. Will the 91-96 hub bolt up with the plastic ABS sensor cap in place? Is the reluctor ring on the 86-90 version exposed behind the upright? What about the 84-85, can the back of the bub be seen from the back of the upright?
The reason I ask is that the plastic cap is also the grease seal on that end of the hub. Unless the back of the hub is concealed by a pocket in the upright, the cap must remain.
In looking at the photos above of the older versions, I don't think mine will work with the ABS on the 86-90 and may not work for the 84-85 either.
I have a few questions for you guys. Will the 91-96 hub bolt up with the plastic ABS sensor cap in place? Is the reluctor ring on the 86-90 version exposed behind the upright? What about the 84-85, can the back of the bub be seen from the back of the upright?
The reason I ask is that the plastic cap is also the grease seal on that end of the hub. Unless the back of the hub is concealed by a pocket in the upright, the cap must remain.
#12
Melting Slicks
I'd be happy to answer any questions you guys have. Feel free to call me.
In looking at the photos above of the older versions, I don't think mine will work with the ABS on the 86-90 and may not work for the 84-85 either.
I have a few questions for you guys. Will the 91-96 hub bolt up with the plastic ABS sensor cap in place? Is the reluctor ring on the 86-90 version exposed behind the upright? What about the 84-85, can the back of the bub be seen from the back of the upright?
The reason I ask is that the plastic cap is also the grease seal on that end of the hub. Unless the back of the hub is concealed by a pocket in the upright, the cap must remain.
In looking at the photos above of the older versions, I don't think mine will work with the ABS on the 86-90 and may not work for the 84-85 either.
I have a few questions for you guys. Will the 91-96 hub bolt up with the plastic ABS sensor cap in place? Is the reluctor ring on the 86-90 version exposed behind the upright? What about the 84-85, can the back of the bub be seen from the back of the upright?
The reason I ask is that the plastic cap is also the grease seal on that end of the hub. Unless the back of the hub is concealed by a pocket in the upright, the cap must remain.
Anyone know if a plug and play conversion to the later style cable is possible?
Do your hub trade-ins come with the abs cap?
Do you weld the new spindle to the mounting flange?
for your engineering efforts.
#13
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The back of the knuckle is closed and would need to opened on the older version. An easy do it yourself item.
This may not be necessary if the hub will fit with the plastic cap removed. My only concern would be the depth of the enclosed pocket. It may also be wise to apply some RTV silicone to the 4 bolt mounting flange if this would work.
Anyone know if a plug and play conversion to the later style cable is possible?
Do your hub trade-ins come with the abs cap?
Yes, but I get them from the cores.
Do you weld the new spindle to the mounting flange?
No, the spindle and wheel flange are one new piece made of forged and hardened 4340. Welding would not be strong enough.
for your engineering efforts.
This may not be necessary if the hub will fit with the plastic cap removed. My only concern would be the depth of the enclosed pocket. It may also be wise to apply some RTV silicone to the 4 bolt mounting flange if this would work.
Anyone know if a plug and play conversion to the later style cable is possible?
Do your hub trade-ins come with the abs cap?
Yes, but I get them from the cores.
Do you weld the new spindle to the mounting flange?
No, the spindle and wheel flange are one new piece made of forged and hardened 4340. Welding would not be strong enough.
for your engineering efforts.
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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I got the bearing installed this weekend.
He uses the Firebird housings, so it's tapped for a bolt, as opposed to clear drilled like the Corvette bearings
No problem I just put the stock bolts in from behind.
Man I didn't realize how shot my front bearing was until I replace it!
The steering is nice and tight now.
He uses the Firebird housings, so it's tapped for a bolt, as opposed to clear drilled like the Corvette bearings
No problem I just put the stock bolts in from behind.
Man I didn't realize how shot my front bearing was until I replace it!
The steering is nice and tight now.
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The owner of the company has put a year of hard autocrossing on them in his 2000 Camaro on 315's. He usually puts play in new, stock hubs in 1 auto-x, so he definitely abuses them. He hasn't had any issues since finalizing the design.