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Old 03-12-2009, 09:59 AM
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wmk32
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Default Trailer Questions

I know trailer threads come up every so often so bear with me. I did some searches and most threads seem to have already dropped off the search list.

I've got an 18' open trailer used to haul a tractor from place to place that mostly collects dust so i figured it might as well pull double duty. As far as I can tell i need the following, but am i missing anything?

Install D rings on trailer - does anyone have a diagram as to placement?
Get T hooks for car ( c6 non z )
Get (4) 10k capacity tie down straps
Enough lumber to clear the non removable fenders
Enough 2x6 to not scrape when loading / unloading
Cheap atv winch & power source - is this worth the effort?

What am i missing?
Old 03-12-2009, 11:24 AM
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Brett Richmond
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Get a cheap winch from Harbor Freight, 2000lbs dead pull weight, works great for my C4 and was only $40 on sale. I bought 2 in case the other one craps out at some point because I don't use it all the time.
Old 03-12-2009, 12:01 PM
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mgarfias
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What about the straps? I've not been able to find anything have a twisted hook, and a flat hook. Any ideas?
Old 03-12-2009, 12:44 PM
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jwt1603
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Try these guys for straps and hooks.........

http://www.awdirect.com/
Old 03-12-2009, 06:15 PM
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How long are the loading ramps and what are they made from? Is the trailer a dovetail or flat deck?

I haul my C4 on an 18' open trailer and for location of the D-rings, I put one at each rear corner of my trailer and for the front, they are inboard far enough so that the front straps clear the inside of the front tires from the factory tiedown points behind the suspension.

With a C5 you should be able to cross both front and rear straps so that the D-rings can be at the outside corners of the trailers.

It's important to position the car on the trailer so the tongue weight is what you want before you get straps. Most straps for car tie-downs are 8' long. If the car sits too far forward or to the rear, you may need longer straps.

You can get separate ratchets and straps from Truck-n-Tow They have straps that already have T-hooks attached to the strap. That way you won't have to deal with a flat hook and twisted hook.

I have a 3000lb Harbor Freight winch that I got for $89 on sale. You can add a plastic battery box to the tongue and use a quick disconnect for the power cables so you don't have to leave the winch attached.
Old 03-12-2009, 06:26 PM
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Everett Ogilvie
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Best source for professional tie-downs I have found;

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
Old 03-12-2009, 10:33 PM
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the blur
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I have 2 weld-on D rings for sale. I brought 4, only used 2. These are heavy duty, and commonly found on the rear of trucks.

let me know if you need them. I'll let them go cheap.
Old 03-12-2009, 10:47 PM
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davidfarmer
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you want the tie down spread enough that the tires don't rest on top of/against them when tight, and you want them far enough forward/rearward that you can reach them without having to crawl under the car....especially in the front.
Old 03-12-2009, 11:11 PM
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Kanmer
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For straps http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_21925_21925

For hooks http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_43572_43572

Its what a lot of us use. I have never had an issue with any of it.

Bob
Old 03-12-2009, 11:44 PM
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Bob86ZZ4
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We use this type of strapping system: http://www.awdirect.com/8-point-trai...traps-and-acc/ . You need to have your rings installed properly for this but it is the best way to go I think. It allows you to strap the car down by the tires and doesn't force you to load up the springs to keep the car down. Another benefit is you don't have to reach under the car to put the straps on. Everything works from outside the tires. It is simply the best way to go. But, you need to have enough rings in the right spots for it. I think the biggest thing is it holds the car down tight to the trailer by the tires and lets the suspension free to allow the car some movement and doesn't load up the springs. Some tow truck guys call this the "California Roll Back" system.
Old 03-13-2009, 12:29 AM
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Either electric or surge brakes on a trailer and a spare tire,
with a lug wrench that fits the nuts on the trailer wheels.
Old 03-13-2009, 07:49 AM
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wmk32
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[QUOTE=c4cruiser;1569273251]How long are the loading ramps and what are they made from? Is the trailer a dovetail or flat deck?

If memory serves correct it is a dovetail and the ramps are metal. Does being dovetail make any significant difference in a loading process or d-ring placement?
Old 03-13-2009, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Z11409
a spare tire,
with a lug wrench that fits the nuts on the trailer wheels.
Spoken like someone with experience.
Old 03-14-2009, 09:54 AM
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[QUOTE=wmk32;1569278429]
Originally Posted by c4cruiser
How long are the loading ramps and what are they made from? Is the trailer a dovetail or flat deck?

If memory serves correct it is a dovetail and the ramps are metal. Does being dovetail make any significant difference in a loading process or d-ring placement?
The dovetail simply decreases the angle for loading the car and will help with clearance. I have D-rings at the outside corners of the frame even with a dovetail.

But you should load the car on the trailer and then position the car so that you have the proper tongue weight (10-15% of the weight of both the car and trailer). Once the car is positioned, loosely attach the straps to the car and to the D-rings and then move the D-rings around so that there is no rubbing or interference with the straps. Remember to cross one pair of straps before marking the D-ring locations for welding.

Mark the locations for the D-rings and weld them in place. I used 5000 lb rated D-rings and had them welded in place. You want really good penetration for the welds

You may find that the rear of the car will back far enough that the rear D-rings can be welded at the rear outside corners of the trailer (back of the dovetail)
Old 03-14-2009, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Z11409
Either electric or surge brakes on a trailer and a spare tire,
with a lug wrench that fits the nuts on the trailer wheels.
And a bottle jack because most race jacks will not lift the trailer and car.
Old 03-14-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoffman
And a bottle jack because most race jacks will not lift the trailer and car.
From my own experiences... I misread that at first as a "Bottle of Jack"
Old 03-14-2009, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoffman
And a bottle jack because most race jacks will not lift the trailer and car.
Or--drive good tyre up on to a block ,which leaves the defective tyre hanging in the air.

Majority of trailer tires rot out from old age long before the tyre is bald.

We always lock the trailer to the tow rig so someone does not haul it off.If a open trailer is being used and your parking overnite ,chain and lock car to trailer .

A very inexpensive car alarm wooks well on enclosed trailers.
Ever wonder what security measure pros teams use when leaving rigs overnite??????

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Old 03-15-2009, 01:37 PM
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wmk32
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[QUOTE=c4cruiser;1569292298]
Originally Posted by wmk32

The dovetail simply decreases the angle for loading the car and will help with clearance. I have D-rings at the outside corners of the frame even with a dovetail.

But you should load the car on the trailer and then position the car so that you have the proper tongue weight (10-15% of the weight of both the car and trailer). Once the car is positioned, loosely attach the straps to the car and to the D-rings and then move the D-rings around so that there is no rubbing or interference with the straps. Remember to cross one pair of straps before marking the D-ring locations for welding.

Mark the locations for the D-rings and weld them in place. I used 5000 lb rated D-rings and had them welded in place. You want really good penetration for the welds

You may find that the rear of the car will back far enough that the rear D-rings can be welded at the rear outside corners of the trailer (back of the dovetail)
Thanks for the info. I'm going to tackle this project in the next few weeks before the next track weekend.
Old 03-15-2009, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Z11409
Or--drive good tyre up on to a block ,which leaves the defective tyre hanging in the air.

Majority of trailer tires rot out from old age long before the tyre is bald.

We always lock the trailer to the tow rig so someone does not haul it off.If a open trailer is being used and your parking overnite ,chain and lock car to trailer .
with the above...
Old 03-15-2009, 01:43 PM
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the blur
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2) D rings for sale. cheap.
I'm cleaning out the garage.
good deal for someone.

weld on required.
I had the other 2 welded on by a pro,
makes a great addition to any trailer.



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