Brake Fluid Bleed/Flush - C5Z06
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Brake Fluid Bleed/Flush - C5Z06
Hey all-
This should be an easy question- planning on bleeding/flushing the brakes before the autox season starts-
How much Ford Super Duty fluid should I buy ahead of time?
I have never bled them and I would doubt if the original owner did either as it only has 12K miles on an 03 when I got it last August.
I am going to use the mity-vac method which says a quart but I don't think this will be enough especially as I plan to put the same stuff in the clutch- If I end up participating as I plan this year I am going to get those speedbleeders but I dont have time before the first race.
Thanks,
Andrew
This should be an easy question- planning on bleeding/flushing the brakes before the autox season starts-
How much Ford Super Duty fluid should I buy ahead of time?
I have never bled them and I would doubt if the original owner did either as it only has 12K miles on an 03 when I got it last August.
I am going to use the mity-vac method which says a quart but I don't think this will be enough especially as I plan to put the same stuff in the clutch- If I end up participating as I plan this year I am going to get those speedbleeders but I dont have time before the first race.
Thanks,
Andrew
#2
Safety Car
Mine takes less than a quart, but I rotate the ATE blue and amber so I know pretty quickly when it is flushed. Post on how the Mityvac does. I would be curious to know. Have fun at the track - it will be the best time you have ever had legally in your car.
#3
Le Mans Master
Moron Edit:
For some reason I saw "Clutch" instead of "BRAKE" fluid
For some reason I saw "Clutch" instead of "BRAKE" fluid
Last edited by AverageVetteNut; 03-19-2009 at 08:05 PM. Reason: me=stupid
#4
Melting Slicks
I use a Turkey bastor and suck all the old out and clean resevoir real good, then fill with new fluid. Then I pump the clutch about 20 times and cycle some of the new thru the line and more of the old comes back to the surface. Use bastor again & repeat this step twice and and fill.
I have an 03 Z06 SCCA T1 car and it has worked well for me the past 3 years. I run the Wilwood fluid from Summit and knock on wood it's been great.
That's my .02
Aaron
I have an 03 Z06 SCCA T1 car and it has worked well for me the past 3 years. I run the Wilwood fluid from Summit and knock on wood it's been great.
That's my .02
Aaron
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2004
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Agree with *me, a quart should be enough for the brakes; good to have another pint to iteratively refresh the clutch resevoir, per posts by *nut and *boy above.
I just did pads, rotors, and fluid for a guy in two sessions recently.
Did a full bleed when replacing the front rotors, about 10 pumps per wheel.
While waiting for rears to come in he bedded the front pads and exercised the ABS - moving old fluid out of the resevoir.
Then we did the rear rotors and pads and another full bleed ... total fluid - about 3/4 qt.
without speedbleeders you'll need an assistant to pump while you manage the bleed tube and bleeder open/close.
I just did pads, rotors, and fluid for a guy in two sessions recently.
Did a full bleed when replacing the front rotors, about 10 pumps per wheel.
While waiting for rears to come in he bedded the front pads and exercised the ABS - moving old fluid out of the resevoir.
Then we did the rear rotors and pads and another full bleed ... total fluid - about 3/4 qt.
without speedbleeders you'll need an assistant to pump while you manage the bleed tube and bleeder open/close.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: KADS- If it has wings or an engine, I can break it. Dallas TX
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Might want to use the Tech 2 tool. To open the valves on the ABS module, this will flush out the ABS, and give you clean fluid throught the system.
#7
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
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The Ford fluid comes in 12oz cans and usually costs me about $4.50 a can. I buy 6 or 8 cans at a time to get me through the track season. First bleed of the year I will usually go through 3 cans to make sure I get all of the fluid flushed. Better to waste some and get all of the old fluid out. When I start the bleed I suck all of the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and refill with new fluid. Since you are autocrossing and not doing any HPDEs one bleed/flush at the beginning of the season should be sufficient.
Bill
Bill
#8
Melting Slicks
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#10
Melting Slicks
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks guys- I couldn't find the Ford SD anywhere as the local dealers haven't heard of it so I am going to go with the Wilwood EXT6000 from JEGS locally - more expensive but they at least know what I am talking about.
I did mean the clutch and brakes so no confusion has been caused - I plan to use the same stuff in both- I already did the clutch with prestone dot 3 (via the turkey baster method- which I now have aquired a big animal vetrinarian syringe) and its black again in less than 2000 miles so I figure while I had the can open and fresh I would use the rest to do the clutch again at the same time.
So quart and a pint or two bottles of wilwood. I will post up in this thread how the mity-vac does-
Laters,
Andrew
I did mean the clutch and brakes so no confusion has been caused - I plan to use the same stuff in both- I already did the clutch with prestone dot 3 (via the turkey baster method- which I now have aquired a big animal vetrinarian syringe) and its black again in less than 2000 miles so I figure while I had the can open and fresh I would use the rest to do the clutch again at the same time.
So quart and a pint or two bottles of wilwood. I will post up in this thread how the mity-vac does-
Laters,
Andrew
#12
Safety Car
Better get that brake-bleeding process down pat, you'll need to be a pro at it once I start talking you into heading to Mid-Ohio with me for some HPDEs!
Hope all is well in Columbus Andrew.
Hope all is well in Columbus Andrew.
#13
Team Owner
A Ford dealer doesn't have the Ford Motorsports HD fluid?? The local dealer in town always has two cases in stock. And it's not a big dealership.
I use ATE Super Blue and the gold-colored TYP200 and that rune me about $12.50 per liter and it comes in metal cans.
I use ATE Super Blue and the gold-colored TYP200 and that rune me about $12.50 per liter and it comes in metal cans.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
All Ford brake fluid is the SD/HD? I thought it was for heavy trucks... hmm... I clearly was not aware of this. Oh I like the idea of different colored fluids- Do you use it in the clutch as well?
here is a cool website I found that helped me and maybe others in the future.
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/brakefluid.htm
Last edited by hpfiend; 03-20-2009 at 06:46 PM.
#16
Former Vendor
I'd suggest you begin the the more economical 570.
The EXP600 is great for a true race car. Meaning in short time the fluid will be less effective and need to be replaced sooner than most wish to consider doing....the more 'high end' the fluid, the shorter the life span of the product as a general rule.
I know of a number of guys who run brakes extremely hot and do well on the 570 and have seen no need for EXP. Aside from the dry boiling point EXP offers no additional value.
The EXP600 is great for a true race car. Meaning in short time the fluid will be less effective and need to be replaced sooner than most wish to consider doing....the more 'high end' the fluid, the shorter the life span of the product as a general rule.
I know of a number of guys who run brakes extremely hot and do well on the 570 and have seen no need for EXP. Aside from the dry boiling point EXP offers no additional value.
#17
Safety Car
I use ATE Type200/Blue. Easy to see the change (amber / blue) when you want to do an entire flush. Plus, the stuff is relatively cheap and easy to find.