waddisme

Car is down while I am standing rad back up so I thought I would go ahead and do my Accusump. Here is what I think I need:

1 - 3 qt High Pressure Accusump (24-016) w/mounting kit with 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapter on top
2 - 90* hose end attached to approx 3 ft -10AN line with 1/2"NPT on other end
3 - EPC Valve (35-40 PSI) 24-273 w/ 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapter at output
4 - Aprox 2 ft -10AN hose with -10AN hose ends
5 - Earls 16mm x 1.5 fitting for oil galley on left front side of block #9919FFJERL

I am locating valve on inside of engine bay instead of in fender well. Also, I am wiring electric valve into fuel pump relay, so it only works when fuel pump is activated. Don't want to really tie line into oil cooler return lines as that would make for 2 more chances of leaks, plus adding a check valve. Am I forgetting anything? Any particular place better than others to get Accusump and valve? Thanks in advance.

mgarfias

Looks good to me. Mounting inside the engine bay is a good idea. Wish I'd done that instead of inside the fender. I've had one EPC valve go out (due to water getting on it), and a pressure switch go flakey (i think due to water as well). Putting those inside the engine bay would have saved them from the water problem, and made them easier to service if they had gone out.

Wish I knew of a source for a solenoid switched valve that used AN fittings instead of pipe. I think brass is a bad idea on a car.

kmagvette

How much does one of these typically cost, assuming a self-install?

trackboss

If you are plumbing into an oil galley before the filter there is always a chance the oil will go back towards the pump and into the pan instead of where it needs to go. If its after the filter you simply need to make sure you use a filter with an anti-drainback valve or the same thing can happen. Some choose to plumb into the oil pump, but personally I think its better directly into the oil path (oil cooler return with one way valve). Oil gets where it needs to faster and is not slowed down in any way by oil pump. What if pump fails?

davidfarmer

he's plumbing it into the right place.

waddisme

Is the 3 qt high pressure accusump overkill? I figure with a 402, I should get the biggest capacity available.

waddisme

Accusump = $169
Mounting kit = $17
Electric valve = $150
SS hose -10AN = $10/ft approx 5 ft needed
Hose ends and apapters = $100

Insurance for $9,000 motor = priceless

Rob Willis

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category

&

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

trackboss

The high pressure is extremely long. You will have a hard time finding a spot for it unless you install it inside the car.

waddisme

The hp sump is 6" longer. Hopefully the reg 3 qt will be enough. Prices are much cheaper on-line than on Canton's website. Thanks ROB. I am ordering tomorrow. Thanks.

Slalom4me

High pressure or high capacity?

.

trackboss

According to canton its high pressure. I believe the extra length allows for a larger air chamber. I've installed both versions and the high pressure is pretty darn long. In my C5 I use a regular 3 qt. If I were installing it inside the car I'd go for the high pressure. There is a thread somewhere here that has photos of my install.

Rob Willis

NP.

Do you need tools to finish the lines/fittings (AN)? Or no special tools needed?


http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

waddisme

If you go to Earls website, they have a video on how to install the hose ends correctly. I did the ones for my oil cooler and none of them have leaked yet. I thought it would be the hardest part, but it turned out to be the easiest. The masonary chisel to cuts lines is pretty clever. Mine didn't cut as clean as theirs so I cleaned it up with cutoff saw.

Slalom4me

Accumulators such as Canton's and Moroso's operate in a manner
such that the maximum pressure in the accumulator is limited to
the maximum oil pressure achieved by the engine. (Boyle's Law)

An accumulator rated for high pressure service may offer benefits
for applications where engine oil pressure peaks in the 90 - 140 PSI
range - some modified Buicks, Fords and Chryslers are built to see
these kinds of pressures.

However, for SBC's (whatever generation) that operate in the
vicinity of 55-70 psi, my vote is that there is no benefit derived
from using an accumulator rated for high pressure. The drawbacks
may be increased weight and packaging difficulty.

.

Slalom4me

My vote is to borrow or purchase a chop saw/cut-off saw.

These have an abrasive cut-off wheel with a fence and clamping
mechanism. Together, those features make cutting clean,
perpendicular cuts on braided SS lines quick, safe and trouble-free.

Wrap the hose tightly at the cut line with tape to keep the braid from
fraying. Be certain to throughly flush cutting debris from the hose
afterwards.

Import cut-off saws are available for less than $40 at places like
Harbor Freight. Brand name saws are available for $100-200. Make
sure that the cut capacity is sufficient for the intended dimensions.
Koul Tools offers a set of fixtures that makes installation of hose
into the fitting socket a little easier. Pricy, but they may be worth
the investment in some settings.
.

trackboss

I've assembled tons of fittings in all kinds of hose. On my C5 I tried the earls pro lite hose and it was the easiest ever. Cuts very nice with a pvc pipe cutter and hose ends go on same was as normal steel braided hose, but with no hassle or bleeding fingers.

Slalom4me

For weight, bend radius, temp range and cost, I took to using Aeroquip
FC 350 AQP hose for several applications. This has a nylon outer
braid with a single SS inner braid.

When I heard about Earl's Pro-Lite 350, I wondered whether it was
simply a house-branded version of FC 350. However, P-L 350 uses
a textile inner braid.

I can see how it is possible to cut Earl's Pro-Lite 350 with a pipe
cutter. However, my vote that a p-cutter would prove less
satisfactory on hose with SS braid (outer or inner).

.

Rob's 73

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I used this to cut the lines. Worked like a champ.

If you want a substantial pre-lube I would not wire to the fuel pump relay. It takes mine a few seconds to see 10 psi on the dash with cold oil. The fuel pump relay will only give you 2 seconds max. With the 30-40 psi valve and mounted closer to the motor it might not take as long. Mine is on the sump and you can hear it clicking on and off as it detects the pressure (20-25 psi) even though the gauge doesn't read the same pressure. With the engine off, you are blowing a lot of the oil back through the pump. I wait until it climbs to 10 psi before I start.


Post pics of where you mount your valve. I like the idea of having it closer to the motor.

trackboss

The pipe cutter will only work on non-steel sleeved hose. There are several brands of similar hose. Aeroquip makes a great hose just more expensive. For steel braided I've found a chop saw works well as mentioned above. With whatever fiber cutting devise (chop saw, cutoff wheel, etc.) is used one just needs to go slow to help prevent fraying.