haikun

I was wondering if anyone has tried to use Dewitt for handling transmission cooling as well on top of normal coolant / oil ?

What connectors, hoses, pumps, filters did You use ?

/Hakan

trackboss

I have the dewitts with right side oil cooler and it works great. -10 fittings. 90* both on the radiator. They offer the radiator with left side cooler as well, but that side is the hot side and harder to get to the fittings without moving the radiator. I don't have an automatic so I don't know about the transmission cooler.

haikun

Thx Trackboss !

I talked to Dewitt today and they have a cooler for the C5 which have the "normal" water coolant + EOC and TOC for automatics, trying to save space and see if anyone ever tried to use the TOC part for cooling the manual transmission (instead of installing yet another radiator for trans only).

Also heard that the Dewitt hose assembly is great, but a bit of a problem to install (might need to lift the engine a bit) Anyone having feedback or tips is highly appreciated.

/Hakan

trackboss

You do not want to use a transmission cooler for engine oil. Get the same radiator I have. Dont' even bother with a left side cooler. Use -10 plumbing. 90* fittings on the cooler and also on the block adapter. Life will be much easier if you use non-steel braided hose. I used earl's pro-lite 350. Cuts really easy and clean with a pvc pipe ratchet cutter and assembles just as easy with no bloody fingers. I also wrapped mine with heat sleave and recently on top of that I put some teflon spiral wrap to resist wear. S.S. is much more durable, but it saws through everything and is much heavier not to mention harder to assemble fittings.

0Tom@Dewitt

I have to disagree with that. I HIGHLY recomment the left side EOC with a modified C6 GM hose assembly. The key to this package is that it has a built-in 7 psi bypass valve which allows you to use much smaller lines. Not metioned (but I did) the kit cost about 1/3 what the fancy stainless steel does

haikun

Planning to use dewitt's linr hookup for the engine oul cooler hookup with the pressure sensor. Just wanted to see if anyine have tried to use Dewitt cooler which has 3 separate elements and use the portion intended for automatic transmission for a manual gearbox instead.

Will definitely look at isolating the cables.

Thx Hakan

haikun

Thx for feedback, quick question on the modified C6 GM hose, is that bending, shortening or something else ?

0Tom@Dewitt

The C6 hose assembly does not have a port for the C5 temp sender, so we add one. We also include two special quick connect fittings for the radiator. Some people say the factory assembly is hard to install and others say it was a snap. I guess it's just different levels of mechanical skill.

trackboss

I personally think the cold side is better for cooling and -10 AN lines will flow better than the bent factory hard lines. The factory lines will probably package a little tighter giving a factory appearance. I"ve done a whole lot of cooling systems on several race cars as well as street cars and never have I used a built in oil cooler that was on the hot side of the radiator. This includes Ron Davis, Griffin, C&R, and recently my own dewitts radiator.

0Tom@Dewitt

GM engineers didn't have any problem with going with the left side tank on C6s. You might think the right side is better but the left has several advantages. First all you need is a delta T of 20 to get the cooler to work and a typical racing application will have 275-290 oil entering the eoc with a 220-240 water temp, so there really is no problem there. Dumping the heat from the oil into the coolant on the inlet (hot side as you say) is actually a good idea because this heat has to cross the radiator and remove some of it before it returns to the motor. The hose length to the left side is much shorter, cheaper, and cleaner to install. The most important advantage to the stock hose assembly is the bypass valve. Most people don't value this because they really don't understand it. All inside eocs are rated for 2-4 gpm oil flow with pressure drops of about 4-8 psi. When you rev the engine to 6000 rpm the oil pump can produce 8-10 gpm and pushing this kind of flow can cause huge pressure drops through the eoc. High pressure drops are actually going to create heat which is the opposite of what we are trying to accomplish. The bypass will maintain a 2-4 gpm flow throught he cooler, regardless of engine rpm, and since the flow is so low, you no longer need the huge lines everyone seems to think they need.

haikun

Hi Tom,

Is there any difference on the cooling capacity between the A01AE and A97EL in regards to water / engine oil capacity (volume / BTU) and secondly do you see any problems with using the A01AE radiator and connect it's TOC to my manual gearbox and use a pump (like the one GM uses in their trans cooling kit) ?

/Hakan

0Tom@Dewitt

A01AE vs A97EL no difference, except the later doesn't have a tranny cooler. You could add a pump and run the manual fluid through but I don't think you'd gain anything from it. It's not like auto tranny fluid which is really a hydraulic system and gets very hot.

GO_BLUE_VETTES

Tom, this is a great thread. I'm interested in dropping my stand-alone oil cooler and going with a A01AE so I can also add the TOC. I've hit 280F several times on the track (w/ high ambient) in my C5 Z06...

Pretty much the same idea as Hakan.

ace996

Bringing up an older post...

So has anyone used one of these radiators to cool both the engine oil and the manual transmission fluid? I'm needing to drop my driveline for a clutch job and figure it'd be a great time to take advantage of some "while we're in there" and tackle the cooling mods.
I'm torn between going DRM tranny/diff, the LG tranny/diff, or using a TOC for the manual fluid in a radiator(with EOC which I plan on doing anyway).

Any results?
Thanks,
TomK

GS1000FF

I have just successfully installed the A97EL radiator.
No major issues during installation, that is, a perfect fit!

Now my problem, I can't figure out how to get the hoose assembly (898 the C6 factory type) in there?

Anyone who have done it and how did you do?

Can it be so that it should have gone in before I installed the radiator, it's very tight arount the engine mounts?

Please advice

All the best
Ralph

0Randy@DRM

Hakan,
We have always mounted the tranny and diff coolers in the back end of the car. The C6 sence it already has lines going to the front of the car it makes more sence. But on a C5 running lines up to the front is kinda crazy. On racecars that we build here we run power steering to the other cooler in the radiator, but with your C5Z has a pretty good PS cooler already.

I can help with lines, fitting and pump.

Randy

Pumba

Hakan,

If you want to cool your manual transmission and your differential, here is what I would suggest:






No long lines!

No noisy electric motors!

No having to remember to turn your pumps on!

John Dingman

The best way to do this is to remove the motor mount bolts on the driverside and raise the motor up slightly enough to get the hose assembly in there.

GS1000FF

Thanks for your quick reply, I'll try that

Regards
Ralph

haikun

I had to take my headers off on the left side (C5 Z06, the batwing pan was in the way :-( ), then it was somewhat "easy" to get the lines in, looked at the option of raising the engine but tried this first and i worked. (not sure how much you can raise the engine, pretty tight in the rear).

/Hakan