Getting ready to Track my Z06...newbie questions..
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Mechanicsburg PA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting ready to Track my Z06...newbie questions..
Ok, coming from the BMW world, we talk about "ride height" to setup a track car. A place to start anyway. Typically measured from center of wheel to lip of fender.
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
#2
Melting Slicks
275 is pretty narrow for a rear tire on a vette, but if you can control your right foot why not!
I take it you've done HPDE's before, but this is your first in a vette?
I take it you've done HPDE's before, but this is your first in a vette?
#3
Drifting
I run 275 hoosiers on my car. It's not bad. Less weight than the 315s too.
Welcome to Corvette! Another thing you can do is toe your rear wheels in a little. 1/8 total is enough. That way, when the rear squats under acceleration, the wheels will be straight and you will get good drive off the corner, rather than oversteer. Not a good alignment for the street because of tire wear, but for track it works. Also depends on your bushings. If they are poly or spherical (metal) you can get away with less camber and toe.
Ride height is generally measured on the Corvette C5 at the jacking points. Likewise rake. The front of the car should be 1/4" lower than the rear to maintain the stock rake. Remember that these cars are bottom breathers, so they have significant upforce on the nose at speed. The rake helps counteract that and allows you reasonable turn in even at 130+.
Good luck and run clean!
Welcome to Corvette! Another thing you can do is toe your rear wheels in a little. 1/8 total is enough. That way, when the rear squats under acceleration, the wheels will be straight and you will get good drive off the corner, rather than oversteer. Not a good alignment for the street because of tire wear, but for track it works. Also depends on your bushings. If they are poly or spherical (metal) you can get away with less camber and toe.
Ride height is generally measured on the Corvette C5 at the jacking points. Likewise rake. The front of the car should be 1/4" lower than the rear to maintain the stock rake. Remember that these cars are bottom breathers, so they have significant upforce on the nose at speed. The rake helps counteract that and allows you reasonable turn in even at 130+.
Good luck and run clean!
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
and if you HAVE those 275s use them up.
sounds like you have some seat time already, so thottle modulation out of corners should not be new to you
and WELCOME
#5
Race Director
The reason you don't see consistent numbers is that every car is different. You want to leave it a stock ride height, or lower it slightly on the stock adjusters. I usually lower them all the maximum that all of them can turn (ie, if one of them will only turn 1/4 turn, then that's all you should turn any of them). Lowering non-symetrically (without scales) or cutting the adjusters will only cause problems.
I'd forget the ride height, and concentrate on a decent alignment. Also, those tires will be fine. You are going to have sooooo much more oversteer than you are used to (a good thing, once you master it), that no tire will give you the same sensation that your BMW's did. Putting your foot-to-the-floor at apex just doesn't happen in a Vette. Just too much torque......it's not a design flaw, just the physics of having big-bore torque.
I'd forget the ride height, and concentrate on a decent alignment. Also, those tires will be fine. You are going to have sooooo much more oversteer than you are used to (a good thing, once you master it), that no tire will give you the same sensation that your BMW's did. Putting your foot-to-the-floor at apex just doesn't happen in a Vette. Just too much torque......it's not a design flaw, just the physics of having big-bore torque.
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,078
Received 8,919 Likes
on
5,328 Posts
Ok, coming from the BMW world, we talk about "ride height" to setup a track car. A place to start anyway. Typically measured from center of wheel to lip of fender.
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
Bill
#7
Le Mans Master
Ok, coming from the BMW world, we talk about "ride height" to setup a track car. A place to start anyway. Typically measured from center of wheel to lip of fender.
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
I've seen some posts(and I'm continuing to read)about "1" less than stock". But I've yet to see any hard numbers? I'll continue to look, but it's nice to have a starting point.
Secondly, everyone seems to be running HUGE rear rubber with these cars. I'm used to 235 RA1's! Anyway, I have access to a LOT of 275-35-18's Koni Challenge Hoosiers with 1-2 heat cycles on them. How bad will these be running a square setup on my C5 Z06? I know they take a few laps to heat up but it appears these cars have an oversteer problem on corner exit and folks are using large rubber in the rear to compensate a touch. I'm not looking to plant my foot on the apex...so don't get me wrong!!
And howdy to all.....hopefully, I'll get to meet a few folks as we(myself and some buds)visit some tracks in the NE.
Thanks!
Don
Let me be prefectly clear....FREE (or very cheap) tires beat ANY combination of expensive, wide, big name, or high grip tires....period! JMHO
#9
Le Mans Master
#10
Race Director
tire test after tire test has shown that width alone does not increase contact patch or ultimate grip in many cases.........a good sticky tire, combined with good throttle control, will give great results, fast laps, and a great learning opportunity.
#11
i see no reason why 275 all around would not work. make sure that you set the rake of the car correctly for a different wheel/tire setup than stock
common wisdom for HPDE cars seems to be 3/4 to 1" lower than stock. honestly, I did not notice any difference when I lowered the car.
common wisdom for HPDE cars seems to be 3/4 to 1" lower than stock. honestly, I did not notice any difference when I lowered the car.
#17
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
Welcome to this side. With a strut car like the BMW, you have different dynamics than a car with uper and lower control arms (LCA) like a Corvette of Ferrari. Over lowering can make it handle worse because the roll centers get messed up. The proper ride height is when the lower control arms are parallel or just slightly angled down. To measure the ride height, I use a simple tool that you slide in between the ground and the frame of the car:
We have a really good selection of other setup tools in the "general" section of our site as well.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php?cPath=25
We have a really good selection of other setup tools in the "general" section of our site as well.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php?cPath=25
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Mechanicsburg PA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions/comments guys(and gals if we have any) And thanks for the welcome. I've admired the Vette for a long time now(actually had 2 a LONG time ago)and just decided it's a good time to buy.
So, I'll just leave the ride height alone, do my track alignment and a quick corner balance and we'll go play a tad and see what happens. I'm REALLY excited to pilot this thing around a course somewhere...prolly be Summit main shortly. And yes, I do already have/drive a car that requires throttle control. A 95M3 turbo track car with all the junk, weighs about 2820 and has 460whp. Try that with 235's on the rear...you'll learn throttle control and how to track out right to the curbs!!
Point taken on the wider tire/traction debate. I agree with forward bite but I think the big difference comes via slip angle(cornering). Ok, so my "cheap" 275 hoosiers I'll try first. It's so liberating going to a car that can run big rubber..geez, I actually have CHOICES. In E36M3 land, you either run 235's or you pull fenders and squeeze 255's on. Otherwise you widebody and run 275's!!
Next thing is going to be shocks/springs investigation!! Then I gotta do a bolt-in cage and proper seats.
Thanks for the help and direction!!
Don
So, I'll just leave the ride height alone, do my track alignment and a quick corner balance and we'll go play a tad and see what happens. I'm REALLY excited to pilot this thing around a course somewhere...prolly be Summit main shortly. And yes, I do already have/drive a car that requires throttle control. A 95M3 turbo track car with all the junk, weighs about 2820 and has 460whp. Try that with 235's on the rear...you'll learn throttle control and how to track out right to the curbs!!
Point taken on the wider tire/traction debate. I agree with forward bite but I think the big difference comes via slip angle(cornering). Ok, so my "cheap" 275 hoosiers I'll try first. It's so liberating going to a car that can run big rubber..geez, I actually have CHOICES. In E36M3 land, you either run 235's or you pull fenders and squeeze 255's on. Otherwise you widebody and run 275's!!
Next thing is going to be shocks/springs investigation!! Then I gotta do a bolt-in cage and proper seats.
Thanks for the help and direction!!
Don
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Mechanicsburg PA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to this side. With a strut car like the BMW, you have different dynamics than a car with uper and lower control arms (LCA) like a Corvette of Ferrari. Over lowering can make it handle worse because the roll centers get messed up. The proper ride height is when the lower control arms are parallel or just slightly angled down. To measure the ride height, I use a simple tool that you slide in between the ground and the frame of the car:
We have a really good selection of other setup tools in the "general" section of our site as well.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php?cPath=25
We have a really good selection of other setup tools in the "general" section of our site as well.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/index.php?cPath=25
Thanks!!
Don