LS3 Batwing oil pan part # ??
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,085
Received 8,926 Likes
on
5,332 Posts
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
I think so. But a friend of mine has an LS3 with the older or normal LS3 oil pan and that is NOT a bat wing.
Guy put on an oil cooler and is getting into tracking his car, and we know about those high speed left handed sweepers and LS motors.
Guy put on an oil cooler and is getting into tracking his car, and we know about those high speed left handed sweepers and LS motors.
#9
Pro
Pan
Raft is correct with his comment. It will fit a C5 with a LS3/L92 with headers.
The "bat wing" for early LS1's is a one piece pan and the later LS1 and LS6 pan is a two piece pan. The LS3 "bat wing" is a special GM Racing piece which has different baffling inside. I have been looking for one but it is a hard piece to find. It is also very expensive and not for the average user.
If any see's this I am interested in one of the LS3 "bat wings"!
Hope this helps!
Don
The "bat wing" for early LS1's is a one piece pan and the later LS1 and LS6 pan is a two piece pan. The LS3 "bat wing" is a special GM Racing piece which has different baffling inside. I have been looking for one but it is a hard piece to find. It is also very expensive and not for the average user.
If any see's this I am interested in one of the LS3 "bat wings"!
Hope this helps!
Don
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
My friend found a NEW LS3 batwing for $15-$1600 . But we were able to find a one time use one for $1,000
he does track his LS3 C6 and has put an oil cooler on. But could not afford a whole dry sump system.
he does track his LS3 C6 and has put an oil cooler on. But could not afford a whole dry sump system.
#11
Melting Slicks
The pan kept my car alive, but did nothing for the oil consumption, temperature, puking into the intake, and the oil pressure still dropped as the race went on...to dangerously low levels.
After a full year and half with this LS3, I don't recommend anything other than a full-blown dry sump system. It's worth it. You're going to spend $2K for the bat-pan and install; whereas you'll spend $5K for a full dry sump system that apparently works infinitely better (according to my fellow LS3 racers).
Spend the extra $$ and get the sump!!!!!!!!!
After a full year and half with this LS3, I don't recommend anything other than a full-blown dry sump system. It's worth it. You're going to spend $2K for the bat-pan and install; whereas you'll spend $5K for a full dry sump system that apparently works infinitely better (according to my fellow LS3 racers).
Spend the extra $$ and get the sump!!!!!!!!!
#12
Former Vendor
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's an interesting take. There was a guy on here several years ago, or maybe ls1tech, doing an LS swap and because the batwing pan he had wouldn't fit in the car, he modified it by cutting the sides off and welding flat alum. plates in their place.
#13
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: Birmingham AL
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fred
#15
Former Vendor
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them? These track-run LS engines tend to pool the oil in the top end of the motor at high RPM. Smith Brothers makes pushrods w/ restrictors designed specifically to limit this pooling. I used to have half a Prestone jug's worth of oil out my overflow/catch-can after 2-3 sessions. Now I have maybe an ounce or 2 after a full weekend. Also eliminated starvation at the pickup and subsequent low oil pressure messages after hard braking or cornering. Just a thought...
Fred
Fred
#16
Drifting
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them? These track-run LS engines tend to pool the oil in the top end of the motor at high RPM. Smith Brothers makes pushrods w/ restrictors designed specifically to limit this pooling. I used to have half a Prestone jug's worth of oil out my overflow/catch-can after 2-3 sessions. Now I have maybe an ounce or 2 after a full weekend. Also eliminated starvation at the pickup and subsequent low oil pressure messages after hard braking or cornering. Just a thought...
Fred
Fred
#17
Racer
Out of curiosity, what evidence is there to support the theory that too much oil is pooling in the heads, relative to other cam-in-block V8s? Or is it a common problem with all SBCs?
#18
Melting Slicks
I put a catch can on my car from the top of the head to the PCV valve line and then to the side of the intake tube. After every session (normally 20 minutes), I have to empty the can - a full .5 of a quart! Apparently the dry sump solves this issue.
#19
Racer
You mean other than the fact that about 1/2 a quart of oil will get puked into the intake?
I put a catch can on my car from the top of the head to the PCV valve line and then to the side of the intake tube. After every session (normally 20 minutes), I have to empty the can - a full .5 of a quart! Apparently the dry sump solves this issue.
I put a catch can on my car from the top of the head to the PCV valve line and then to the side of the intake tube. After every session (normally 20 minutes), I have to empty the can - a full .5 of a quart! Apparently the dry sump solves this issue.
Why vent the valve covers instead of the valley cover? The later should help oil starvation, at least in theory. Venting the valve covers causes blow-by gases to try to escape via the same channels as oil is using to make its way back into the sump, so its thought that doing so keeps more oil up in the heads. How much this actually affects anything I can't say.
Aside from valve cover-venting setups, I don't see how a dry sump could remove oil from the heads unless it had scavenge pumps up there.
Kevin at crank-scrapers.com pointed me towards these, and other similar products:
http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pu.../Exa-Pump.html
The idea is that you scavenge oil from places where its puddling and pump it back into the pickup area. You could have a pump on each valve cover, or one on each wing of the pan. The two-piece batwing pans might allow an installation without having to remove the upper pan.
That doesn't help T1 racers of course, and more oil in the pan under hard cornering also means more aeration.
#20
Melting Slicks
You're kidding right?! Oh, did I mention that not only was the catch can full, but the engine also eats another 1/2 a quart or more. So basically every time I go out, I have to add another quart. In a full 30 minute race, I lose 2 full quarts - 1.5 to the engine and .5 to the can. Again, the dry sump is supposed to cure it.