RedLS1GTO

After an oil pressure scare that turned out to be a bad pressure sending unit at Summit Point I have pretty much decided to do whatever I can to protect my engine from an oil standpoint. It is an LT-4 block 383 with a Canton oil cooler already installed via the sandwich adapter that goes between the block and the filter. If I add an accusump to this setup, where should I run it from? Should I "T" into the return line from the cooler or go from somewhere else?? Thanks as always!
-Bryan

RedLS1GTO

I forgot to type my other few questions!

As far as the valves go, does anybody have any recomendations? The car is 99% track use and with the pump that is in it now usually stays above 50psi hot. I have glanced at the gauge under braking and it drops pretty drastically.

Also, how big would you guys say I need to go? I know obviously that the bigger the better, but is a 3qt really needed? I am on a pretty tight budget, but want to do what I need to do to protect the motor.

Mojave

If you're looking for an Accusump for cheap, I have one that's never been used for sale. I think it's the 3 quart, but I'll have to check (pretty sure). Currently has a manual valve installed.

RedLS1GTO

I most certainly am! How much shipped to 23325??

Mojave

PM sent.

RedLS1GTO

OK... so now I bought one... but nobody has any lessons learned on where to tap in????

Racin Time

Look for a hole with a plug in it on the side of the block just above the oil filter. If your block has this factory hole you should be able to remove the plug allowing you to connect directly into the oil galley to your oil accumulator.

Kubs

I am putting an accusump in my L98. Is there a possibility that hole is in my block too, or just the LTX blocks?

Racin Time

Not all blocks may have a hole with a plug in it. You will need to inspect your block. If you don't find one at this location you might check with a machine shop that is familiar with your type of block and see if they are aware of other openings to the oil galley.

imp zog

If there is no hole, you can configure it like I did on my LS6, and attach it from a
"T" on the oil cooler return line, so that it feeds into the adapter block return. You will need a check valve on the oil cooler line just before the T so that a pressure drop does not allow the oil to flow back thru the cooler.

Kubs

I have a sandwich adapter like this one, that has a thermostat in it. I dont think the return line is blocked, but if I tap into it, will the accusump have trouble getting pressure at startup if the inlet line is blocked? Or will the whole system get pressurized even through the return line?

imp zog

I have the Lingenfelter adapter block that fits on the oil temp port of the LS6, but the concept is similar in that you have oil out to the cooler, and a return line coming back in such that the cooled oil then gets fed into the motor. The check valve only prevents the pressurized oil from the accusump from going the wrong way when there is a drop in oil pressure, as you want that to go into the motor, and not back thru the oil cooler in the wrong direction.

Here's an accusump pdf that contains a diagram of what I'm trying to describe: http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf, it contains installation instructions for both styles of connections (adapter block to oil cooler, and direct engine oil passage)

Kubs

I understand that, but my adapter restricts flow OUT until a certain temp. Im worried that when I turn the car on and the electronic valve starts the preoiling, that all 3 quarts will be dumped into the engine and have to stay there until the oil is up to temp to flow out the adapter, through the cooler and back to the accumulator. OR, at startup will the oil flow back to the accumulator through the INLET of the adapter (backwards through the return line) like Im hoping.

imp zog

Ah, I see what you are saying... with a manual valve on the accusump, you can control when the valve is open on the accusump. I have a "manual" electric valve on mine, which I have wired to a dash switch, so I can control when it is open for discharge and recharge, as opposed to the automatic pressure triggered valves. I open the valve for a few seconds to put some oil in the motor, close it and start the car and then wait for the oil pressure to build up before I re-open the valve for track operation. Then, before coming off the track, I bring the revs up to fill the tank as much as possible, and then close it before coming in. It takes a bit of remembering to make sure that all that gets done properly, but I trust it more than the automatic pressure valves that like to stop working without your knowledge (that is, until it's too late!).