front spring rate?
07-08-2009, 04:40 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
front spring rate?
hello racers. cool forum, lots of info from real worldstuff. i have an 85 non z51 coupe a4. the front spring is FJY, and the rear is a NYR. what are the rates for these. i installed bilstien hd, complete poly kit and new rear wheel berings. is anyone running these rates on there car and are they any good or look at another set of springs. its a weekend car for fun and some ax, no open track. but i do race to win. thanks
07-08-2009, 09:03 PM
#2
Drifting
Here is a link to Hib Halversons's chart on everything you wanted to know about C4 spring rates etc.
http://vettenet.org/susp_chart.html
Try this link is other one does not work:
http://www.idavette.net/susp_chart.htm
http://vettenet.org/susp_chart.html
Try this link is other one does not work:
http://www.idavette.net/susp_chart.htm
Last edited by UstaB-GS549; 07-08-2009 at 09:07 PM.
07-09-2009, 08:45 AM
#3
Safety Car
I would leave the springs on your car alone if you're just driving on the street. I've got an '85 with the Z51 bars and standard springs. It's a little harsh for the street.
Hyperco is now making the Corvette Challenge springs and I'm going to those since my '85 is just for the track at this point. I'm sure they're going to be way to stiff for the street though.
Richard Newton
Hyperco is now making the Corvette Challenge springs and I'm going to those since my '85 is just for the track at this point. I'm sure they're going to be way to stiff for the street though.
Richard Newton
07-09-2009, 08:54 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
If you want to be competitive, you need to run the car in a stock class, which means get a stock air filter setup and a TB with the MAF screen back in it.
Then get the stuff to upgrade to Z51 (see the Halverson chart), a set of shocks and sticky tires, align it, and you are there...
Going to non-stock stuff will put you in stree prepared where you will get your head handed to you by a seriously set up car. The Z51 stuff and a set of shocks are about as stiff as you want to go on the street anyway, so you can have an enjoyable ride on the street and be competitive in autocross, the best of both worlds.
Then get the stuff to upgrade to Z51 (see the Halverson chart), a set of shocks and sticky tires, align it, and you are there...
Going to non-stock stuff will put you in stree prepared where you will get your head handed to you by a seriously set up car. The Z51 stuff and a set of shocks are about as stiff as you want to go on the street anyway, so you can have an enjoyable ride on the street and be competitive in autocross, the best of both worlds.
07-09-2009, 11:52 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
how do they know how modified your car is, and what do they check. not looking to cheat but like to be close. know what i meen. i raced mx for 28 yrs injury put me in a car. i miss racing
07-09-2009, 05:02 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
There is a protest procedure, anyone can protest anything that they want, and often there is an "open hood" rule in impound after you run. The modded air filter housing would stick out like a sore thumb.
The things that you need to make your car measureably faster stick out like a sore thumb. Specifically, with your car one thing that would make it a lot faster is more negative camber in the front end. Easily done if you put in a set of illegal front lower control arm bushings. Guaranteed speed. But if anybody shows up with more than 3/4's of a degree of negative camber in the front end of a C4, there will be folks waving $20 bills to get in line to protest you. You won't get away with it. Bond is only required if you are taking off heads or require a major teardown. If somebody thinks you have done something and are willing to pony up $20, your'e toast.
Keep the car legal and learn to drive. It is a lot more satisfying to win when you know you are legal and you beat somebody you know is cheating. If you are cheating and win, then you don't know if you were better, you only know you cheated and you won.
The things that you need to make your car measureably faster stick out like a sore thumb. Specifically, with your car one thing that would make it a lot faster is more negative camber in the front end. Easily done if you put in a set of illegal front lower control arm bushings. Guaranteed speed. But if anybody shows up with more than 3/4's of a degree of negative camber in the front end of a C4, there will be folks waving $20 bills to get in line to protest you. You won't get away with it. Bond is only required if you are taking off heads or require a major teardown. If somebody thinks you have done something and are willing to pony up $20, your'e toast.
Keep the car legal and learn to drive. It is a lot more satisfying to win when you know you are legal and you beat somebody you know is cheating. If you are cheating and win, then you don't know if you were better, you only know you cheated and you won.
07-10-2009, 08:37 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
I prefer the stick, but in your car the A4 is competitive. No you can't build the tranny or put in a shift kit, but you can make sure it shifts firmly with the adjustment provided. If you are rebuiding a tranny, you can make sure the clutch pack materials are of top quality 
If you set the tranny up to shift too firmly it will tend to break the back end loose on upshifts.
And stay away from loose T/C's, they make the car harder to drive, the stock converter is better from that standpoint.
If you set the tranny up to shift too firmly it will tend to break the back end loose on upshifts.
And stay away from loose T/C's, they make the car harder to drive, the stock converter is better from that standpoint.
07-10-2009, 12:02 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
found scca classes and rules lastnite. for whatever reason it would not load it before. street prepared to competitive?. i wanna race in a class thats fast, competitive among drivers not bank accounts. its a little awkward making the transition from bike to car. good advise is appreciated. 
07-10-2009, 03:00 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
I missed that you have a poly kit in the car. That puts you into street prepared anyway, but if you get a set of A-arms with rubber bushings in them you can get back to a stock class.
The problem with your car in SP is that you have to run against the Evo's and a well set up Evo will clean your clock. Moreover, to be even close to competitive you will need an LT6 engine with a six speed. Been there and done that, and my co-driver who built the car to the limit of the SP rules found that the car wasn't competitive with the automatic. If he was going to keep running it he was thinking about changing to a 6 speed, and he worked for hydramatic, so that was a tough pill for him to swallow. A blueprinted LT6 will dyno at 400 hp at the flywheel, which is a heck of alot more than you can get out of a blueprinted L98, no matter what intake you put on it. The L98 cam just doesn't deliver. We built an 84 with an LT6 because it was the lightest year of C4's and did everything that was allowed, and it still wasn't enough. If you look at the results at the nationals, very few fast people are running C4's in BSP. They have moved on to other classes because the car isn't competitive anymore.
Secondly, building a BSP car is an expensive proposition if you are going to go to the limit of the rules, and the car will be a race car, and not something that you could or would want to drive on the street when you are done. Look at everything in the rulebook that you are allowed to do, and, to be competitive, you have to do it. So that means a blueprinted LT6 engine, a 6 speed, a change to the Dana 44 diff, full poly suspension, a front frame brace, 315's all around, 84 Z51 springs (which ride like a rock on the street), headers and cat back exhaust, removal of the A/C system and so forth. To really build one right you have to know about all there is to know about C4's so you can pick and choose every component from each year to get the best parts to as fast as you can, and then it won't be enough to beat the Evo's...
In A stock your car is a lot more competitive, you will have a lot more fun, almost as much grip, and spend a lot less, as well as have a car that you can drive on the street...
If you are looking to go faster that's cool, but frankly you can go faster with a C5Z in supuer stock and it probably won't cost you any more in the long run than a BSP C4.
The problem with your car in SP is that you have to run against the Evo's and a well set up Evo will clean your clock. Moreover, to be even close to competitive you will need an LT6 engine with a six speed. Been there and done that, and my co-driver who built the car to the limit of the SP rules found that the car wasn't competitive with the automatic. If he was going to keep running it he was thinking about changing to a 6 speed, and he worked for hydramatic, so that was a tough pill for him to swallow. A blueprinted LT6 will dyno at 400 hp at the flywheel, which is a heck of alot more than you can get out of a blueprinted L98, no matter what intake you put on it. The L98 cam just doesn't deliver. We built an 84 with an LT6 because it was the lightest year of C4's and did everything that was allowed, and it still wasn't enough. If you look at the results at the nationals, very few fast people are running C4's in BSP. They have moved on to other classes because the car isn't competitive anymore.
Secondly, building a BSP car is an expensive proposition if you are going to go to the limit of the rules, and the car will be a race car, and not something that you could or would want to drive on the street when you are done. Look at everything in the rulebook that you are allowed to do, and, to be competitive, you have to do it. So that means a blueprinted LT6 engine, a 6 speed, a change to the Dana 44 diff, full poly suspension, a front frame brace, 315's all around, 84 Z51 springs (which ride like a rock on the street), headers and cat back exhaust, removal of the A/C system and so forth. To really build one right you have to know about all there is to know about C4's so you can pick and choose every component from each year to get the best parts to as fast as you can, and then it won't be enough to beat the Evo's...
In A stock your car is a lot more competitive, you will have a lot more fun, almost as much grip, and spend a lot less, as well as have a car that you can drive on the street...
If you are looking to go faster that's cool, but frankly you can go faster with a C5Z in supuer stock and it probably won't cost you any more in the long run than a BSP C4.
07-10-2009, 04:53 PM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
wow, i thought i was bringing more to the table than that, the reason for that was i watched a woman in a 85 a4 street prepared run an 56 second time the kid on a 125 shifter kart ran a 54 and his buddy also in a 125 kart ran a 57. i whatched her lay waste to 911's, m3's, everthing even zo6's and evo's. so i was under the impression i could make it happen in my car. and no it wasnt that danica patrick chic lol. but she could drive, definitly.
07-10-2009, 06:24 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Assuming you are in SoCal, you probably saw Rita Wilsey, and yes she can drive. She won the mens open class in BSP at the 2005 nationals, but that was four years ago and the Corvettes are obsolete in BSP now.....
07-12-2009, 04:23 PM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Obsolete dont sound good solo. would an intermediate classed driver get smoked in one?. i dont have the cash for an 04 c5 zo6 rite now. which direction would you go. thanks for the advice too
07-12-2009, 10:24 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
I missed that you have a poly kit in the car. That puts you into street prepared anyway, but if you get a set of A-arms with rubber bushings in them you can get back to a stock class.
The problem with your car in SP is that you have to run against the Evo's and a well set up Evo will clean your clock. Moreover, to be even close to competitive you will need an LT6 engine with a six speed. Been there and done that, and my co-driver who built the car to the limit of the SP rules found that the car wasn't competitive with the automatic. If he was going to keep running it he was thinking about changing to a 6 speed, and he worked for hydramatic, so that was a tough pill for him to swallow. A blueprinted LT6 will dyno at 400 hp at the flywheel, which is a heck of alot more than you can get out of a blueprinted L98, no matter what intake you put on it. The L98 cam just doesn't deliver. We built an 84 with an LT6 because it was the lightest year of C4's and did everything that was allowed, and it still wasn't enough. If you look at the results at the nationals, very few fast people are running C4's in BSP. They have moved on to other classes because the car isn't competitive anymore.
Secondly, building a BSP car is an expensive proposition if you are going to go to the limit of the rules, and the car will be a race car, and not something that you could or would want to drive on the street when you are done. Look at everything in the rulebook that you are allowed to do, and, to be competitive, you have to do it. So that means a blueprinted LT6 engine, a 6 speed, a change to the Dana 44 diff, full poly suspension, a front frame brace, 315's all around, 84 Z51 springs (which ride like a rock on the street), headers and cat back exhaust, removal of the A/C system and so forth. To really build one right you have to know about all there is to know about C4's so you can pick and choose every component from each year to get the best parts to as fast as you can, and then it won't be enough to beat the Evo's...
In A stock your car is a lot more competitive, you will have a lot more fun, almost as much grip, and spend a lot less, as well as have a car that you can drive on the street...
If you are looking to go faster that's cool, but frankly you can go faster with a C5Z in supuer stock and it probably won't cost you any more in the long run than a BSP C4.
The problem with your car in SP is that you have to run against the Evo's and a well set up Evo will clean your clock. Moreover, to be even close to competitive you will need an LT6 engine with a six speed. Been there and done that, and my co-driver who built the car to the limit of the SP rules found that the car wasn't competitive with the automatic. If he was going to keep running it he was thinking about changing to a 6 speed, and he worked for hydramatic, so that was a tough pill for him to swallow. A blueprinted LT6 will dyno at 400 hp at the flywheel, which is a heck of alot more than you can get out of a blueprinted L98, no matter what intake you put on it. The L98 cam just doesn't deliver. We built an 84 with an LT6 because it was the lightest year of C4's and did everything that was allowed, and it still wasn't enough. If you look at the results at the nationals, very few fast people are running C4's in BSP. They have moved on to other classes because the car isn't competitive anymore.
Secondly, building a BSP car is an expensive proposition if you are going to go to the limit of the rules, and the car will be a race car, and not something that you could or would want to drive on the street when you are done. Look at everything in the rulebook that you are allowed to do, and, to be competitive, you have to do it. So that means a blueprinted LT6 engine, a 6 speed, a change to the Dana 44 diff, full poly suspension, a front frame brace, 315's all around, 84 Z51 springs (which ride like a rock on the street), headers and cat back exhaust, removal of the A/C system and so forth. To really build one right you have to know about all there is to know about C4's so you can pick and choose every component from each year to get the best parts to as fast as you can, and then it won't be enough to beat the Evo's...
In A stock your car is a lot more competitive, you will have a lot more fun, almost as much grip, and spend a lot less, as well as have a car that you can drive on the street...
If you are looking to go faster that's cool, but frankly you can go faster with a C5Z in supuer stock and it probably won't cost you any more in the long run than a BSP C4.
