Moton Clup Sport Coil-overs: Official Thread
#1
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Moton Clup Sport Coil-overs: Official Thread
There's not much information on the Moton Club Sport Double-adjustable Coil-overs on this forum. There are, however, several forum members that have confessed to using them. Also, the Katech Club Sport Z06 uses these shocks.
Here's what I've learned: They fronts use the standard lower T-bar shock mount; the rears use the standard lower clevis mount. The bad news is that the upper shock mounts are pin-tops. However, the HardbarUSA upper spherical shock mounts may work here (they can only be used on 10mm pin-tops; I haven't confirmed that the Moton CS's have a 10mm pin-top.)
Here's what I like to know: What spring rates are used? Also, what settings work with those springs: the Motons have only 7 settings for both compression and rebound. I'll bet that the LG 700 lbs/in front and 600 lbs/in rear spring rates are popular. How about dual-rate springs ala the HardbarUSA Penske set-ups?
Here's what I've learned: They fronts use the standard lower T-bar shock mount; the rears use the standard lower clevis mount. The bad news is that the upper shock mounts are pin-tops. However, the HardbarUSA upper spherical shock mounts may work here (they can only be used on 10mm pin-tops; I haven't confirmed that the Moton CS's have a 10mm pin-top.)
Here's what I like to know: What spring rates are used? Also, what settings work with those springs: the Motons have only 7 settings for both compression and rebound. I'll bet that the LG 700 lbs/in front and 600 lbs/in rear spring rates are popular. How about dual-rate springs ala the HardbarUSA Penske set-ups?
#2
Burning Brakes
In my C5Z, I'm using 800lb in front, 600lb in rear. As for the settings on the shocks.. that's up to you primarily and how you want the car to feel. I just told the shop to do what I wanted.
For the mounting of the remote reservoirs, I put the fronts next to the front intake where you can see them poking from under the hood when you lift the hood. (Pretty standard area). And for the rear, since I got too much junk everywhere, I mounted them where the lower control arms sit, as theres enough room in the fork of the A-arm area of the lower subframe for them.
Make sure to get the springs to stay with the top hat, or else you'll chip the collar'd part of the top hat. I didn't get dual rate spring setup, nor a modified top mount. There's a few vettes running moton clubsports out at MSR@Cresson as well, and I haven't heard of any problems from them.
For the mounting of the remote reservoirs, I put the fronts next to the front intake where you can see them poking from under the hood when you lift the hood. (Pretty standard area). And for the rear, since I got too much junk everywhere, I mounted them where the lower control arms sit, as theres enough room in the fork of the A-arm area of the lower subframe for them.
Make sure to get the springs to stay with the top hat, or else you'll chip the collar'd part of the top hat. I didn't get dual rate spring setup, nor a modified top mount. There's a few vettes running moton clubsports out at MSR@Cresson as well, and I haven't heard of any problems from them.
Last edited by OKsweetrides; 07-19-2009 at 12:33 PM.
#3
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Here is how the Penske cans are mounted on my car. The Joe's mounts are the best I have seen. They are low profile (and the have a roll bar version as well), super fast release with just a pin pull and are soft on the cans. The Moton cans are very similar in size.
Last edited by ghoffman; 07-19-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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Back to my question on settings: if your at 800 # front, I would be surprised if you shock settings would be in the middle range. Also, these shocks have only 7-settings, so they might not be able to accommodate a very wide range. The bottom line, is I don't know: I'm just trying to raise reasonable questions.
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Let me know the Moton pin top size, I am very confident they will work with our new mounts or can be modded to work. I pulled my fronts yesterday, and the Aurora bearings in my clevis mounts is still very tight and smooth after about a year and a half of hard use. Either way, both mounts dyno and perform the same way. If you find a used set of Motons in good shape, go for it, we service them as well.
I've been trying to verify in these pin-tops are 10mm diameter which is what your upper spherical bearing mounts will work with.
Can these shocks be revalved? I'm thinking I'd like to start with relatively soft springs (like 475/575). If I feel the need for more, I can move up to, say, 650/550. Since my Z51 is a daily driver, I don't think I want to be as stiff as 700/600. [One forum member is running 750/650 and told me that was too stiff for street driving. Another forum member stated that 700/600 is a "bit on the stiff side for daily driving."]
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What is the configuration you are looking at? Are they body up? Remote cannister shocks that are body down suck, the hose is too long because it has to be a long run along the lower control arm and then up. It is much better to have the body up, i.e. mounted to the frame so that the hose is properly routed.
Clevis version:
Pin top version
Yes, the Moton's are very easy to revalve. If you want to do it yourself, you will need some special tools, but that really is NBD. The most expensive tool, is a nitrogen cylinder and regulator. I consider this one of my most useful tools anyway, I use it for all my tires as well as the shocks. It is alot easier to bring this to the car or tractor than it is to drag the compressor hose out to fill my wife's tire at 0700 before work.
Roy Benedetti kinda invented this, and I am glad he did!
Clevis version:
Pin top version
Yes, the Moton's are very easy to revalve. If you want to do it yourself, you will need some special tools, but that really is NBD. The most expensive tool, is a nitrogen cylinder and regulator. I consider this one of my most useful tools anyway, I use it for all my tires as well as the shocks. It is alot easier to bring this to the car or tractor than it is to drag the compressor hose out to fill my wife's tire at 0700 before work.
Roy Benedetti kinda invented this, and I am glad he did!
Last edited by ghoffman; 07-20-2009 at 08:22 AM.
#7
Burning Brakes
I personally like the 800/600 setup. Yes, it's quite stiff, but then again I'm on the young age side . As for settings, I'll inquire next time as to what settings they are on, I have no idea how to check it as I don't have a zero on it that I know of (?)
Extrapolating a bit more, it's stiff, but smooth. It's night and day difference from the full T1 suspension I ran for a lil while. The Moton CS's are wicked fast reacting and I feel significantly more stimuli. I would say the full T1 set would be akin to downhill GS skiing with cold legs, and the Moton's would be with your legs more dynamic and warmed up. Sorry for the strange analogy.
Further, Silverton, you might wanna check out what some of the Viper guys are doing with their Moton CS's for an idea as to how to a get a more street oriented ride.
Extrapolating a bit more, it's stiff, but smooth. It's night and day difference from the full T1 suspension I ran for a lil while. The Moton CS's are wicked fast reacting and I feel significantly more stimuli. I would say the full T1 set would be akin to downhill GS skiing with cold legs, and the Moton's would be with your legs more dynamic and warmed up. Sorry for the strange analogy.
Further, Silverton, you might wanna check out what some of the Viper guys are doing with their Moton CS's for an idea as to how to a get a more street oriented ride.
#8
Burning Brakes
I'm using the Moton Clubsports with 900 pound front and 700 pound rear springs on my '07 Z06. I forget exactly what settings I use for compression and rebound but I think they are in the 4 and 5 range out of 7. The car is definately stiff on the street but I put more track miles on it than street miles. Seems to work OK on the track but since these are the only springs I've used I really can't say if using less stiff springs would work better or not.
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What is the configuration you are looking at? Are they body up? Remote cannister shocks that are body down suck, the hose is too long because it has to be a long run along the lower control arm and then up. It is much better to have the body up, i.e. mounted to the frame so that the hose is properly routed.
Yes, the Moton's are very easy to revalve.
Yes, the Moton's are very easy to revalve.
Are they easy to re-valve for 475 # front, 575 # rear springs? Oh, and do you know what length springs they take? I would think that they would not need re-valving for 700/600 # springs.
Last edited by Silverton; 07-20-2009 at 07:14 PM.
#10
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The good news is that the Moton's have a 12mm shaft, which is stiffer than other shocks. The bad news is the spherical upper mounts from HardbarUSA won't fit.
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I'll revive this ... See if anyone has more info on the settings they use with what springs. I have 800#f and 700#r and mine are currently set on 3 or 4 (need to check) and they feel great. Will be track testing these in a couple weeks.