LS1/2/6 Replacement Harmonic Damper?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
LS1/2/6 Replacement Harmonic Damper?
What is recommended for a harmonic balancer replacement for a LS1/6/2? I am pretty sure I want a ARP replacement bolt.
I have a bad one on a C5 - any tips on replacing one?
thanks...
I have a bad one on a C5 - any tips on replacing one?
thanks...
#2
ATI.
Use a GM/Chrysler puller and to install you need a piece of 16mmx2.0 all thread along with some nuts. Normal installer will not work as the threads in the LS cranks are very deep. After it's installed have someone step on the brakes and transmission in 4th gear to help prevent motor from spinning while you torque the bolt. Use assembly lube or silicone under the bolt head and washer.
Use a GM/Chrysler puller and to install you need a piece of 16mmx2.0 all thread along with some nuts. Normal installer will not work as the threads in the LS cranks are very deep. After it's installed have someone step on the brakes and transmission in 4th gear to help prevent motor from spinning while you torque the bolt. Use assembly lube or silicone under the bolt head and washer.
#3
Melting Slicks
#4
Racer
Jeff whatever one you get, make sure you get a pulley with a 3/16 key slot, and get the ATI pin kit and pin that thing. No need for the "torque bolt to 7 million ft/lbs and then stretch it another 1/4 mile" method. I am not a fan of the "bolt torque smooth bore interference fit" on the LS engines.
BTW I've got a pin kit fixture (and maybe even a spare pin or 2) and a crank installer tool. Can bring it to RA next weekend if you want to borrow it.
BTW I've got a pin kit fixture (and maybe even a spare pin or 2) and a crank installer tool. Can bring it to RA next weekend if you want to borrow it.
#5
Race Director
ATI worked with GM racing to develop theres. I'd go with 10% underdrive aluminum, but you MUST key it as the aluminum can "grow" over time, especially if you ever remove/reinstall.
I've run these on several engines. You will likely need a fixed belt tensioner to keep the belt from flying off.
I've run these on several engines. You will likely need a fixed belt tensioner to keep the belt from flying off.
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Jeff whatever one you get, make sure you get a pulley with a 3/16 key slot, and get the ATI pin kit and pin that thing. No need for the "torque bolt to 7 million ft/lbs and then stretch it another 1/4 mile" method. I am not a fan of the "bolt torque smooth bore interference fit" on the LS engines.
BTW I've got a pin kit fixture (and maybe even a spare pin or 2) and a crank installer tool. Can bring it to RA next weekend if you want to borrow it.
BTW I've got a pin kit fixture (and maybe even a spare pin or 2) and a crank installer tool. Can bring it to RA next weekend if you want to borrow it.
please bring to RA if possible - how did the trans swap go this weekend?
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#8
I did this a while ago as part of a timing chain change. Per suggestions from this forum I went with the ATI 10% underdrive and pinned the crank while I was at it. I drilled the crank from under the car on jack stands.
Everything was pretty easy, for a first-time like myself, if you don't force things. I had to drop the pan to heli-coil the temperature sensor block so I dropped the entire front cradle...so I missed out on the wrestling match with the power steering rack, my loss I guess.
Everything was pretty easy, for a first-time like myself, if you don't force things. I had to drop the pan to heli-coil the temperature sensor block so I dropped the entire front cradle...so I missed out on the wrestling match with the power steering rack, my loss I guess.
#9
Racer
Swap went good. Jason got to peek under the M12's skirt (case) and I found a way to ensure that I can beat him in paralyzing his car in the below fashion
Last edited by drivinhard; 08-02-2009 at 08:32 PM.
#10
Race Director
pinning is easy, just drill a hole in the snout of the crank. I have a "kit" as well, but you can literally just drill a hole and it will be fine (you need it as perpendicular to the crank as possible. I just get iron rod from Lowes and cut it to length.
As with anything on this part of the car, getting the steering rack out of the way is the hard part
As with anything on this part of the car, getting the steering rack out of the way is the hard part
#11
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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ATI has a couple of different options 10% or 25% underdrive they also have different hardness of rubber. For a track day/road race car you want the 10% UD with the softer rubber. You will also have to rebuild the balancer every year or two. And as stated above you will want to pin the crank. With all of the extra maintenance you may just want to stick with stock. Just my opinion.
Joel
Joel
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
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This is information that I wish I had a few years ago.
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#18
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#19
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
After you pin damper onto the crank (or in the case of my ATI setup the "collar") - how do you get it off again since at some point I will be back into the engine?