Rob's 73

I went back to the track this weekend with my LS3 418 and could not keep the oil temps down. Once they reached 280 the oil pressure went the other way. I changed the oil to 15-50 M1 from 5-30 while there and regained some pressure. However, I need to fix the oil temps. Short shifting kept the temps under control but It wasn't near as much fun. Right now I have a DeWitts Rad/EOC combo. What I'm thinking is this stand alone cooler

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FL...0/?image=large

I would like to just extend the oil cooler lines to the front of the radiator with some AN to AN adapters. This would allow me to switch back to the Rad/EOC during the winter street driving months. Will this cooler get me 20-30 degrees over the DeWitts combo? If it matters, I am using one of Tom's original adaptor blocks with a 5psi bypass valve and -10AN lines. I also have an 3qt accumsump with 25 psi EPC valve plumbed into the front oil port.

Thoughts?

or how about this cooler

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLD-DB-30417/

I like the side inlet/outlet. I could reduce the -12 AN to -10 AN

spazegun2213

Rob,
what you are talking about is super easy. Grab some AN lines, a few fittings and you will be golden. AN lines/fittings are not hard to work with at all and if you need any help let me know.

As for a cooler, I've only used SETRAB and mocals. I LOVE setrab, and will probably stick with them. I'll have to get the SN off my unit, but it keeps things mighty cool. I only have a stock LS6, and no bypass valves or Accusump.

-Ross

rad_vet

Here is a data point.

Doug Rippie oil cooler mounted in the license plate hole only using parts in the kit.

Before, on a 70 degrees ambient day the oil got to 280 degrees in a 20 minute session.

After, on a 98 degree ambient day the oil got to 260 degrees in a 20 minute session.

Excellent kit and customer service.

waddisme

I have the B&M of roughly the same size and I am still struggling to keep my 402 cool. Not sure if it is an airflow issue or just not a big enough cooler. At Rd Atl this past Friday, 96* and oil temps were at 285* and not shifting past 5500 rpms. Cooler is now in front of condensor, but I am moving it to license plate and doing fresh air mod. SC/Turbo people seem to have good experience with that. If that doesn't work, then I am off to a Setrab or another cooler. Good luck with it.

0Randy@DRM

Our kit doesn't mount there. We mount our cooler right in front of the radiator.

Randy

waddisme

I think it is Pfadt that places their cooler in the licence plate. From what I can tell, they have a duct that directs the air down and the cooler is mounted like parallel to the ground. Anyone know for sure? I would like to try just getting the duct seeing I have everything else. I was thinking this would eliminate the need for a thermostat, as you could use the solid plate cover during non race days, and the screened one for race days.

Rob's 73

I am pretty much decided on buying a Setrab series 6. How many rows is enough? Will 34 cut it? The 34 is rated for 43,000-59,000 btu's measuring about 11x12x10. I only want to do this once. Who has the best deal on Setrab's. I'd rather buy from a forum vendor.

I crawled under the car last night and noticed the driver's side radiator seal blew out about half way up. More duct tape next time. I also reviewed my HPTuners log of my last run on Sunday and my water temps hit 208.

VetteDrmr

Why don't you consider running BOTH coolers in series? Using AN fittings you can use your existing lines with unions to connect to the secondary OC, then plug those off and re-connect to the rad's OC when you don't need the additional cooling.

Kinda like what you'd do if you added a secondary cooler to an automatic tranny system.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Rob's 73

I was concerned about pressure drop. Should I be concerned? It would be easier to switch that way. The top fitting on the DeWitts is a bear unless you move the ABS module or loosen everything up enough to lean the radiator forward.

rad_vet

My radiator is mounted lower and further forward than the stock position. Also, my air intake is lower into the position where the DRM oil cooler would normally go. I was able to modify the mount that came with the kit to mount the oil cooler. The cooler is not actually in the license plate frame, it is straight back below the bumper.

VetteDrmr

I don't think the pressure drop will be significant, assuming you're using the same size lines. I think your comment about the upper fitting issue is aimed at running the two coolers in series helping you solve that problem.

I measured my oil pressure before/after installing my EOC. Running -8 lines (I know, the horror!) from the engine adapter, through a oil thermostat, up to the cooler mounted in front of the A/C condensor. I measured the pressure at 1000 rpm intervals, running as close to the same oil temp as I could. I saw a 2-3 psi differential, which I believe is within the measurement accuracy of the oil pressure sensor. In any case, it's never been a problem.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Wasserott

Get the largest cooler you can fit from either Setrab or Mocal. I was able to squeeze in the Setrab SET640 and used AN10 lines in front of the radiator. I max between 240-260 depending on how hard i push the car and RPMs.

kmagvette

Perfect timing on this thread. I had to bypass the oil cooler on my LG SuperCool2, Sunday night..for an event on Monday. No problem with the radiator, I screwed the threads on the oil cooler fittings 5 years ago...it is time for a dedicated cooler anyway.

I only need the oil cooler and mounting parts. I already have the lines and AN10 fittings. Forum vendor preferred, all suggestions are welcome. I need the cooler ASAP.

Setrab seems to be the defacto best choice.

Wasserott

TIP! For the best prices on Setrab i found CVProducts to the most competitive.

rustyguns

i think your having air flow problems. i ran a lingfelter system and in 100 degree 20 min sessions i would just barely hit 290 at the end of the session. Before cooler after about 10 minutes i would get redlights all over the dash with transmission temp and engine temps and bing bing bing ! Now i just watch it and when it hits 280 i do 1/2 lap slow and it cools down quick.

that is the simplest test to see if your getting enough air flow by how fast it cools off when it does get hot. or that silly bypass thingy is limiting your oil flow.

also i had no drop of any kind in oil pressure difference before and after the oil cooler install. but i am going big radiator with built in oil cooler next.

Rob's 73

I do not think that air flow is the problem. I keep everything taped up including top and bottom of the condenser/radiator gap. My oil temps would be about 240 by the end of the cool down lap. Water temps would be below 195 by then end of the cool down lap. I have always wondered about the block adapter. I lost 3-5psi when I first installed it when the motor was stock. Stock motor the rad/eoc was able to keep the oil temps in the 270s.
Should I dump the adaptor block? I use the accusump to prelube.

Rob's 73

How in the world did you fit the 640 in front of the radiator? I just took a couple of measurements. I think squeeze may be an understatement. Got any pics?