A-Pex

Thanks to an outing at HPR east of Denver and the insights gained here, I'm now thinking about setting up my C6 with one of those tire/tool trailers for track days.

This leads me to the following questions...

Is it worth it to go ahead and buy the trailer with a set of dedicated wheels and tires?

If so, what's your recommendation?

What kind of $ am I looking at for this kind of set up if you happen to know?

I don't think I'd be interested in adjusting the castor/camber/toe each time I go to the track so I don't think I'm looking for an all out race set up. Also, I'll need to be able to mount tire preasure sensors in the new set up. I'm looking for a set up that I could quickly change out at the track then switch back and drive home.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreiated!

AU N EGL

I did my first 10 DEs on street tires. Aggressive street alignment settings.

If you plan to drive back and forth Nitto makes a real nice sticky street tire.( another thread has started on these tires)

A-Pex

Thanks!

Yep I saw that thread. What I'm really looking for is the whole package (tire and wheels) to include recommended make, model, compound, size (to include width) for both the tires and the wheels front and rear.

My guess would be to shoot for low unsprung weight as well as great grip. Also, I'm not sure if an 18" rear rim allows for better traction or more wheel choices vs. a 19".

Alternatively is 20" rear wheel the best way to go for RR applications? It doesn't sound like it would be, but I'm very new to this and was looking for any insights/recommendations folks might have based on years of track experience.

Thanks again, all input is appreciated!

gkmccready

For the C6 you should call John@CCW. I love my C140s as everyday wheels. 18x10 front, 18x11 rear, 275/35r18+305/35r18 Toyo R888s. They're a little noisy, but you can drive them to and from the track, and the electronics stay happy with the stagger, the wheels are made to accept the TPMS. No clearance issues, no rubbing.

Randy@DRM can also get you a perfect set of Fikses built, and I'm sure LGM could do Forgelines.

There're now 19in rear tires that'll fit if you want to go that route. IMO there's little reason to run wheels larger than you need to clear the brakes unless you happen to have a source for cheap tires. A 20in wheel is going to be a lot heavier than an 18in.

My street/track alignment is a tick of toe-in front, -1.8deg camber, 8deg caster, 1/16" toe-in rear, -1.25deg camber. I've tried a bunch of different alignments and this one seems to work out pretty well. (Thanks Randy!)

Actually, I think you could pick up a set of stock wheels for cheap and put rubber on them that'd work just fine. Make sure you budget for a TPM programmer or you're willing to figure out how your car behaves with no sensors present.

A-Pex

AWESOME INSIGHTS!!!

That's just the kind of experienced recommendation I was looking for. You even went so far as to share a recommended alignment. WOW!

Thanks a ton!

errance

With both wheels being 18", do you get significant stagger from the difference in tire diameter?

gkmccready

25.6in vs 26.4in for those sizes...

wtknght1

I run the 18x10F and 18x11R...CCWs. Hoosier 315s on both front and back - really nice balance and good wear!

Rob Willis

Stock C6 rims with Toyo R888s all around.

Can be driven on the street as well.

C5 Hardtop

another plug for John at CCW. website

He knows his chit when it comes to wheels!

bowmanized

You could also get the wide rear fenders and go with 18x11 and 18x13 wheels. 315/345 Hoosier setup would be very nice. Not sure if you would even consider it, but I just thought I'd throw it out there.

Good Luck

gkmccready

Mike, did you get the 11s to not hit the tie-rod and not rub the fender at full travel? I ran 18x11 fronts for a long time and had to run a steering limiter and I was whacking the fender with the outer 3/8in of my 295mm R888s. (Thankfully the fender won.)

FWIW, the car feels a lot better with the 275/35r18 instead of the 295/30r18.