studs and lug nuts for track use
08-21-2009, 04:41 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
studs and lug nuts for track use
who makes studs and lug nuts that will deal well with track temps and repeated use? my stockers are getting to the point where it is an adventure to get them on and off...
OEM C5Z wheels
OEM C5Z wheels
08-21-2009, 05:05 AM
#2
Safety Car
I bought the ARPs for mine as I have mine off and on 2 times a month for track days. However, they are too long to switch out without removing the hub and would require and open lug nut. If that works for you, I can make you a good deal on them.
As for now, I just run a die over them once a month to keep them clean and straight. You can get one at hardware for $6. So far so good. May repl with Autozone ones over the winter just to be sure.
As for now, I just run a die over them once a month to keep them clean and straight. You can get one at hardware for $6. So far so good. May repl with Autozone ones over the winter just to be sure.
08-21-2009, 06:55 AM
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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ARP studs ( 2 1/2" ) and OPEN ended hardened lug nuts from NAPA or any auto parts store
any nuts that have those aluminum beauty caps on will come off or strip too quickly
any nuts that have those aluminum beauty caps on will come off or strip too quickly
08-21-2009, 09:55 AM
#4
Former Vendor
ARP studs are the only way to go. They are much stronger then the stock stud and last a lot longer then any other stud that we have used. We sell them for 42.95 (DRM70-015) it's under our wheels on our website. www.dougrippie.com
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Here is the install video.
One should clean the brake dust off them once and a while. I use a rag, can of brake clean, and a air hose. Blast them with the brake cleaner, use the rag as the anti-mess and use a air hose to finsh blowing off the rest, lightly I guess brake dust is pretty bad to breath in. Then I throw the nuts in the parts washer solvent.
Thanks
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
763-477-9272
[IMG]
[/IMG]Here is the install video.
One should clean the brake dust off them once and a while. I use a rag, can of brake clean, and a air hose. Blast them with the brake cleaner, use the rag as the anti-mess and use a air hose to finsh blowing off the rest, lightly I guess brake dust is pretty bad to breath in. Then I throw the nuts in the parts washer solvent.
Thanks
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
763-477-9272
08-21-2009, 10:32 AM
#6
Former Vendor
I have a plan B
For the upcoming videos.
08-21-2009, 10:46 AM
#7
Pro
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: greenville SC
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You can also get the longer studs from your local GM dealer. They are part of the T-1 kit but I believe they are actually longer than the ARP's if that is an issue for you.
08-21-2009, 04:01 PM
#9
Racer
A buddy of mine put longer ARP studs on his Mustang track car years ago after having the same problem. They stick out a bit, but they held up well to hot tire swaps at the track on a semi regular basis.
08-22-2009, 03:38 AM
#10
I'm qujte pleased with the ones drm offers. They are just about the same overall length as the factory ones so they don't stick out. They have threads all the way to ends so the overall useable stud is longer than stock. On a pure race car I prefer to have no threads on the end to make it easier to get the lug nuts started. It's not as stupid simple to get the nuts going with full threads.
08-22-2009, 12:48 PM
#12
Team Owner
ARP studs are the only way to go. They are much stronger then the stock stud and last a lot longer then any other stud that we have used. We sell them for 42.95 (DRM70-015) it's under our wheels on our website. www.dougrippie.com
08-22-2009, 02:48 PM
#15
Team Owner
I know that the lug nuts are the same (M12x1.50) but the ARP website shows the 2.5" stud dimensions with a .509 knurl width and a .313 length. So if the axle flanges for the C4 and C5 have the same diameter holes and the flange thickness is the same, then they should work 
That was the part I was curious about.
That was the part I was curious about.
08-22-2009, 03:11 PM
#16
Racer
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generous chamfer with a flat file. I've done this 40 times so far
.The cut end does get some surface rust, but it's cosmetic. You might be able to dab
some rustproof paint on there actually. Thread a nut on before doing so, so that
removing the nut cleans the thread of paint.
08-23-2009, 12:51 AM
#18
Safety Car
It's easy to cut the ARP studs. Saw to length with a hacksaw, clean up and add a
generous chamfer with a flat file. I've done this 40 times so far.
The cut end does get some surface rust, but it's cosmetic. You might be able to dab
some rustproof paint on there actually. Thread a nut on before doing so, so that
removing the nut cleans the thread of paint.
generous chamfer with a flat file. I've done this 40 times so far
.The cut end does get some surface rust, but it's cosmetic. You might be able to dab
some rustproof paint on there actually. Thread a nut on before doing so, so that
removing the nut cleans the thread of paint.
! I don't really care about the rust as my lug nuts are capped. I might try one to see how long it takes. I am guessing my dremel will not cut it.
08-23-2009, 02:27 AM
#19
Racer
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no problems.
However ARP studs make excellent chinese-hacksaw-blade-detectors. I have some cheapo
blades here which are literally two blades per stud! Soft as cheese.
But a decent blade will last through all 20 studs.