looking for advise - corded front toyo r888
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
looking for advise - corded front toyo r888
hi guys -
i have 3 months on these tires.
About 3000 street miles.
About 500 of those miles were on the road course.
Alignment specs here:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images...06-04-2009.jpg
basically -2.6 up front.
here's front drivers side tire from today:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/cordedr888.JPG
can you give me advise why it corded so quickly?
Passenger side isn't there yet.
Rears look meaty.
Too much negative camber? How's my toe setting?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
i have 3 months on these tires.
About 3000 street miles.
About 500 of those miles were on the road course.
Alignment specs here:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images...06-04-2009.jpg
basically -2.6 up front.
here's front drivers side tire from today:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/cordedr888.JPG
can you give me advise why it corded so quickly?
Passenger side isn't there yet.
Rears look meaty.
Too much negative camber? How's my toe setting?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
#3
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I would have zero toe up front for street driving. Yes that is a lot of chamber but thats not necessarily a bad thing. Add some toe to that chamber and the inside of the tire is going to do what you pictured.
#4
Safety Car
Is that the inside shoulder, or outside shoulder?
R888s wear extremely well normally. I just ran my first event on a new set of R888s 275/35r18+305/35r18 -1.8deg front, -1.25deg rear. The wear looks great. My set up guy was very familiar with the tire and suggested running them more upright. Prior to this I put a set on the car and did two weekends and probably 5000 street miles (drove them from SF Bay Area to Spring Mountain and back). I pulled them with a bunch of meat on the fronts and the rears down to the wear bars -- just getting good... but I was changing from 295/30r18 on 18x11 fronts to the 275s on 10in so I wanted a good baseline.
I run less front toe (about 1mm *in*) and less rear toe-in (1.5mm ~= 1/16" total toe-in). I have Pfadt poly bushings.
R888s wear extremely well normally. I just ran my first event on a new set of R888s 275/35r18+305/35r18 -1.8deg front, -1.25deg rear. The wear looks great. My set up guy was very familiar with the tire and suggested running them more upright. Prior to this I put a set on the car and did two weekends and probably 5000 street miles (drove them from SF Bay Area to Spring Mountain and back). I pulled them with a bunch of meat on the fronts and the rears down to the wear bars -- just getting good... but I was changing from 295/30r18 on 18x11 fronts to the 275s on 10in so I wanted a good baseline.
I run less front toe (about 1mm *in*) and less rear toe-in (1.5mm ~= 1/16" total toe-in). I have Pfadt poly bushings.
#5
Drifting
Even if you're at 0 toe on the front on the alignment rack, doesn't mean you really have 0 toe. The pic isn't good enough for me to have an opinion, but if it is wearing due to toe out, and you have 0 toe on the rack, it means you have something moving dynamically (bushing deflection, dead ball joints, tie rods, etc).
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
hi - thanks - that is the inside shoulder.
hi - thanks for the feedback. As a matter of fact, just recently I noticed that same side (drivers side front) upper bushing on the A arm is being pushed out:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/c5bush2.JPG
coincidence that same side has this cording issue?
Even if you're at 0 toe on the front on the alignment rack, doesn't mean you really have 0 toe. The pic isn't good enough for me to have an opinion, but if it is wearing due to toe out, and you have 0 toe on the rack, it means you have something moving dynamically (bushing deflection, dead ball joints, tie rods, etc).
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/c5bush2.JPG
coincidence that same side has this cording issue?
Last edited by 2MCHPWR; 09-01-2009 at 06:39 PM.
#8
looks like this is a result of street driving with a pretty agressive camber. remount them inside-out occasionally to avoid this. you may also not be running enough pressure to get the middle of the tire do it's share on the track.
i did this (plus left to right flip in the middle of the days on the tracks that favor one side) and kept the wear roughly equal everywhere on my 888s until they heat cycled out, never saw the cords even though the tires were done (no grip)
i did this (plus left to right flip in the middle of the days on the tracks that favor one side) and kept the wear roughly equal everywhere on my 888s until they heat cycled out, never saw the cords even though the tires were done (no grip)
#9
Drifting
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hi - thanks - that is the inside shoulder.
hi - thanks for the feedback. As a matter of fact, just recently I noticed that same side (drivers side front) upper bushing on the A arm is being pushed out:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/c5bush2.JPG
coincidence that same side has this cording issue?
hi - thanks for the feedback. As a matter of fact, just recently I noticed that same side (drivers side front) upper bushing on the A arm is being pushed out:
http://209.177.55.37/images/c5images/c5bush2.JPG
coincidence that same side has this cording issue?
Of course, My tires only last about 45 miles.