Best way to adjust the pedals in my C4?
09-27-2009, 12:28 AM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
Posts: 36,451
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Best way to adjust the pedals in my C4?
On the street, I have no issue with heel-toe in my C4. I was able to heel-toe my C5 on the street or track all day long without issue.
Of course, the brake pressure used on the street is much less than the track- and that;s the root of my issue with my C4.
I generally roll onto the gas pedal with the outside of my shoe (rather than "heel-toe") because, frankly, I have no idea how to get my leg to twist that way.
But with the brake pedal pressed so far down, it's actually slightly below the gas pedal- so it's very difficult to blip. I missed it at least 10% of the time today which is pretty frustrating. And that's with tennis shoes. With driving shoes, it would be almost impossible.
Any suggestions?
Of course, the brake pressure used on the street is much less than the track- and that;s the root of my issue with my C4.
I generally roll onto the gas pedal with the outside of my shoe (rather than "heel-toe") because, frankly, I have no idea how to get my leg to twist that way.
But with the brake pedal pressed so far down, it's actually slightly below the gas pedal- so it's very difficult to blip. I missed it at least 10% of the time today which is pretty frustrating. And that's with tennis shoes. With driving shoes, it would be almost impossible.Any suggestions?
09-27-2009, 10:01 PM
#3
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Fishers Indiana
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I get the gas with the side of my foot - even the ankle bone sometimes.
What I've found is that I need to get pretty high on the brake pedal with the ball of my foot to get my heel (or ankle) in the right position.
I have put a Momo pedal kit in, which makes the pedals a little bit larger. I'm sure that helps. I never attempted the heel-toe without the new pedals. I got them when I first started going to the track.
What I've found is that I need to get pretty high on the brake pedal with the ball of my foot to get my heel (or ankle) in the right position.
I have put a Momo pedal kit in, which makes the pedals a little bit larger. I'm sure that helps. I never attempted the heel-toe without the new pedals. I got them when I first started going to the track.
09-28-2009, 11:58 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
I finally got sick of rotating my foot from under the gas pedal this year. Too many big moments...
Anyway, my first attempt to rectify the problem was pretty simple. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and adjust the "plunger,shaft,bolt..." out. My pedal would travel 1/2+" before the brakes would engage so this helped. Be careful not to adjust it out too far because the brakes will drag.
My final and recommended solution is to put a '95 Camaro master cylinder on the car. (It has a 1" bore)
You'll need to do some line cutting/flaring but it's pretty straight forward. My brakes are now "usable" enough that I'm cracking rotors. Time for more cooling.
Good luck,
Matt
Anyway, my first attempt to rectify the problem was pretty simple. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and adjust the "plunger,shaft,bolt..." out. My pedal would travel 1/2+" before the brakes would engage so this helped. Be careful not to adjust it out too far because the brakes will drag.
My final and recommended solution is to put a '95 Camaro master cylinder on the car. (It has a 1" bore)
You'll need to do some line cutting/flaring but it's pretty straight forward. My brakes are now "usable" enough that I'm cracking rotors. Time for more cooling.
Good luck,
Matt
Last edited by mrc24x; 10-01-2009 at 11:42 AM.
09-30-2009, 08:18 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Anyway, my first attempt to rectify the problem was pretty simple. Remove the master cylinder from the fire wall and adjust the "plunger" out from the booster. My pedal would travel 1/2" before the brakes would engage so this helped. Be careful not to adjust it out too far because the brakes will drag.
Matt
Matt
On my car the brakes are active the instant the pedal is touched.
09-30-2009, 08:27 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
I shouldn't have called it a plunger. It's the adjustable shaft(on the booster) that pushes the piston of the master cylinder. Mine wasn't far enough "out" to make contact right when I hit the pedal.
09-30-2009, 09:05 AM
#9
Safety Car
Think plywood. Then maybe cover the wood with some sandpaper to keep your foot from slipping. This isn't very hard to do.
Richard Newton
Intervention Motorsports
Twitter
Richard Newton
Intervention Motorsports
10-01-2009, 01:06 PM
#13
Race Director
I had the same problem and bought a set of aftermarket pedals, the ones that are "covers" rather than a whole new assembly. I spaced the brake so that it was level with the gas when it was pushed down to the level that it would be under hard track braking. No more problem.
10-01-2009, 01:20 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
I had the same problem and bought a set of aftermarket pedals, the ones that are "covers" rather than a whole new assembly. I spaced the brake so that it was level with the gas when it was pushed down to the level that it would be under hard track braking. No more problem.
Same here, I used a MOMO brand brake pedal cover(only, not the gas) and offset it.
