02impactblue

Has anyone tried the EBC, Pronto, ATE or Brembo direct replacement rotors? All rotors mentioned are in the $35-$45 range. I have been using the Centric premium $48 rotors which last 3-4 track days with the Wilwood H pads, however, the run out on these rotors has been unacceptable. I went thru 4-5 pairs this year and all were terrible except for the last set I bought which was perfect, so maybe it was just a bad batch. Any experience with the above mentioned rotors concerning run out and wear characteristics? I just need to get thru this season then a "real" brake system is going on!

Jason

3-4 trackdays? I'd be happy with that.

02impactblue

Im ok with 3-4 days on cheap rotors but not happy with run out on new rotors. Nothing like putting new rotors on and feeling pulsations in the pedal.

longdaddy

3-4 track days lifetime is normal (actually pretty good) for rotors in this price range.

there is something wrong if you are getting pulsations with new rotors, even cheap ones. are you bedding them in prior to hard use?

here is a good place to start: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

sothpaw2

How do you know when they are done? Mine have 3 days exposure to H pads, have a lot of heat checks but none all the way to the outer edge just yet. They don't look deep but I've seen a very few that I can hang almost hang a fingernail in.

I still run the OEM C5 rotors from Brazil because I worry about the quality of the others. But it seems that may be unfounded if I only get 3 days out of them.

02impactblue

They are done when they are cracked. If I haven't cracked them after 4 days then I proactively replace them prior to the next track day. It gets expensive sitting out track time changing rotors!

fatbillybob

1) did you put a dial gage on your hubs?

2) did you measure runout with dial gage on the new rotors?

3) did you properly bed your pads and rotors?

Pad transfer can mess up a rotor very fast and make you think the rotors are bad when in fact many issues of "warped rotors" are really pad transfer issues.

Check it out.

RedLS1GTO

Vibration/pulsating with NEW rotors should never ever happen, even with the cheapest rotors. If it happens immediately you may have a hub issue. With the front end of the car in the air, see if there is any play in them.

UstaB-GS549

I have two Chinese no-name rotors from NAPA or Rockauto that have so much runout that the local parts store refused to turn them. The one indicates .030" out and is NOT pad material. I have never had this problem before.

I felt the pulsation in the pedal in less than a mile on new rotors. Bedding made them worse. I used the edge of a flat file to take pad material build up off the rotor between sessions.

RedLS1GTO

Yikes

longdaddy

i have used those rotors for years and never had this issue, check your hubs and calipers, something is not right.

UstaB-GS549

Exactly. I believe that I read about steel rotors and the reason that no one makes them is that they will warp. Cast iron will not. Carrol Smith?

These all cracked:

sothpaw2

Cracked but is this a crack all the way to the edge? I get heat checks immediately with the H pads but after the 3rd day some of those checks are just thick enough to hang a fingernail in. The rears have very few checks/cracks but there are 4-6 cracks between the 2 rotors wherein I can hang a fingernail.

Do you think it's safe to run the rears w/C5Z pads and this minor cracking (not many and not near the edge yet--kinda in the center)

Let us know what you find on the rotors. I'm thinking DBA or something since I don't much like changing rotors.

02impactblue

When the rotor is cracked you will know it. It is a heavy crack and cracked all the way to the edge. Unfortunately, you will notice it when you head on the track and hit the brakes the first couple times. As the heat builds the crack spreads causing a pronounced thumping in the brake pedal. The spider cracks or crazing you are describing on the rears is normal and again I would run them until they crack or you notice a very heavy crack developing. Its funny, everyone said the drilled rotors on the c6 won't hold up to track use but I never cracked one all the way through and I typically got 8-10 days before they were toast (maybe the difference is I was running the carbotech xp12's and not the wilwood H). Now that I'm back to a c5 I have the wheels off more than they are on. I hope a stoptech bbk will fix this!!

BTW: A friend of mine is running the DBA's and he is only getting 5-7 days out of them with the H pads. I don't think the price is justified for a couple more days at 3x the price of the cheapo's.

longdaddy

I used to run napa/centric/raybestos/stoptech replacement/whatever rotors until they crack all the way through (2-3 days usually, maybe 4 for brand name replacement models, like stoptech). since it happens as you come off the track and they start cooling down, it is not a serious safety issue to run them until they snap - i never had a rotor fail while under hard braking, it always happened in the paddock.

i no longer bother with cheap rotors and run high quality 2 piece setup, even if it turns out to be more expensive in the long run, it is a lot less hassle as wrenching on the car in the middle of the track days and always having to carry spares around was getting old. 2-piece setup I got has 3 days on it so far (Wilwood H pad) and they still look like new.

02impactblue

Which 2-piece rotor setup are you running?

longdaddy

Dba

redtopz

I've had a recent bout of bad luck with front rotors lately . I cracked my RF stoptech 2 piece rotor at my previous track day. They lasted about 4 track days. Then I ordered some replacements, but I didn't receive them in time for my track day last Friday. So I had a couple old spares to use. But I cracked the RF spare rotor bedding in my new Wilwood H pads. I had one rotor left and I made it through the day, but when I removed my wheels today I noticed both my front rotors have nasty cracks all the way through the outer edges. I have the LG wilwood front calipers with stock size rotors. Hopefully my next set of 2 piece rotors will last at least 4 track days.

0Vector Vette

We make a 2 piece rotor for the C5/C6, C6 Z51, and C6 Z06. We use Coleman Racing rotors and machine the aluminum hats ourselves. Our rotors are 100% made in the USA, are directional, direct bolt in replacements, slotted only - no holes, and weigh significantly less then stock rotors. These rotors are designed for what you are doing and will last far longer then the off shore replacements.

Combine these with a set of Cobalt Friction race pads for stopping performance you will not believe. Unbelievable initial torque, easy to modulate, last far longer then any comperable race pad, and are not hard on the rotors.

Give us a call if you are interested or have any further questions.

Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
815-254-2631

sothpaw2

Where'd you source them? I'm curious on the pricing. It's not that I hate so much to change rotors, but I'd rather do it at home and not worry at an event.

Currently I run rotors w/the stock pads on the street for months and also at events before changing to the wil H pads with them. This next time I can't do that, if I change rotors today I only have 3 weeks.