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C5 Front brakes on rear question

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Old 10-06-2009, 12:19 PM
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TmillerC5
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St. Jude Donor '08

Default C5 Front brakes on rear question

I have the LG/Wilwoods on the front and would like to possibly move my old C5 fronts to the rear. I have the Rippe big master cylinder so I could adjust bias. I know some guys have done this, but is it a big deal to do? Parking brake is no issue for me as it doesn't work now. Just wanted to know if a special bracket was need to mount them or is it just bolt them up and go. Anything else I need to know?
Thanks
Tim
Old 10-06-2009, 12:26 PM
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JVetthead
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Allmost bolt up..Use the bracket for the fronts. I cut away the backing plate for parking brake for better cooling. I think the rotor will fit without cutting it away but it wont breathe. Other than that its a bolt on..
Old 10-06-2009, 01:10 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Left front goes on the right rear, and right front goes on the left rear. Bleeders always point up

Randy
Old 10-06-2009, 02:19 PM
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davidfarmer
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how do you adjust bias with that master?? Is it something custom, or the big truck cylinder??? Adjusting out 60% increase in piston area isn't easy.
Old 10-06-2009, 04:00 PM
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TmillerC5
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
how do you adjust bias with that master?? Is it something custom, or the big truck cylinder??? Adjusting out 60% increase in piston area isn't easy.
I guess its the truck one cause it's nothing custom. Maybe Randy might chime in since it's one of theirs.
Old 10-06-2009, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
how do you adjust bias with that master?? Is it something custom, or the big truck cylinder??? Adjusting out 60% increase in piston area isn't easy.
We use a simple bias adjuster from Wilwood.

Randy
Old 10-06-2009, 05:27 PM
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So Randy are you saying the DRM master cylinder won't give enough adjustment, or is this something in addition to your master I would need.
Tim
Old 10-06-2009, 06:10 PM
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I did what you are trying to do, and ended up making a full dual-master assembly for my old WC car.
Old 10-06-2009, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TmillerC5
So Randy are you saying the DRM master cylinder won't give enough adjustment, or is this something in addition to your master I would need.
Tim
I don't quite remember your exact setup. If you bought one from us in the past 4-5 years, then you should have a **** to turn to reduce the amount of pressure to the rear brakes. There is plenty of adjustment there to run the front brakes on the rear.

Let me know if you have a valve or not.

Randy
Old 10-06-2009, 08:14 PM
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Note that these bias adjusters don't do what you think they do. I.e: they are not a replacement for a dual master setup like David used. They'll push the exact same amount of fluid as as system without the adjuster, until the adjustment point is reached, then it will attenuate the pressure to the rear.

What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).

Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
Old 10-06-2009, 09:17 PM
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Randy, I do have the adjustment **** on my unit.

I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
Old 10-07-2009, 09:42 AM
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Tim,
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
Old 10-07-2009, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 96CollectorSport
Tim,
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
That is about right 2-4 turns is what 90 percent of people run. Any more then that, one should start looking at the brake setup some more.

Randy
Old 10-07-2009, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TmillerC5
Randy, I do have the adjustment **** on my unit.

I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
Tim,
I have about 50 people running front brakes on the rear of their cars. 49 of them haven't hit the wall, so I would say it's been working fine. You will be in the 3-4 turns out range because of the 13 inch setup up front. Most people will run a 14 inch up front and the stock front on the rear (13 inch)

Let me know if you have any questions.

Randy
Old 10-07-2009, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mgarfias
Note that these bias adjusters don't do what you think they do. I.e: they are not a replacement for a dual master setup like David used. They'll push the exact same amount of fluid as as system without the adjuster, until the adjustment point is reached, then it will attenuate the pressure to the rear.

What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).

Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
I agree, a dual master setup is the hot setup for a flatout racecar. The problem is in dual use cars with all the electronics it's damn near impossible to get a dual setup in the car.

We have sold our master setup to people with the "sized" calipers and they have had great luck with them. Not just one kit, all of them in the market.

Randy
Old 10-07-2009, 10:49 AM
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Thanks for the info Randy. I think I will test the car out and keep Joel out of it for now
Joel, I am glad to see you will do anything for a friend
Tim
Old 10-07-2009, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TmillerC5
Thanks for the info Randy. I think I will test the car out and keep Joel out of it for now
Joel, I am glad to see you will do anything for a friend
Tim
Just trying to be helpful

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Old 10-07-2009, 06:31 PM
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Todd Z
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Joel just wants to do donuts!
Old 10-07-2009, 09:13 PM
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TmillerC5
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Originally Posted by Todd Z
Joel just wants to do donuts!
Do them or eat them
Old 10-08-2009, 09:22 AM
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96CollectorSport
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Actually with the bias screwed all the way in that would make for one hell of a burnout machine.
(Joel looking through the smoke "Hey Tim does that seem like to much forward bias????)



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