Mountable Curbing - What's your strategy?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Mountable Curbing - What's your strategy?
Hey guys, what's your strategy on driving on and using mountable curbing in your driving technique?
I know that there is no simple answer, but there are probably some general guidelines. My observations:
First, the concrete curbing stays wet longer, so you have to be careful not to lose traction early in the day.
Second, if the angle of the curbing on the outside of a turn is good, it can help to get the car set up for the straight that follows.
Third, sometimes there is a dirt (or muddy) or uneven area before and after the curbing, and it can unsettle the car.
Fourth, when "tracking out" from a turn, I only use the curbing on the outside if I need the room to carry my momentum forward.
So chime in, I would like to hear some other opinions and suggestions.
I know that there is no simple answer, but there are probably some general guidelines. My observations:
First, the concrete curbing stays wet longer, so you have to be careful not to lose traction early in the day.
Second, if the angle of the curbing on the outside of a turn is good, it can help to get the car set up for the straight that follows.
Third, sometimes there is a dirt (or muddy) or uneven area before and after the curbing, and it can unsettle the car.
Fourth, when "tracking out" from a turn, I only use the curbing on the outside if I need the room to carry my momentum forward.
So chime in, I would like to hear some other opinions and suggestions.
#2
Race Director
Almost always use inside curbing, unless it is especially steep/high. Like turn 3 at Rd Atlanta, the weight is shifted to the outside that the inside tire (and 2/3 of the car) skims across the curb as smoothly as if it wasn't there.
Outside curbs are a bit more complicated. They are often rough, and can hurt rear grip just when you need it the most. However, there are spots (like 7 at Rd Atlanta, turn 3 at VIR) where the curbing "catches" the rear end, allowing you to prevent throttle oversteer almost completely.
Outside curbs are a bit more complicated. They are often rough, and can hurt rear grip just when you need it the most. However, there are spots (like 7 at Rd Atlanta, turn 3 at VIR) where the curbing "catches" the rear end, allowing you to prevent throttle oversteer almost completely.
The following users liked this post:
Kubs (04-29-2022)
#3
My stategy is to stay off them even if that costs me a tenth. I have noticed that my wheels take a beating over the season to the point of becoming out of round as measured with a dial gage. I used to think my balance weights came off or the tire was spinning on the wheel or rubber worms where collection inside the wheel to throw off balance. Once I could prove none of these things were happening I was surprised what 020" off can do to felt wheel balance. My only conclusion is that hitting curbing dings your wheels running low profile tires. While a wheel should be able to take this at sub 60mph speeds once you get into the 80's and 100's the force on the wheels goes up dramatically. So for those of you having vibration issues check for out of round wheels and stay off the curbing.
The following users liked this post:
NSFW (04-29-2022)
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Yorba Linda Calif
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I try to stay just off all curbing .... But very close .... Im a believer in making the track as short as possible .... SLOW In FAST out . I normally go into a corner NO more then 3/4 track and USE all the track on the EXIT
Mark
Mark
#5
…..
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,868
Received 1,753 Likes
on
941 Posts
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
As much as I can any time. Like David said, unless it's really abrupt.
1A and 1B at NCM is a great opportunity to really straighten out the corner.
1A and 1B at NCM is a great opportunity to really straighten out the corner.
#8
Use the whole track. Some paved run off tracks like COTA or above post, it’s hard to determine what is cutting the track. Normally I count the line between asphalt and curb to be the track limits and 2 of my tires need to be inside there at all times. This means straddling the curbing often. I’d call the above first picture out of track but if competing it all depends on the race director. There are many many cota lap times where people cut nearly straight through the Esses and then post their “fast laps”. It’s a bit cheeky cause it can take almost 2 seconds off your lap time.
Club tracks with grass all around, hit the curbing as needed. I aim for the edge of pavement and push extra knowing the curbing will give me 1 ft of extra push room. That’s on high speed corners. <50 mph corners I try to hit the inside curbing to aide in rotation. 100% dependent on track.
Club tracks with grass all around, hit the curbing as needed. I aim for the edge of pavement and push extra knowing the curbing will give me 1 ft of extra push room. That’s on high speed corners. <50 mph corners I try to hit the inside curbing to aide in rotation. 100% dependent on track.
#9
My stategy is to stay off them even if that costs me a tenth. I have noticed that my wheels take a beating over the season to the point of becoming out of round as measured with a dial gage. I used to think my balance weights came off or the tire was spinning on the wheel or rubber worms where collection inside the wheel to throw off balance. Once I could prove none of these things were happening I was surprised what 020" off can do to felt wheel balance. My only conclusion is that hitting curbing dings your wheels running low profile tires. While a wheel should be able to take this at sub 60mph speeds once you get into the 80's and 100's the force on the wheels goes up dramatically. So for those of you having vibration issues check for out of round wheels and stay off the curbing.
#10
Drifting
My new set up keeps the front very close to the ground, uses a soft front spring, down stops and max amount of front rebound to keep the front jacked down.
It gives great grip and driver confidence but it's not what you want for riding over curbs.
Yes with my old C5 I could take a lot of curb not so today with the tube chassis car and new set up.
It gives great grip and driver confidence but it's not what you want for riding over curbs.
Yes with my old C5 I could take a lot of curb not so today with the tube chassis car and new set up.
The following users liked this post:
Kubs (05-06-2022)
#12
Drifting
Got to avoid hooking a rim on a curb when you ride the gators.
I try to use all the track width on entry and track out but rarely touch the apex gators.
#13
Safety Car
I find the inside curbs here in CO tend to help rotate the car. The curbs at Sonoma were a trip. They were rumbly, but the car didn't seem to mind. Made a real neat sound when you hit them. Very satisfying to get them both. There's a little section at Pike's Peak Int'l Raceway where you just let the curb snake under the car, really helps straighten out that section. There's nothing raised on the other side of the curb, but all curbs are the devil when they're wet.
The following users liked this post:
NVR2L8 (05-06-2022)
#14
Drifting
I have been pretty aggressive with the speed curbs in the past. With this car I am using a soft spring set-up and the motor is very low in the chassis. As a safety precaution, I added a bar to the undercarriage of the chassis to protect the dry sump pan and pump in case I straddle a curb. I have 2.75 inches of ground clearance with the splitter on the ground at full compression.
Pappy
Pappy
The following users liked this post:
Kubs (05-06-2022)