Calling suspension experts - ride height again!!
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Calling suspension experts - ride height again!!
I track the car at Bahrain international circuit.
Heading for a full pro alignment and corner weight setup this coming week. We hear a lot about the effect on the steering geometry of lowering the car too much, ie having poor angle on the bottom arms and introducing bump steer etc.
I have pfadt coils and comp sway bar installed. I use MSPC tires
Many of you will have years of experience on this and would be able to tell the corner weight guy to "start at this corner, set the ride height to "x" and take it from there"
But which corner? and what height?
I have a vented hood, thus less uplift (if any) at the front and thus less requirement for the rear/front rake. So if the ideal front is "x" what should the rear be?
Currently I set my car as a starter to 26" front (to u/s wheel arch) and 26-3/4" rear
I would be most interested in your thoughts, especially experts like aaron, david farmer and others who frequently post here
Thank you in advance
John
Heading for a full pro alignment and corner weight setup this coming week. We hear a lot about the effect on the steering geometry of lowering the car too much, ie having poor angle on the bottom arms and introducing bump steer etc.
I have pfadt coils and comp sway bar installed. I use MSPC tires
Many of you will have years of experience on this and would be able to tell the corner weight guy to "start at this corner, set the ride height to "x" and take it from there"
But which corner? and what height?
I have a vented hood, thus less uplift (if any) at the front and thus less requirement for the rear/front rake. So if the ideal front is "x" what should the rear be?
Currently I set my car as a starter to 26" front (to u/s wheel arch) and 26-3/4" rear
I would be most interested in your thoughts, especially experts like aaron, david farmer and others who frequently post here
Thank you in advance
John
#3
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Forget measuring at the fenderwell. Measure at the chassis (frame rail).
Disconnect sway end links, put your weight in the driverseat. Level the car side to side, check that your lower control arms are anywhere from level to slightly downward from center to outboard. Set your rake at zero to 1/2" tail high (driver preference).
Adjust the corner weight to achieve level side to side, while achieving 50% / 50% cross weight, Adjust and reconnect swaybar end links to maintain 50/50 cross weight.
This is a generic setup that will work well and most all tracks. Then you will fine tune the car with wedge if there are significantly more important turns in one direction. IE NASCAR predominantly turns left so they set the cars with more % of weight on right front and left rear.
You should use tire temps to come up with your optimum camber settings and tire pressures.
Disconnect sway end links, put your weight in the driverseat. Level the car side to side, check that your lower control arms are anywhere from level to slightly downward from center to outboard. Set your rake at zero to 1/2" tail high (driver preference).
Adjust the corner weight to achieve level side to side, while achieving 50% / 50% cross weight, Adjust and reconnect swaybar end links to maintain 50/50 cross weight.
This is a generic setup that will work well and most all tracks. Then you will fine tune the car with wedge if there are significantly more important turns in one direction. IE NASCAR predominantly turns left so they set the cars with more % of weight on right front and left rear.
You should use tire temps to come up with your optimum camber settings and tire pressures.
#4
Team Owner
a vented hood is far from preventing all up-lift in the front. You still need to put rake in the car start with 3/8 measured as the frame rail as stated above.
#6
Safety Car
MSI does more set ups than most anybody else here. You got good advice from somebody with more first hand experience than half this forum combined.
If you want an example of numbers, I'm 125mm to the front of the front jacking puck holes, and 135mm to the rear of the rear jacking puck holes. It works for me. Others like to run much lower. Others a little higher. And everybody seems fast.
The question is a lot like asking for alignment or favorite suspension packages. You're going to have to experiment with what works for you. That's probably why Mark didn't give hard numbers and told you what to watch for on the A-arm angles (parallel or slight down angle).
If you want an example of numbers, I'm 125mm to the front of the front jacking puck holes, and 135mm to the rear of the rear jacking puck holes. It works for me. Others like to run much lower. Others a little higher. And everybody seems fast.
The question is a lot like asking for alignment or favorite suspension packages. You're going to have to experiment with what works for you. That's probably why Mark didn't give hard numbers and told you what to watch for on the A-arm angles (parallel or slight down angle).
#8
Measuring ride height and rake should be done at the centerline between the front wheels and rear wheels so it is close to the roll centers. Measuring from the pucks will not give you the actual rake it would be more at the correct points.
P.S. I have a ton of Viper customers I help in Bahrain, if you look up the club there you should be able to find a speed shop that can help you with setup.
P.S. I have a ton of Viper customers I help in Bahrain, if you look up the club there you should be able to find a speed shop that can help you with setup.
Last edited by mjorgensen; 11-05-2009 at 10:00 AM.