DonF

Did I see some one post about the best trailer tires for your trailer. I have an enclosed trailer with living quaters & put new tires on it around 8 months ago. I had two tires go this week end at diff. times, had to buy one on the road & didn't get kissed before I got Scr**** on the price. I have " D " rated tires on it, would " E ' rated tires last any longer? I have a friend who has also gone through a few tires on his enclosed trailer this Summer. I have a few more long distance drives to make this year & don't want to worry about trailer tires. Thanks

BrianCunningham

How many piles in those?

If you hit a real truck stop you can get 6ply over 4

PS
I never got why the put tire smaller than what's on the car getting hauled onto trailers

Falcon

If you have 15" wheels you can get Carlisle tires in "E" rating and yes,they last longer. Those were the only make I could find that offered "E" rating in 15".

You could change to 16" tires and get regular truck tires and that would solve the blowout problem, too, but presents a whole new set of problems, i.e. tire clearance in the trailer fender wells, height of trailer for loading and unloading cars, and the expense of a new set of wheels, and spares.

0Vector Vette

The stories I could tell about trailer tires! From my experience, you do need E rated tires, that will help. It will not end tire blowouts though. Whenever one goes, usually the other one on that side will follow shortly. I have been told that is because when you lose one, all the weight on that side is now on one tire and it stresses the tire. That is why I now carry 2 spares.

My best advice is to check air pressure before you leave every time, proper air pressure is critical. Replace them frequently. I now buy 2 new ones at the beginning of the season, replacing them every other season. Good luck!
Robert

DonF

I check air pressure every time out along with my tow vechicle race tires, etc. Carlisle makes a 10 ply "E" rated I guess that's what I'll go with. A second spare will come along also, what a pain. Thanks

0C5stein

I've had good luck with Carlisle 10 ply "E" rated tires, I have a 45', tripple axle gooseneck, usually hauling two cars, equipment and spare parts. One thing that alot of people do not know is that trailer tires have a significantly different design than auto and truck tires, so stick with trailer tires. Alot has to do with the side loads inflicted from sharp turns with multiple axles.

Check your tire pressure often and replace your tires at least every 4 years unless you store your trailer indoors, with the load off of the tires. The last time I put new tires on my trailer, i installed a Hella tire pressure monitoring system. I haven't had a problem since. It seems that if you get a nail or leak, the pressure drops, heat skyrockets and then that tire blows out putting more heat into the other tire(s) on that same side. Have you ever noticed that you see more trailer tire blowouts on the side of the freeway when temps get over 95 degrees. The heat that it puts into the tires is unbelievable.
Also check your axle bearing as that can put alot of heat into the tires and cause early failure.

Oh, nitrogen helps alot with longevity too.

Z11409

Have had better luck with "Green Ball" tires from America's Tire
We use E rated tires on all trailers

Last longer than GY Marathons and handle better than Michelin Rib tires.

http://www.trailertiresafety.com/

John Shiels

Tires for trailers are marked "ST" which stands for

'Special Trailer' (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of 'Passenger Car' (P) or 'Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control.


I have had good luck with GY Marathons. Don't just go by the load rating look for ST also.

John Shiels

cheap

rfn026

You need ST tires - seriously. Do NOT use anything else on your trailer.

btw - I did write the book on trailers. Even if I'm going crazy wiring my current junk trailer.

Trailer Handbook

Richard Newton

John Shiels

Falcon

Everytime I stop the trailer (rest stops, etc.), the first thing I do is go around the trailer and feel the hubs with my fingers to detect any overheating.

I finally got smart and got one of those infra red detectors that I can use to do the same thing and not get my fingers dirty.

Last C5

After thousands of miles of towing I've found you need the ST tires and you need to keep the speed at 70 or less. ST are only rated for 65 and much above 70 seems to make them fail in a hurry.

speedwaywhite

Tire rack has some interesting info on trailer tires on their web site, tire pressures and speed are the keys to tire life. Tire rack advises that if you are going to exceed 65mph add an extra 10 lbs of air (cold). I tow a 24' enclosed with a 3/4 ton Suburban, rarely exceed 70 mph and have had good luck with Marathons.

johninar

Good information. I just got finished working up my Pace trailer order. I upgraded the 15" D range to larger hubs/16" wheels and E range tires. It was $460. I figured this was the time to upgrade.

I also will be putting in a TPMS system. I want to know when the tire starts going down, not when it comes apart. I really believe this will lead to better tire life. Also ordered 2 E range spares.

I owe the wife big time now, but what a great early Christmas present.