C5_Z06

Hi,

I'm about to install the T1 kit (minus a-arms) on my 2002 Z06 and have some questions that I couldn't find answers to by searching old threads.

1. Ride height. What should I aim for? The Z06 video recommends 10-15 mm lower than stock front and rear for best performance without bottoming out. Does that also apply for the T1 setup? Is the adjustability for the T1 springs in that range?

2. T1 springs comes with new height adjusters front, right? Do I simply reuse the stock rear adjusters with the T1 spring?

3. Swaybar links. What's the main benefit with the T1 endlinks? Can I use stock Z06 metal endlinks with the T1 bar?

4. When ordering the parts is P/N 25534433 the correct rear swaybar also for the C5? I.e. has it replaced P/N 12480066?

5. I'll be running ACE slick wheels in 18*9,5 and 19*11 (64mm rear offset) with Toyo R888 tires. Can I run 265/35*18 and 305/30*19 without issues?

Thanks!

yakisoba

1. Correct as far as I know.
2. Yes
3. The T1 links are a little stouter. You can use the stock one.
4. No idea
5. Should be able to. I run 315mm tires front and rear without issues.

fatbillybob

1- RH is all over the map but general consensus is too low bottoms shock=bad handling increased laptimes. Your wheel tire combo will determine the number of turns on the spring adjuster which will control the height. Most data is with T1 legal 17" wheels so you got some experimenting to do.

2- Yes. and since you are there can you look at your T1 springs and report here what is the actual casting number cast into your T1 spring? I suspect it is not the actual T1 part number of the spring. Can you report here on that please? Thanks!

3- yes but the advantage to the T1 link is a) no slop to add another dimension of unknown "wheel rate". b) the ability to detach during corner weighting to do that properly then passively reconnect as to not introduce unknown wheel rate and thereby upset the corner cross weight. Very technical use the T1 links and you will not have to worry about it.

4- can't answer don't know

5- T1 racers are running front 295-315 18's and rears 315 with AH off and having no issues. Stock is 265 and 295. If you do the math and stay close to the stock F/R ratio of diameters you should be ok. Compared to say a ferrari 360 GM was very generous is what we can put on and still have all the babysitters functioning well. But why do a 19? compared to the 10.5" stock wheel you are not getting anything for your money to go to a 305. If I were to change and have no rules it would be to a 18x11 or 18x12 with at least a 18x 10.5" up front to run bigger brakes. 19" rubber is costly and race tire sizes are many in 18".

Racer-38

Question for you.....why are running the Toyo's? If you are running SCCA T1 run the Hoosier A6's or R6's

davidfarmer

the reason you run new end links is that they are adjustable. You ARE going to corner balance the car right??

rustyguns

mikahb

Well, his location says "Europe." Unless they've added a new state that I'm not aware of (entirely possible), I don't think T1 is all that big over there.

To the OP - your setup with wheels/tires sounds like a recipe for push to me. All the T1 guys I know run 315's all the way around and the car is very balanced with that setup. As you build differential between F and R tire width, I think you'll move the car away from its happy place.

C5_Z06

Yes, a corner balance is planned. I thought you did that with the end links not attached? Please enlighten me.

I'm located over in Europe where I need to have a street legal tire for on road use since I'm also going to run the car "on-road". R888 is approved for that here. I was mostly concerned about fitment and interference issues with the wider rear tire, and possibly as mentioned above understeer with the different width compared to the 315's apparently used in T1 racing.

Ok, so I reuse the rear bolts. Then as a start I aim for 10-15 mm lower front and rear. Did I get that right?

Jason

You do adjust ride height with the endlinks disconnected, then you need the adjustability to be able to reconnect since the connection points will have moved.

Racer-38

[QUOTE=mikahb;1572139482]Well, his location says "Europe." Unless they've added a new state that I'm not aware of (entirely possible), I don't think T1 is all that big over there.

QUOTE]


Mikah........you are wise beyond your years.

rustyguns

se Michelin Sport Cups or Nitto 555 R2's...they are much better than 888's !

CP Thunder

I think he is asking about 'C5' sizes..........there isn't an allowance for an 18 inch front wheel.......

17x10
(F&R)
or
17x11(R)
18x10.5 (R)

245/45/17
275/40/18
or
315/35/17
(max)(F&R)

Rear tires may
protrude up to
1.0” with GM
T1 Perf. Susp.
pkg.

Max. camber:
(F) -3.5
(R) -2.5 with
GM suspension
pkg.

wtknght1

Other than what's been stated already, the T1 springs come with more robust ride height adjuster bolts with a delrin/plastic end piece instead of the stock cushy rubber one.

Have the car professionally cornerweighted and tuned...but DO NOT LOWER the car more than just a hair. An improperly lowered C5 is worth 2-3 seconds per lap! The suspension on the Vettes must be allowed to travel to work effectively.

Good luck and have fun!

CP Thunder

Chris.....

Nice work at ARRC.......

wtknght1

What's that old saying: "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and again."

C5_Z06

Adjusters are only supplied for the front spring then?

I'll go with stock height, or slightly lower. My car is not lowered as far as I know, but just to be sure, what is the stock ride height?

Anybody know if the partnumber for the rear sway bar is correct above?

wtknght1

No, if you get the T1 springs, both F and R come with those robust ride height screws.

As far as the ride height goes... The Phoenix guys use a GM part numbered level that they compare the front lower A-arm and the outer knuckle. In other words, I don't know the sweet spot...but those guys do!

C5_Z06

Front only, or front are rear delrin screws? Different answeres here. Reason for asking is I bought used set that only had the front ones.

Edit: It's for the C5 if that matters.

froggy47

c5 front only.

96CollectorSport

Chris is mistaken here, the C6 rear spring has a delrin set-up like the front spring of both a C5/C6. The C5 has a bolt that goes through the rear lower A-arm of a C5 and through the spring. (The rear spring is lower than the A-arm in a C5 as apposed to a C6 where the spring rests on the rear A-arm) We use a longer 7" bolt on our car, that has a finer adjustment.
If your car hasn't been hit I would start around 26 1/2" front (from floor to fender lip) and 26 3/4" to 26 7/8" rear (again floor to fender lip).
I know that isn't the best place to measure from but if you are looking for a rough number you can start with those should be ok. Just make sure you check the air in the tires and that you are on level ground.
Also those numbers are for C5's I've done with 295/35/17 front Hoosier A6 and 315/35/17 rears. So your tire sizes may be a little different.

Also you definatly want to use the end-links from the sway bars so that you don't pre-load your sway bars.