Bought a C4 - now what?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bought a C4 - now what?
So I bought a 95 LT1 C4 to use as a street/track car, and I am trying to figure out what to do with it for HPDEs over the next couple years. I will only be driving it on the street when I go to and from the track and maybe once a week. It already has
Dewitts radiator with EOC
Electric water pump
C5 brakes
RD crossframe
Bilstein sport shocks
Poly front bushings
and a couple other things for the track.
Here is my plan but I wanted some input from those who have been down this road.
Autopower or Kirk roll bar - where to get this installed?
Canton oil pan with Accusump
Turn One PS Pump - DRM hose
Brake ducts - Quantum brake cooling kit
VBP sways 32/26
Exhuast - muffler eliminators
Racing seats - heard C4s are a tight squeeze so don't know what fits.
Anything else I am forgetting that should be on the list?
Dewitts radiator with EOC
Electric water pump
C5 brakes
RD crossframe
Bilstein sport shocks
Poly front bushings
and a couple other things for the track.
Here is my plan but I wanted some input from those who have been down this road.
Autopower or Kirk roll bar - where to get this installed?
Canton oil pan with Accusump
Turn One PS Pump - DRM hose
Brake ducts - Quantum brake cooling kit
VBP sways 32/26
Exhuast - muffler eliminators
Racing seats - heard C4s are a tight squeeze so don't know what fits.
Anything else I am forgetting that should be on the list?
Last edited by The Panther; 11-28-2009 at 05:02 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
I'ev got a large Kirkey seat in mine, I think it's 17", but I don't remember now. I had it on the factory sliders, but it's quite high on that so I'm mounting it fixed (and lower) with a different setup. I'm 6'2" linebacker built and my head hits the ceiling panel with that setup. Check to see how wide a seat you need, you may not need one that wide. If you need wider, it will be very tight, especially if you plan on keeping the factory seat belts for street-legal purpose. Oh, and the higher sides and wings make it so much more "fun" to get in and out!
I've been checking out roll cages, there are a lot out there and relatively inexpensive, compared to what I thought they'd be. Do a search for roll cages in the "C4" forum and you'll find plenty of info, and check in your area for a speed shop, they can probably install you something, or tell you where you can get it done.
I've been checking out roll cages, there are a lot out there and relatively inexpensive, compared to what I thought they'd be. Do a search for roll cages in the "C4" forum and you'll find plenty of info, and check in your area for a speed shop, they can probably install you something, or tell you where you can get it done.
#3
Melting Slicks
I like the 32/26 roll bars myself; I think that is a real good choice. I would try to pick up (4) Z06 Speedline 18x10.5 wheels; the square setup and a wide front tire suits the C4. Of couse, the widest, stickiest never hurt either. Never went with the Canton road race pan and I have over a 100 track hours(with sticky tires) on a mostly stock(292 RWHP) LT1 and no oiling issues; I use Redline 10w-40 and overfill a half quart.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I thought LT1s had issues with the stock oil pan. I guess I need to do some more reading. I definitely don't want to change the pan unless it is necessary. I am working my way down the line (C6 then C5 and now C4) and pretty much starting the learning process over with each car.
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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If I wasn't going to a drysump, I've get the road race pan and an acusump.
I know a couple of guys that spun bearings.
I'd skip the C5 calipers, still slide rails, and go a set of Wilwoods.
Eliminators are nice if you keep the rest of the exhaust, too loud to make sound if you install headers.
I know a couple of guys that spun bearings.
I'd skip the C5 calipers, still slide rails, and go a set of Wilwoods.
Eliminators are nice if you keep the rest of the exhaust, too loud to make sound if you install headers.
#7
Le Mans Master
I thought LT1s had issues with the stock oil pan. I guess I need to do some more reading. I definitely don't want to change the pan unless it is necessary. I am working my way down the line (C6 then C5 and now C4) and pretty much starting the learning process over with each car.
#8
Melting Slicks
#9
Melting Slicks
#11
Melting Slicks
I've got a Sparco Evo seat in mine. Fixed mount on Hardbar rails. Had to pull the parking brake out to get it mounted low enough to sit in. As it is my helmet is still VERY close to the roof. 6-2, 195.
I use the 6 quart Canton pan. Go to their website for the part number. I did it as insurance to get the extra quart.
Not to argue with you Brian but the Wilwoods are very exensive if you're on any kind of budget. I put the C5 fronts on and noticed a very nice improvement over the J55 brakes I had. All that said, if I could afford it I would put the Wilwoods on.
You might want to be careful with the muffler eliminators. A lot of places are enforcing the sound rule.
Maybe it's just my set up but I had Speedlines with 315s on and had a problem rubbing the front plastic inner fenders. I added a 1/4" spacer and still rubbed a fair amount. I do a lot of auto-x going lock to lock. I would think if you're only going to track the car you wouldn't have that problem as (obviously) the turns aren't as tight.
I found a local shop that builds dirt track cars and had them do the six point cage in the car. It was very reasonable and done to SCCA / NASA / NCCC specs. I've heard the mail order ones don't line up real well and you have to mod them a bit. If you're handy that's not a big deal.
#13
Team Owner
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I've never been bounced on the sound.
Cheap enough to try it.
Keep them just in case.
BTW unless you go to a larger diameter pipe, all the aftermarket systems really do it make it sound better. No real improvement.
For that matter I didn't pick up anything with the eliminators on the dyno.
Something GM did right.
Cheap enough to try it.
Keep them just in case.
BTW unless you go to a larger diameter pipe, all the aftermarket systems really do it make it sound better. No real improvement.
For that matter I didn't pick up anything with the eliminators on the dyno.
Something GM did right.
#14
Instructor
The Turn One PS pump rebuild was the single best thing we did to our car. Always had trouble with PS fluid over heating. I share the car so we often run back to back sessions; now never a problem. I understand the high pressure hose is a big failure item. Mine never went but I got the Rippie hose anyway.
The C4 is very camber limited in front. I have the VBP offset lower control arm bushings and later shaved the upper control arm spacers. I'm running -2.1 now. Not sure if both are needed to get there.
Our 94 has been a lot of fun and reliable even running double sessions. We need to add power and "lightness".
The C4 is very camber limited in front. I have the VBP offset lower control arm bushings and later shaved the upper control arm spacers. I'm running -2.1 now. Not sure if both are needed to get there.
Our 94 has been a lot of fun and reliable even running double sessions. We need to add power and "lightness".
#15
Sounds like you have a good plan. Just to cover some basics:
If you choose to run the stock pan, make sure you run it 1 qt over the full mark and check it every session. For the amount of effort you are putting in, the canton is a good way to go.
It's always good to know the age of the optispark. They dont last very long (espically when they get moist) and can cause you to chase a lot of other problems.
Chris
If you choose to run the stock pan, make sure you run it 1 qt over the full mark and check it every session. For the amount of effort you are putting in, the canton is a good way to go.
It's always good to know the age of the optispark. They dont last very long (espically when they get moist) and can cause you to chase a lot of other problems.
Chris
#16
Melting Slicks
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Lots of good info. For the PS pump is it a rebuild or a whole new pump? Their website is kind of weak.
Last edited by The Panther; 11-25-2009 at 04:50 PM.
#18
Burning Brakes
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#19
Burning Brakes
I bought a power steering pump from Turn-One last summer. They happened to have a core and got the build done right away. If they don't have a core, they will need your old pump. Like others have said, the Rippie high pressure line is the way too go!
I run a Cobra Suzuka seat in my car with hardbar seat rails. Everything fits fine. I would recommend against using factory seat belts with any kind of racing seat. Just my 2 cents. Let me know if I can help with anything!
Scott
I run a Cobra Suzuka seat in my car with hardbar seat rails. Everything fits fine. I would recommend against using factory seat belts with any kind of racing seat. Just my 2 cents. Let me know if I can help with anything!
Scott
#20
Instructor
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c-4 now what
for wheels i run the original grand sport 11 x 17 rims which weigh only 22 lbs.
The aftermarket ones can weigh up to 27lbs
I had lots of p steering issues until i put in a turn one rebuilt and now no problems at all
Dont scrimp on a roll bar, have a pro build one into your car unless you dont value your head
Try and find zr-1 front calipers as they have larger cooling fins
Buy a front spoiler that has brake cooling ducts built in and run hoses that point at the calipers and you will greatly reduce brake fade and boiling the fluid issues, and use hi temp fluid
The aftermarket ones can weigh up to 27lbs
I had lots of p steering issues until i put in a turn one rebuilt and now no problems at all
Dont scrimp on a roll bar, have a pro build one into your car unless you dont value your head
Try and find zr-1 front calipers as they have larger cooling fins
Buy a front spoiler that has brake cooling ducts built in and run hoses that point at the calipers and you will greatly reduce brake fade and boiling the fluid issues, and use hi temp fluid