Most economical R-comp tire/wheel combo for C4
#1
Most economical R-comp tire/wheel combo for C4
Hi gang,
Ok, I've done some research and am looking for a sanity check here (and strong disagreements as well). I bought a C4 beater for mostly track and light street-legal use. After a few track days, I'm now driving faster than the Z-rateds that came with the car allow, and am ready to get back to R-comps. COST is a big issue here - trying to be as economical as possible.
Here's are a few assertions that are driving my decision. Please throw stones!
TIRES
- 18" tires generally are $100 more a pop than 17".
- I'm not ready for full slicks, so RA-1s are a good step-up tire becuase they will slide/give a bit at the limit before giving out. They also last a long time, and seem to be better for the occasional street/rain use than other Rcomps (R888, NT01, etc)
- Used race tire places have mostly slicks - it will be tough to find lightly-used RA-1s.
WHEELS
- Squared-up front & rear wheels/tires work well on the C4; this is economical for tire-rotation & even wear purposes.
- The 17x11 GS rear wheel with 305+ will rub on the front liner/fender. 17x9.5 GS or C5 Z06 (or what else?) with 275s seem better.
- I did the C5 front brakes, so I think that limits options (no sawblades?)
Ok thats what's in my head for now - please offer your suggestions for economical C4 tire/wheel setups. I'll prob do a WTB in the next few days based on your feedback.
Thanks!
Andy
Ok, I've done some research and am looking for a sanity check here (and strong disagreements as well). I bought a C4 beater for mostly track and light street-legal use. After a few track days, I'm now driving faster than the Z-rateds that came with the car allow, and am ready to get back to R-comps. COST is a big issue here - trying to be as economical as possible.
Here's are a few assertions that are driving my decision. Please throw stones!
TIRES
- 18" tires generally are $100 more a pop than 17".
- I'm not ready for full slicks, so RA-1s are a good step-up tire becuase they will slide/give a bit at the limit before giving out. They also last a long time, and seem to be better for the occasional street/rain use than other Rcomps (R888, NT01, etc)
- Used race tire places have mostly slicks - it will be tough to find lightly-used RA-1s.
WHEELS
- Squared-up front & rear wheels/tires work well on the C4; this is economical for tire-rotation & even wear purposes.
- The 17x11 GS rear wheel with 305+ will rub on the front liner/fender. 17x9.5 GS or C5 Z06 (or what else?) with 275s seem better.
- I did the C5 front brakes, so I think that limits options (no sawblades?)
Ok thats what's in my head for now - please offer your suggestions for economical C4 tire/wheel setups. I'll prob do a WTB in the next few days based on your feedback.
Thanks!
Andy
Last edited by aspeters; 11-30-2009 at 05:50 PM.
#2
For track duty... I'd run 17x11 GS knock offs with 315x35x17 Kumho V710's. They'll last a long time and they're decently sticky. The fender rubbing doesn't bother me at all, it's a C4, it needs to have a little wear here and there. Furthermore, for us they only rub at full lock, which I hope you don't hit too often on the track...
#3
Melting Slicks
I am a big fan of using (4) 18 x 10.5 Z06 Speedlines and a square setup of racing scrubs. I have not bought a new set of tires in 5 years! I pay $50-$75 for scrubs. The availability of 18" rubber is superior to 17" sizes. There is a good selection of A6's, R6's, V710's if you are diligent in your search. When you want to move up to slicks, you will be glad you took the 18" route. A 295/30-18 is ideal but anything in the 285-305 sizes works well.
#4
Racer
275/35/18 is also a VERY popular size to find scrubs in, and in the A6/R6 line, fits very nicely on the 10.5" rear. It's got a ~10.5" tread measurement (it's a wide "275"), so it works very well with a 10.5" wheel.
Agreed 295 (~10.8" tread) is probably the most optimal fit with near vertical sidewalls.
Agreed 295 (~10.8" tread) is probably the most optimal fit with near vertical sidewalls.
#5
Melting Slicks
275/35/18 is also a VERY popular size to find scrubs in, and in the A6/R6 line, fits very nicely on the 10.5" rear. It's got a ~10.5" tread measurement (it's a wide "275"), so it works very well with a 10.5" wheel.
Agreed 295 (~10.8" tread) is probably the most optimal fit with near vertical sidewalls.
Agreed 295 (~10.8" tread) is probably the most optimal fit with near vertical sidewalls.
#6
I'm sure they're a few seconds faster per lap - but don't the A6, R6, & V710s have a very abrupt breakaway, compared to the perhaps more gentle RA1, R888, NT01, etc...
Will be honest that I'm a bit scared to work my way up to driving at 10/10ths on those, knowing that at 10.1/10ths I may be backwards stuffed into a wall...
Will be honest that I'm a bit scared to work my way up to driving at 10/10ths on those, knowing that at 10.1/10ths I may be backwards stuffed into a wall...
#7
Le Mans Master
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I'm sure they're a few seconds faster per lap - but don't the A6, R6, & V710s have a very abrupt breakaway, compared to the perhaps more gentle RA1, R888, NT01, etc...
Will be honest that I'm a bit scared to work my way up to driving at 10/10ths on those, knowing that at 10.1/10ths I may be backwards stuffed into a wall...
Will be honest that I'm a bit scared to work my way up to driving at 10/10ths on those, knowing that at 10.1/10ths I may be backwards stuffed into a wall...
#8
Le Mans Master
I've got a set of Gotti 17x11 rims with 315 v710's mounted on them I could sell cheap.
The v710's are old and worn out, worth zip.
I have not had problems with them rubbing on VIR, Road ATL or Roebling Road on my 92.
Haven't tried them with the c5 brakes though.
I'm moving to the 18" speedlines for next year.
The v710's are old and worn out, worth zip.
I have not had problems with them rubbing on VIR, Road ATL or Roebling Road on my 92.
Haven't tried them with the c5 brakes though.
I'm moving to the 18" speedlines for next year.
#9
Race Director
Consider the C5 thin spokes too. They are very light, only 18 pounds! I run four of the rears, 18x9.5". I usually run a 285/35/18 on all four, the one set of pilot sports is 44 pounds tire/rim. One pair of the thin spokes I picked up for only $80 so they are reasonable too. That all being said, I'd trade for the 10.5" Z06 wheels.
Pic with the bling caps on.
Pic with the bling caps on.
#10
Le Mans Master
I couldn't find another set of the rear thin spokes. I have a set from the wife's car when I got her repro Z06 chromies. Found a set of the speedlines for what I was willing to spend with slicks mounted that should be good for a few events next year.
OP - if you are near Road Atlanta come out this weekend, bring a new toy for admission and come find us time trialers (there will be a few corvettes, at least one mustang). Hang out and learn a bunch.
OP - if you are near Road Atlanta come out this weekend, bring a new toy for admission and come find us time trialers (there will be a few corvettes, at least one mustang). Hang out and learn a bunch.
#11
So sounds like theres alot of advocates for 18" squared-up R6/A6/710 scrubs.
For those of us without tow vehicles - would you drive these to/from the track, and on the occassional weekend jaunt? (I was OK cruising on RA-1s when they had some tread on them.)
Or, is there a Tire Tail equivalent that would work as a hitch to get these to the track? (I'm in a townhome - no trailer parking)
...Orrrr, anyone squeezed 4 of our huge rims in the passenger seat and boot of a C4?
For those of us without tow vehicles - would you drive these to/from the track, and on the occassional weekend jaunt? (I was OK cruising on RA-1s when they had some tread on them.)
Or, is there a Tire Tail equivalent that would work as a hitch to get these to the track? (I'm in a townhome - no trailer parking)
...Orrrr, anyone squeezed 4 of our huge rims in the passenger seat and boot of a C4?
#12
Former Vendor
I've run R888s, 275/40-17, and A6s, 295/35-17. The A6s have a lot more grip. I run the stock 17' rims and trailer the Hoosiers to the track. The Toyos can be driven on the street, no problem.
#13
So sounds like theres alot of advocates for 18" squared-up R6/A6/710 scrubs.
For those of us without tow vehicles - would you drive these to/from the track, and on the occassional weekend jaunt? (I was OK cruising on RA-1s when they had some tread on them.)
Or, is there a Tire Tail equivalent that would work as a hitch to get these to the track? (I'm in a townhome - no trailer parking)
...Orrrr, anyone squeezed 4 of our huge rims in the passenger seat and boot of a C4?
For those of us without tow vehicles - would you drive these to/from the track, and on the occassional weekend jaunt? (I was OK cruising on RA-1s when they had some tread on them.)
Or, is there a Tire Tail equivalent that would work as a hitch to get these to the track? (I'm in a townhome - no trailer parking)
...Orrrr, anyone squeezed 4 of our huge rims in the passenger seat and boot of a C4?
#14
Safety Car
It all depends on what how far you expect to go with the hobby in the near future.
If you don't like the extra work of a trailer, getting 4 9.5 A-molds or even 2 A-molds (to clear the front brakes) and 2 9.5 saw blades is cheap. Getting 4 275-40-17 NT-01 will not be too bad and they should last a long time since you can rotate them. A lot depends on how many events you do--I like getting new tires because I do few events and I will keep 'em a long time so the rubber will get take a while to get old.
If you get scrubs they might already be older so you need to use 'em up relatively quickly.
If you don't like the extra work of a trailer, getting 4 9.5 A-molds or even 2 A-molds (to clear the front brakes) and 2 9.5 saw blades is cheap. Getting 4 275-40-17 NT-01 will not be too bad and they should last a long time since you can rotate them. A lot depends on how many events you do--I like getting new tires because I do few events and I will keep 'em a long time so the rubber will get take a while to get old.
If you get scrubs they might already be older so you need to use 'em up relatively quickly.
#15
Le Mans Master
I tow a little Harbor Freight trailer with my tires and tool box. I don't think the frames that attach to the hitch would work - never tried it. I wouldn't drive to far on V710's - they have no real tread.