C5Lion

For track events I change my front pads from the stock ones to something much more aggressive. A few times I also changed the rear pads but found this to be a pain and more time consuming especially since I pull the caliper off to change my pads. I usually have a hard time breaking free and re-torqueing the rear caliper bolts since you cannot rotate the calipers like you can in the front.

In any case, is their a good compromise for buying a slightly more aggresive rear pad that I can leave on all the time? I wouldn't want a pad that squeals however when driven on the street.

I have run a few events with aggressive front pads and stock rear ones with not much trouble but this probably is not the best idea.

I have used Carbotech XP12 pads in the past and I am now looking into getting some Hawk DTC70 pads.

Any thoughts?

0Robert@SPEEDSOUTH

Give me a call tomorrow.

0Vector Vette

Cobalt Friction is the best race pad out there. Unbelievable initial torque, easy to modulate, lasts far longer then either of the brands you mentioned, and are far less abusive on the rotors as well.

Unfortunately, all race pads are noisy and dusty too. There are pads out there that you can compromise with, but I wouldn't advise going to Cobalt Friction XR1 or XR2, Hawk DTC 70, or Carbotech XP-12 without a comperable rear pad. Anything that will work properly with these pads will not work on the street with the stock pads on the front. Your best choice is to change all the pads, or back off the pedal at the track.

Give us a call if you are interested in Cobalt Friction pads or have any other questions.

Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
815-254-2631

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Give us a call 1877-899-5024

0Robert@SPEEDSOUTH

Agreed

For the dual purpose cars I rec. changing the pads before and after the events. Incorporate swaps into your pre & post track inspections.

sothpaw2

Can he run an XP8 front with stock pads on the rear at the track? I've been wondering about that combo. to avoid cracking front & rear rotors so often. Would like to double the rotor life from 3 days (wil H) to 6 days. This also avoids the need to change rear pads which is a little extra work.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Yes, he can contact me at adam@ctbrakes.com or 216-780-8825

Bill Dearborn

You can rotate the calipers the same way as the fronts so you don't need to pull the whole caliper off. The OEM rear hoses are a little short so you need to jack up the suspension a couple of inches so you can get enough slack in the hoses. If you have aftermarket stainless hoses on the car and installed them properly with the longer hoses in the rear you should have enough hose length to rotate the caliper with ease.

I have run many types of pads in the OEM calipers and was satisfied with PFC 01s front and 99s in the rear. Hawk Blues worked as well but really wore the rotors down if I drove them on the street. Wilwood H pads work also. Never ran the Carbotech pads so can't say anything about them. None of them will eliminate the long pedal associated with brake pad taper caused by the calipers.

Bill

Maxx Schlick

I know what you mean about getting enough arm in there to break the rear caliper bolts loose and then re torque. Rears are not as easy as the fronts.

I have found the trick for the rears is, you have to lift the car high enough (so you can get under it laying on the ground), then use a long breaker bar (or torque wrench). Once you get a straight pull on the breaker bar it works no problem.

Gotta just get it done, and swap out all four corners each time. I've swapped mine out enough times now, that it takes me about one hour total, including getting it up on jack stands, and then back down.

95jersey

Unfortunately a true dual purpose pad in my experience doesn't exists and with all the HP a Z06 has, you need all the stopping power you can get your hands on and changing brake pads in the Z is a real pain in the @ss (no ways around it).

This year I am going to get a BBK on the front with removeable bridge and pad changes come in minutes vs removing the pins or the caliper itself, then you can run stock or an XP8 on the rear and easily swap from street to track. I did this exact thing on my C5 for years as I drove it to the track...worked great!