18" rear wheels over 19"?
#1
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18" rear wheels over 19"?
What is the advantage of running 18" rear wheels? Lots of C6 Z06's go to 18" rear wheels for HPDE's when they put on R-Compounds. Why? I've noticed that a lot of C6 Z06's go to 18X11 wheels with 295/30-18 tires for front (some run a 315 front) and 18X13 wheels with 345/35-18 rear. Why not stay with the 19" rear wheel? Why not run a 345/30-19 rear tire? I'm just curious why the 18" rear wheel and not stay with the 19".
#3
Safety Car
cost? Selection? seems as you go bigger the cost skyrockets and selection is diminished. The cost really bothers me because the tire is not any wider, just larger dia. so the circ. is a little larger but not by much. The amount of rubber is probably within 2-5% and the cost is many times 40% more.
#4
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You guys have probably nailed it. I just checked Tire Rack and the cost was a bit different and the 18" were in stock.
345/35-18 Hoosier R6's were $376 each plus shipping
345/30-19 Hoosier R6's were $403 each plus shipping
Also the 18" were in stock ready to ship and the 19" were a special order and if you ordered them they would email you if they couldn't be shipped within 7 days. So who knows when they would actually ship.
I think my question has been answered. Thanks
345/35-18 Hoosier R6's were $376 each plus shipping
345/30-19 Hoosier R6's were $403 each plus shipping
Also the 18" were in stock ready to ship and the 19" were a special order and if you ordered them they would email you if they couldn't be shipped within 7 days. So who knows when they would actually ship.
I think my question has been answered. Thanks
#5
Racer
besides cost/availability, a little sidewall is a good thing to. more sidewall = more forward bite. If you can, run the smallest dia wheel that'll clear your brakes
I run 18x10.5" C5Z rears because of availability/weight/price. But would run a 17x11 or 17x10.5" of the ~weight if I had a bunch of them sitting around.
I run 18x10.5" C5Z rears because of availability/weight/price. But would run a 17x11 or 17x10.5" of the ~weight if I had a bunch of them sitting around.
#6
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I have never heard that about more sidewall = more forward bite. Good to know, thanks. Just an asumption on my part, but it stands to reason, probably more rearward bite (braking bite) as well if there is such a thing.
#7
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Most all serious C6 road racers I know run 18" wheels all-around (even the Corvette Racing C6.R's run 18" wheels). As mentioned, your tire selection is vastly superior than when using 19" wheels. Also, running 18's all-around lends itself to a more level setup of your car.
#8
Drifting
cost? Selection? seems as you go bigger the cost skyrockets and selection is diminished. The cost really bothers me because the tire is not any wider, just larger dia. so the circ. is a little larger but not by much. The amount of rubber is probably within 2-5% and the cost is many times 40% more.
Ever seen the price of heavy equipment tires? Thousands of dollars each.
Check out this site for used tires... How about a set of 12, all with less than 60% tread, for the amazing low price of $210,000 How much can rubber actually cost?
http://www.findconstructionequipment...ment-Tires.htm
#9
Going 18's will also act like gears. The car accelerate much faster with the 18's. Around my track, i found that i need to stay in 2nd longer in some turns so the 18's did hurt me (bouncing off the rev limiter). I went back to the 19's in the back and it worked better for my lap times.
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weight as well
18" rims weigh less then 19" rims
18" tires are slightly less then 19" tires of the same type
Overall with an 18" rim you might be saving 2 lbs of rotational wt, which is ~ 13 lbs of static weight per rear wheel
26 lbs less of both rear wheels is quite noticeable
Less wt the car will accelerate quicker and stop faster too.
18" rims weigh less then 19" rims
18" tires are slightly less then 19" tires of the same type
Overall with an 18" rim you might be saving 2 lbs of rotational wt, which is ~ 13 lbs of static weight per rear wheel
26 lbs less of both rear wheels is quite noticeable
Less wt the car will accelerate quicker and stop faster too.
#11
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Going 18's will also act like gears. The car accelerate much faster with the 18's. Around my track, i found that i need to stay in 2nd longer in some turns so the 18's did hurt me (bouncing off the rev limiter). I went back to the 19's in the back and it worked better for my lap times.
#12
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weight as well
18" rims weigh less then 19" rims
18" tires are slightly less then 19" tires of the same type
Overall with an 18" rim you might be saving 2 lbs of rotational wt, which is ~ 13 lbs of static weight per rear wheel
26 lbs less of both rear wheels is quite noticeable
Less wt the car will accelerate quicker and stop faster too.
18" rims weigh less then 19" rims
18" tires are slightly less then 19" tires of the same type
Overall with an 18" rim you might be saving 2 lbs of rotational wt, which is ~ 13 lbs of static weight per rear wheel
26 lbs less of both rear wheels is quite noticeable
Less wt the car will accelerate quicker and stop faster too.
#13
Racer
The barrel of the wheel is a heavy part of the wheel, the closer you can tuck it closer to the axle centerline (moment of inertia) the better.
More sidewall will tolerate higher slip angles, I think the car is more forgiving and offers better feedback at the limit.
A lot of (RWD) autox guys will run a short sidewall front for transient response/turn in, and taller sidewall rears for forward bite. I have done the same (opposite!) on a FWD to get it to help rotate quicker.
More sidewall will tolerate higher slip angles, I think the car is more forgiving and offers better feedback at the limit.
A lot of (RWD) autox guys will run a short sidewall front for transient response/turn in, and taller sidewall rears for forward bite. I have done the same (opposite!) on a FWD to get it to help rotate quicker.
#14
I don't understand the gear change thing if the outside diameter of the 18" wheel tire set up is the same as the 19" wheel tire setup. Yes, you would be geared slightly lower if you use an 18" tire with less diameter and circumference. The 18" wheel tire I'm talking about is the same or very close. 345/30-19 diameter is 26.7" and the 345/35-18 diameter is 26.8" slightly larger but close. If anything the 18" tire would gear you slightly higher not lower. More sidewall on the 18" tire.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '12
Besides the cost there needs to be one more item discussed here. When running you also need to have the car tuned so it will not check for the Tire pressure sensors or have a spare set in the track wheels and a trackside tool to reset the TPS when changing wheels. If not the C6 (07) and newer will revert to limp mode thinking there is something wrong with the car. Also need to keep in mind the difference between the rake from front to rear. CCW can help on all of this.
#18
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Besides the cost there needs to be one more item discussed here. When running you also need to have the car tuned so it will not check for the Tire pressure sensors or have a spare set in the track wheels and a trackside tool to reset the TPS when changing wheels. If not the C6 (07) and newer will revert to limp mode thinking there is something wrong with the car. Also need to keep in mind the difference between the rake from front to rear. CCW can help on all of this.
#19
Race Director
availability for me personally...........I can get very good scrubs for $75 each, where-as any 19" tire is gonna cost a fortune.
I can adapt my driving better than I can adapt my wallet right now!
btw, TPSM is pretty adaptable to diameter changes, but I turn it all of anyway.
I can adapt my driving better than I can adapt my wallet right now!
btw, TPSM is pretty adaptable to diameter changes, but I turn it all of anyway.
#20
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Take a piece of 3" PVC pipe.
Drill 4 holes in and put the TPMS valves though holes and secure.
Cap the end of the PVC pipe with plumbers glue.
put 32 psi in the pipe.
place and secure in the center of the car
Then program those TPSM to your car.
we have a few guys here in Raleigh that do this.
They talked to Schrader, maker of the TPSM and bought a 100 monitors and are working on prototypes
So no more reprogramming for wheel changes.
Drill 4 holes in and put the TPMS valves though holes and secure.
Cap the end of the PVC pipe with plumbers glue.
put 32 psi in the pipe.
place and secure in the center of the car
Then program those TPSM to your car.
we have a few guys here in Raleigh that do this.
They talked to Schrader, maker of the TPSM and bought a 100 monitors and are working on prototypes
So no more reprogramming for wheel changes.