Conversation with Hoosier Tech
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Conversation with Hoosier Tech
Being a new guy of only a year and a half, I've only run a stock set up except for brakes because I wanted to invest in my driving and not throw money into mods before I reached the maximum of what I can due with a stock set up. Well it's time to step up to Hoosier R6. I contacted Hoosier and learned a few things.
1) Buying tires that are heat cycled is OK but they prefer that the tires be broken in on the track. You need the weight of the car and the real road. I know it's time consuming and the last thing that I want to do is go to the track just to break tires in.
2) tires moving on the wheels are a result of dirt on the wheels or tires, soapy water or the wheels not being in spec. They have been hearing about this problem from the Porsche people but not from us.
3) Cold tire pressure should be "28psi" and 36 psi hot, 36 hot all around as a starting point and from there play with it, meaning you may try 34psi hot rear and see how that works etc...
4) For the track, Camber front -2.7 rear -1.7
Toe front zero rear 1/8" in
1) Buying tires that are heat cycled is OK but they prefer that the tires be broken in on the track. You need the weight of the car and the real road. I know it's time consuming and the last thing that I want to do is go to the track just to break tires in.
2) tires moving on the wheels are a result of dirt on the wheels or tires, soapy water or the wheels not being in spec. They have been hearing about this problem from the Porsche people but not from us.
3) Cold tire pressure should be "28psi" and 36 psi hot, 36 hot all around as a starting point and from there play with it, meaning you may try 34psi hot rear and see how that works etc...
4) For the track, Camber front -2.7 rear -1.7
Toe front zero rear 1/8" in
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix Arizona
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Being a new guy of only a year and a half, I've only run a stock set up except for brakes because I wanted to invest in my driving and not throw money into mods before I reached the maximum of what I can due with a stock set up. Well it's time to step up to Hoosier R6. I contacted Hoosier and learned a few things.
1) Buying tires that are heat cycled is OK but they prefer that the tires be broken in on the track. You need the weight of the car and the real road. I know it's time consuming and the last thing that I want to do is go to the track just to break tires in.
2) tires moving on the wheels are a result of dirt on the wheels or tires, soapy water or the wheels not being in spec. They have been hearing about this problem from the Porsche people but not from us.
3) Cold tire pressure should be "28psi" and 36 psi hot, 36 hot all around as a starting point and from there play with it, meaning you may try 34psi hot rear and see how that works etc...
4) For the track, Camber front -2.7 rear -1.7
Toe front zero rear 1/8" in
1) Buying tires that are heat cycled is OK but they prefer that the tires be broken in on the track. You need the weight of the car and the real road. I know it's time consuming and the last thing that I want to do is go to the track just to break tires in.
2) tires moving on the wheels are a result of dirt on the wheels or tires, soapy water or the wheels not being in spec. They have been hearing about this problem from the Porsche people but not from us.
3) Cold tire pressure should be "28psi" and 36 psi hot, 36 hot all around as a starting point and from there play with it, meaning you may try 34psi hot rear and see how that works etc...
4) For the track, Camber front -2.7 rear -1.7
Toe front zero rear 1/8" in
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
#5
Melting Slicks
I don't know about the R6, but I can't imagine it's much different than the A6. 34 is a good number for the front, but I try to end up in the mid to high 20s for the rear. Your results may vary.
Testing, testing, testing...repeat.
Testing, testing, testing...repeat.
#6
Instructor
I use a HP Turner program to tune the car to run with the 60mm restrictor for SCCA and unrestricted for NASA. Do you know if you can use this program to do away with the sensors?? We were able to take out the 1-4 shifter problem.
Ed
#7
Melting Slicks
Hey Chris, are you running the tire sensors? With my 06Z06, I have to use them, and with a tire pressure below 25, I get a low tire pressure message, then the computer will not allow me to turn off both active handling and traction control.
I use a HP Turner program to tune the car to run with the 60mm restrictor for SCCA and unrestricted for NASA. Do you know if you can use this program to do away with the sensors?? We were able to take out the 1-4 shifter problem.Ed
I use a HP Turner program to tune the car to run with the 60mm restrictor for SCCA and unrestricted for NASA. Do you know if you can use this program to do away with the sensors?? We were able to take out the 1-4 shifter problem.Ed
Another option you could try would be to use a relief valve on your wheels...so you could keep the pressures the same all the time. I've heard that they have clogging and inaccuracy issues though which is why I've never fooled with them. But again, there's no need to screw with all that considering Phoenix Performance can easily fix the issue.
#8
Team Owner
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Your running mid to high 20psi for the rears hot and you don't have any problems?
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2004
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Chris, we know what starting pressures the Phoenix disciples use. And they work out just fine in racing, as you and others have amply demonstrated.
HOWEVER, you should consider that the HPDE folks, by and large, do not get the tires as hot as you hotshots do.
Therefore, a higher starting pressure is more likely to be desirable for them.
I usually recommend (and use myself) 28F/26R or 26F/24R cold pressures. This typically gives them a mid-thirties hot pressure with a slightly higher front tire pressure which seems to work very well for the typical HPDE driver, especially a newbie like the OP.
Best,
Frank GOnzalez
HOWEVER, you should consider that the HPDE folks, by and large, do not get the tires as hot as you hotshots do.
Therefore, a higher starting pressure is more likely to be desirable for them.
I usually recommend (and use myself) 28F/26R or 26F/24R cold pressures. This typically gives them a mid-thirties hot pressure with a slightly higher front tire pressure which seems to work very well for the typical HPDE driver, especially a newbie like the OP.
Best,
Frank GOnzalez
#16
Drifting
As an occasional track day guy I have an easy system for determining starting cold pressures. During your time at the track, get your hot temps where you are happy. When you get home that night, or the next morning check the cold pressure. That cold pressure should work out pretty close to the cold pressure you need to reach your desired hot pressure.
I write on my wheels the wheel location (RF, LF, etc), cold and hot pressures, and the track/use ie: RF 23 cold 36 hot Thill 7/30/09
The next time you use your track tires you'll have all the info you need.
Dog
I write on my wheels the wheel location (RF, LF, etc), cold and hot pressures, and the track/use ie: RF 23 cold 36 hot Thill 7/30/09
The next time you use your track tires you'll have all the info you need.
Dog
#18
Team Owner
your have more PSI IN YOUR DOLL FRIEND STEVE:o:o:o WHAT DOES SHE END UP HOT? HERE IS STEVE FOR HIS DOLL
Last edited by John Shiels; 12-18-2009 at 08:53 PM.
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
#20
Team Owner