Wah

I've been thinking about getting an open trailer for hauling my C6 Z06 to races and I've looked around on the internet researching. I refrained from putting up a thread asking you guys about it until today. Well, here goes.

I've narrowed it down to open trailers about 18 to 20 feet long. Then I narrowed the selections down to these 3. Please keep in mind all of them have 3.5k-lb Torflex axles, electric brakes on all four, four D-rings, 15-inch wheels, tongue jack, LED lights and a host of other standard features.

Tow vehicle is a 2003 1/2-ton Silverado 2wd with 5.3l and tow package. I believe towing capacity is around 7,000 lbs. The Z06 weighs under 3,200 lbs and other hardware is probably ~400 lbs. I believe it should be okay with any of these trailers.

1. RNR 18-ft open aluminum trailer. This thing is lightweight (1240 lbs) and it comes with a 32-inch beaver tail and two 7-foot aluminum ramps that are mounted up front, effectively forming a rock shield. I have no idea if the car could clear the ramps w/o help of wood planks. I tend to think it will since the ramps are longer than a typical ramp (5 feet). Pick-up location is a favorable 1.5 hours away and the trailer costs $4k (add $55 to make the fender removable). This is the cheapest option. Here is a picture:




2. Sloan Kwikload open steel trailer. It has an 18-foot bed that rolls back (powered by the tow vehicle, no hydraulics, no electric motor, no manual winch, not a gravity tilt bed). "Ramp" angle is very gentle at unspecified amount. It's relatively heavy at ~1900 lbs. It has two recessed lights and two integrated storage boxes. It's on "special" for $3.9k and a rock shield is $425 extra. The kicker is it's in Sherman, TX easily 1,000+ miles away from me. Delivery is $0.90 per mile. Effectively, it will cost probably almost $5.5k delivered, or I can take two days off from work to pick it up (I'd rather not). I'd probably spend about $400-500 to do that.




3. American Rollback open steel trailer. This thing has a 20-foot bed that rolls back (powered by the tow vehicle, no hydraulics, no electric motor, no manual winch, not a gravity tilt bed). "Ramp" angle is very gentle at around 5 degrees. It's relatively heavy at ~1900 lbs (probably more like ~2000 lbs). It has two recessed lights and two integrated storage boxes. This is the most expensive at $4.8k, then add $500 for a rock shield for a total of $5.3k. However, I can easily pick up at their location two hours away.




So, which one ?

CHJ In Virginia

My pick would be the aluminum trailer for weight reasons. You don't mention the tow vehicle and weight could be a very important factor. I would also find out if the trailer has removable fenders. It will make it much easier to get in and out of the car when it is in place. NO removable fenders and you will learn the joys of crawling in and out of the window.

Wah

Ok, I will update the original post. The RNR doesn't have a removable fender but the top of the fender sits 8" above deck which is what the bottom of the Z06 door height is. apparently something needs to be done, either lower the fender height slightly (an inch should do ?) or make it removable (add $55).

lbarnard

The 18' aluminum would seem to be the best choice based on size and weight. I have a 17' steel trailer and still had room to add a tool box and tire rack. Also mine dovetails in the back which makes loading and unloading easy. Not sure if the aluminum has that feature (dovetail). The removable fender for me was necessary without it I could not open the door. I have a 2002 ZO6. I tow mine with a 2007 Yukon with tow package 8000lb capacity with no problem.

Mark VerMurlen

I've seen lots of different trailers used. Out of the three you have listed, I think I'd go with the lighter aluminum one. The lighter the load on your truck the easier it will be to tow and the more comfort you will have driving it.

I had a trailer similar to your second option. It was made by H & H and had a hydraulic ram that tilted the bed. It was a big heavy trailer, but I liked it. It was nice not to have to pull out ramps and I was able to open the doors over the top of the wheel fenders. But I'm not sure the tilting bed really made it any faster to load/unload. Once you get used to either style, I think you'll be fine. I towed it with a Chevy Tahoe and there were times that it was a bit hairy to tow because of its weight.

I've seen many people bolt or screw down a few pieces of 2x12 to raise the car high enough off the deck to allow the doors to open over the wheel fenders. I think removing fenders to get in and out of the car would be a pain in the butt.

Good luck with your decision.

- Mark

gkmccready

I've seen the Sloan's in action and they are super sweet trailers. Add up your weights and see if you can handle it. I bet you can. I had a heavy wood deck open, 2400# RX7, and several hundred pounds of spares and extras loaded in the '01 Tahoe 4wd (5.3l) and pulled it no problems at all. The Z06 will be 1000# more but hopefully you're taking less spares and tools. :-)

Last C5

Just last year I bought a 17'6" X 8'6" aluminum Featherlite #3110. It has all the features you mention as well as both fenders are removable. I can drive my lowered Z06 on and off with out doing anything special and it tows like a dream. I paid $5,500 for it new and I'm happier than a clam with it. Another brand to consider.

brkntrxn

Wah,

Considering your tow vehicle, I recommend going with the aluminum trailer. The lighter weight will make it easier to tow and easier to STOP (which happens to be more important in my opinion). Until you step up to a 250/2500, you will be limited to how much weight you can safely pull and you should stick with as light a setup as possible, in my opinion.

By the way, 7' ramps are awesome. I have 6' ramps on my trailer and 7's would be even better.

95jersey

This would work, I have seen it to. Just my $0.02.

Aluminum will hold it's value better than any other trailer and you will save on gas with the lighter weight. Also, you don't have the corrosion issues with steel. I have repainted my 05 now twice and will probably have to do it again next year. It is cheap and easy to do, but definately required maintenance.

Dovetail is big for Corvette. Mine is dovetail and I still need 2 wood planks on top of eachother to clear the C6Z front splitter.

I really do like the last one as you won't have to haul around custom made ramps, it is very clean and 1900lbs is not that bad.

I bought a 16' steel trailer, primarily because it was cheap, new and local, but after owning it for 2 years, I am happy and it is light because it is open deck and short. Even with only 16', I still have plenty of room, unless you were planning on building some tire rack, I just don't personally see a need for a 20' or even 18' trailer.

I bought my 05 Bri-Mar on e-bay for $1900 (steal)...have you checked e-bay? If my only choices were in the 4k range I would buy aluminum, but if you can find a good steel trailer for under $2k, may be worth it.

c4cruiser

It looks like any of the three could work. But I would avoid the big fiberglass shield on the Sloan. The reason being that if you are considering a tire rack for race tires and wheels, it will be fairly difficult to install a rack and keep the shield.

You can always build a rack and then add some lightweight aluminum sheet to build a shield.

If it's at all possible, try to drive the car to where the trailer is and load it. Clearance will be an issue with a C5 especially if it's lowered. I have a PJ steel trailer with a 2' beavertail and the end of the trailer is about 16" off the ground when coupled to my truck. Even with my stock height 1987 C4, I have to use 6' ramps with 3' extenders to clear the transition of the beavertail to the deck.

I loaded my lowered C5 on it once and had to build 6' extender ramps to go along with my 6' aluminum ramps to get the car on it. And I had to use a 2x12 on the driver's side to raise the car to where it would let me open the door. Adding a 2x12 is no big deal and you get an extra 1.5" of clearance.

Don't worry about any included D-rings as sometimes the factory placement may not always work for a given car. You want the tie-down straps to be clear of tires and suspension components; they should be in a straight line with no twists more than a 1/4 turn. Either the front or back pair should cross sides in an "X" fashion.

You didn't mention trailer brake controllers, but get a Tekonsha "Prodigy" One of the best on the market and Tekonsha has custom wiring harnesses for nearly all trucks for a true plug and play. Your truck has a plug under the dash for a controller.

Your truck should be able to haul a 2000lb trailer and the car. I had a 99 Silverado Z71 with the early 5.3L (275HP) and 4.10 gears. It was rated for 7800 lbs and could easily haul my 5600lb towed setup. You do have to factor in all of the extra stuff you will bring when you tow. Tools, tires, equipment, the wife and/or GF, and whatever else all add up when figuring out the total gross weight.

Also, see if you can get hubs with grease fittings like Bearing-Buddy. Makes it easy to keep the bearing greased and beats doing a bearing pack each season.

SteveS66

I have a Sloan Kwikload trailer that I've used the last two years. It's a great trailer. I bought it without the fiberglass shield so I could build a tire rack. I have an '02 Z06 that is lowered and don't have any issues getting on or off the trailer. The fenders on both sides of the trailer are removeable so I can open the doors when the car is on the trailer.

Steve

Wah

Thank you for those who have chimed in.

The reason why I included the rollbacks is clearance with the trailer fender and ultimately clearance during loading/unloading. Yes, the car is very low.

Admittedly, the aluminum trailer is attractive due to its relatively low purchase price and tare weight (damn this engineering background always telling me to go with the most sensible). I do need to bring the car over to where the aluminum trailer is and try it.

Regarding hubs, I believe at least one of those three has EZ-lube hubs (I think it's the aluminum). I can always retrofit something like that with aftermarket stuff.

About rock shield. For now, a tire rack is not a priority as tires can always be carried in the truck bed. I do realize that I can probably build/attach a tire rack that will function as a rock shield. It's actually not a bad idea, two birds with one stone.

The truck is fine with any of those trailers, however, still, that's nearly 700 lbs extra weight that I don't need to tote around if the aluminum trailer fit the bill just fine. It is still nice not having to be concerned with any clearance.

I checked eBay and will continue to do so. I found a few choices of steel-decked open trailer for around $2k locally. I do have to watch out as a good portion of them come with regular leaf-sprung axles (taller deck height = higher approach angle).

I think the perfect setup is the Sloan if I don't have to pay that $1k delivery charge. Any of you coming to OH from TX ?

69427

I hauled my Corvette with this same model trailer. Great trailer. They always look good (no painting required) and they hold their value. I had mine for ten years (bought another Featherlite, but enclosed this time) and sold it (outright), returning most of my original purchase price.

TedDBere

I've used the Sloane for 5 years and love it. Spare tires go in the truck and in the Z06 too. I prefer to keep them out of the truck, but when I need three sets I have to either get a friend to bring a set in their trailer or stuff them in the truck.

I have my vettes lowered and while the air dam will rub coming on and off the trailer, it never hits the car.

Here are a couple of pictures with the AE on it:

Wah

Ah, so even a rollback doesn't guarantee that nothing would rub. I realize that the airdam rubbing is minor, however the splitter on a C6 Z06 protrudes forward quite a bit albeit at a higher altitude (not much) and it's not as flexible as the airdam. Does the rubbing occur on the middle part or the part closer to the side in front of the tires ?

The American Rollback has a couple of "stubby ramps" (i.e. the first ~2ft of the bed is notched in the middle) to clear jutting chin.

Ted, is your rock shield the same one that's sold by Sloan ?

bearnest

Texas rollback trailers. Also check trailex these are neat trailers and
you can find used one's on the pca.org forum.

LC

Trailerworld.com ..I have the 18 foot with extended ramps for my Z06.

Wah

Wow, when it comes to open aluminum trailer in 18' length, RNR price is the lowest compared to Trailex, Trailer World and Featherlite.

BrianCunningham

whatever you get, make sure you can open the door, be it fold down fender or other means.

though watching someone crawl out there rear hatch is kind of funny

Wah

Rest assured ...