F/s oem speedline c6zo6 sizes & brand new hoosiers
#1
Drifting
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F/s oem speedline c6zo6 sizes & brand new hoosiers
Oem speedlines in c6zo6 sizes comp grey mounted on brand NEW Hoosiers in oem sizes. $2300.
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Last edited by shifter77; 01-22-2010 at 06:34 PM.
#4
Do you run a camber lock-out kit on your car? Either the Pfadt or Hardbar kit? I'll let you know why I ask. It may affect what width CCW wheels you'll want to run, and what tire sizes to run, too.
Steve
Last edited by SLandstra_Z06; 01-25-2010 at 12:24 AM.
#5
I didn't have time to compose this while at the airport yesterday. I have had a couple of requests through PM's to explain my comments. So, here is a response I sent to one of my track buddies. I hope you don't mind that I am posting my response to you Dean...
Here's the deal. The way the camber kit works is that the lower control arms are locked out, creating the maximum possible negative camber. Then, the upper control arms are shimmed out to create the desired camber setting. (More shims = less negative camber) Want more negative camber? (remove shims, bringing the top of the tire closer to the frame rail)
What does all of this have to do with CCW wheel widths and tire size??? Simple, really. By locking out the lower control arms, you are effectively widening the track of the car. Think about it. With the lower control arms pushed out to the physical limit of the available adjustability, if you wanted to have zero camber, you would need to shim out the upper control arms away from the frame rails the same amount. Thus, you have effectively widened the track width of the car.
What I immediately found with my CCW 11 x 18 front wheels is that I had significant rub between the top of the tires and the fender opening, with Hoosier 315/30-18's. I had to reduce the front tire size to 295/30-18. Even so, I still have a slight amount of rub on the front 295 tires with my 11 inch wheels. This is with 3 degrees of negative camber. If I were to reduce the camber to 2.5 or 2.0 degrees, it would be worse, because again, in order to reduce camber, the top of the tire needs to move out. (top of the tire closer to the fender lip)
I have two sets of CCW C10 wheels.
Set one are:
11 x 18 Front
13 x 18 Rear
Set two are:
10.5 x 18 Front
12 x 18 Rear
I run 295/30-18 Hoosier R6 or A6 in front and 345/35-18 in rear for both sets of wheels. I don't get any rub with these tire sizes with the narrower wheel sizes. However, with the 11 inch and 13 inch wheel sizes I get a little rub in front and a very slight amount of rub in the rear. I find it mostly on tracks with sustained sweepers. At NJMP there is a banked right-hand corner that really loads up the left side suspension. That causes the worst amount of rubbing.
I have changed my suspension to T-1 springs and sway bars front and rear, with Pfadt Spherical Bearings in the control arms, this winter. That might change things for me, by not allowing the car to compress as much and roll-over as much, but it's winter and I haven't driven the car yet to see.
Let me know if anyone has any questions about my explanation.
Steve
Here's the deal. The way the camber kit works is that the lower control arms are locked out, creating the maximum possible negative camber. Then, the upper control arms are shimmed out to create the desired camber setting. (More shims = less negative camber) Want more negative camber? (remove shims, bringing the top of the tire closer to the frame rail)
What does all of this have to do with CCW wheel widths and tire size??? Simple, really. By locking out the lower control arms, you are effectively widening the track of the car. Think about it. With the lower control arms pushed out to the physical limit of the available adjustability, if you wanted to have zero camber, you would need to shim out the upper control arms away from the frame rails the same amount. Thus, you have effectively widened the track width of the car.
What I immediately found with my CCW 11 x 18 front wheels is that I had significant rub between the top of the tires and the fender opening, with Hoosier 315/30-18's. I had to reduce the front tire size to 295/30-18. Even so, I still have a slight amount of rub on the front 295 tires with my 11 inch wheels. This is with 3 degrees of negative camber. If I were to reduce the camber to 2.5 or 2.0 degrees, it would be worse, because again, in order to reduce camber, the top of the tire needs to move out. (top of the tire closer to the fender lip)
I have two sets of CCW C10 wheels.
Set one are:
11 x 18 Front
13 x 18 Rear
Set two are:
10.5 x 18 Front
12 x 18 Rear
I run 295/30-18 Hoosier R6 or A6 in front and 345/35-18 in rear for both sets of wheels. I don't get any rub with these tire sizes with the narrower wheel sizes. However, with the 11 inch and 13 inch wheel sizes I get a little rub in front and a very slight amount of rub in the rear. I find it mostly on tracks with sustained sweepers. At NJMP there is a banked right-hand corner that really loads up the left side suspension. That causes the worst amount of rubbing.
I have changed my suspension to T-1 springs and sway bars front and rear, with Pfadt Spherical Bearings in the control arms, this winter. That might change things for me, by not allowing the car to compress as much and roll-over as much, but it's winter and I haven't driven the car yet to see.
Let me know if anyone has any questions about my explanation.
Steve
Last edited by SLandstra_Z06; 01-28-2010 at 06:59 AM.
#6
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Steve, i owned a set of CCW in flat blk 18x11/18x13. I ran 295/345 Hoosiers. Now i wish i did not sell to a friend. The front could really use 18x11.
My car is corner balanced with an aggressive alignment with a set of shocks.
My car handles great, just need more front rubber. The front oem is 18x9.5, i do not like putting a wider tire on a narrow wheel.
My car is corner balanced with an aggressive alignment with a set of shocks.
My car handles great, just need more front rubber. The front oem is 18x9.5, i do not like putting a wider tire on a narrow wheel.
Last edited by shifter77; 01-25-2010 at 08:00 AM.