Column Lock Removal for a Track Car
#1
Drifting
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Column Lock Removal for a Track Car
I'm converting my '99 C5 to a track only car. I have completely removed the column lock assy and associated hardware.
I have HP Tuners and have gone in and set it for Column Lock "Not-Installed" and set the fuel cut off for 256mph. The car now runs regardless but......
The problem is I still get a "Service Column Lock" error on the DIC.
What have others done for track only cars?
Is there anyway to clear (and keep from returning) this error from the DIC?
I'm assuming I have to do something to the BCM but not sure what is the easiest cure.
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated!
I have HP Tuners and have gone in and set it for Column Lock "Not-Installed" and set the fuel cut off for 256mph. The car now runs regardless but......
The problem is I still get a "Service Column Lock" error on the DIC.
What have others done for track only cars?
Is there anyway to clear (and keep from returning) this error from the DIC?
I'm assuming I have to do something to the BCM but not sure what is the easiest cure.
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Le Mans Master
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I'm converting my '99 C5 to a track only car. I have completely removed the column lock assy and associated hardware.
I have HP Tuners and have gone in and set it for Column Lock "Not-Installed" and set the fuel cut off for 256mph. The car now runs regardless but......
The problem is I still get a "Service Column Lock" error on the DIC.
What have others done for track only cars?
Is there anyway to clear (and keep from returning) this error from the DIC?
I'm assuming I have to do something to the BCM but not sure what is the easiest cure.
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated!
I have HP Tuners and have gone in and set it for Column Lock "Not-Installed" and set the fuel cut off for 256mph. The car now runs regardless but......
The problem is I still get a "Service Column Lock" error on the DIC.
What have others done for track only cars?
Is there anyway to clear (and keep from returning) this error from the DIC?
I'm assuming I have to do something to the BCM but not sure what is the easiest cure.
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated!
#3
Melting Slicks
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Corvette's of Houston sells a bypass relay ($50) that you can plug into where to motor was plugged in and it will think the column lock is working properly.
http://www.corvettesofhouston.com/pr...products_id=54
They also have a little fix on there instructions if the "service column lock" or "pull key wait 10 sec" message comes up that you should remove the key, and fuse number 25 and number 29 from the passanger footwell fuse box, wait 1 minute and re-install. This basically resets the BCM.
Best of luck
http://www.corvettesofhouston.com/pr...products_id=54
They also have a little fix on there instructions if the "service column lock" or "pull key wait 10 sec" message comes up that you should remove the key, and fuse number 25 and number 29 from the passanger footwell fuse box, wait 1 minute and re-install. This basically resets the BCM.
Best of luck
#4
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EUREKA! I figured it out!
OK. I ended up figuring out the circuit myself and building a bypass that would allow me to completely remove the mechanism on the steering wheel. (saved 2lbs up high)
I wired it in at the Body Control Module (BCM) because I have pulled out any un-needed wire to save weight. So far I have removed about 30 lbs of wire and un-needed relays and fuses. Also by mounting the relay near the BCM I could keep that weight lower as well. (It all adds up!)
Hopefully this will help someone else.
The parts needed cost less than $17 from Newark.com including shipping and tax.
(1ea) DPDT Latching 12v Relay, you could use a SPDT but they are hard to find and usually cost more.
http://www.newark.com/magnecraft/785...lay/dp/16M1137
(2ea) 1N4001 1amp Diode
http://www.newark.com/nte-electronic...64?Ntt=10M8464
You need to find 4 wires on the BCM. There are 3 connectors. When looking at it still mounted, the bottom connector contains the A pins and the top one contains the C and D pins.
You need to locate :
A6 (purple) Unlock
A8 (orange) Lock
C15 (lt. green) CL feedback to BCM
D14 (green) time switched ground
Wire the anodes (end without the stripe) of both diodes, pin 5 (reset - ) and 7 (pole #1) of the relay all to a ground point in the car.
Wire the cathode (striped end) of 1 diode and the Orange lock wire (BCM pin A8) to pin B (set +) on the relay.
Wire the cathode (striped end) of the other diode and the Purple unlock wire (BCM pin A6) to pin 8 (reset +) on the relay.
Wire pin 1 of the relay (normally open #1) to the lt. green wire (BCM pin C15)
Wire pin A of the relay (set -) to the green wire (BCM pin D14)
If wired like described, then the timing will work and the BCM will get the position information at the right time. It is possible to get the position reference ground triggered to soon and this will give you the "Pull Key and wait 10 sec. message, darn computer is just a little to smart.
If you don't use D14 and just wire to the ground in the car, like some people have described or shown you will get the "Pull Key " message intermittently.
This is the reset described in the post above.
I wired it in at the Body Control Module (BCM) because I have pulled out any un-needed wire to save weight. So far I have removed about 30 lbs of wire and un-needed relays and fuses. Also by mounting the relay near the BCM I could keep that weight lower as well. (It all adds up!)
Hopefully this will help someone else.
The parts needed cost less than $17 from Newark.com including shipping and tax.
(1ea) DPDT Latching 12v Relay, you could use a SPDT but they are hard to find and usually cost more.
http://www.newark.com/magnecraft/785...lay/dp/16M1137
(2ea) 1N4001 1amp Diode
http://www.newark.com/nte-electronic...64?Ntt=10M8464
You need to find 4 wires on the BCM. There are 3 connectors. When looking at it still mounted, the bottom connector contains the A pins and the top one contains the C and D pins.
You need to locate :
A6 (purple) Unlock
A8 (orange) Lock
C15 (lt. green) CL feedback to BCM
D14 (green) time switched ground
Wire the anodes (end without the stripe) of both diodes, pin 5 (reset - ) and 7 (pole #1) of the relay all to a ground point in the car.
Wire the cathode (striped end) of 1 diode and the Orange lock wire (BCM pin A8) to pin B (set +) on the relay.
Wire the cathode (striped end) of the other diode and the Purple unlock wire (BCM pin A6) to pin 8 (reset +) on the relay.
Wire pin 1 of the relay (normally open #1) to the lt. green wire (BCM pin C15)
Wire pin A of the relay (set -) to the green wire (BCM pin D14)
If wired like described, then the timing will work and the BCM will get the position information at the right time. It is possible to get the position reference ground triggered to soon and this will give you the "Pull Key and wait 10 sec. message, darn computer is just a little to smart.
If you don't use D14 and just wire to the ground in the car, like some people have described or shown you will get the "Pull Key " message intermittently.
This is the reset described in the post above.
Last edited by geerookie; 02-03-2010 at 05:42 PM. Reason: typo's
#7
Drifting
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When I removed the CL, I also removed the windshield wiper switch.
I just wired the wipers to a 2-way switch on my dash. Now I don't accidently turn on the wipers either:o
I just wired the wipers to a 2-way switch on my dash. Now I don't accidently turn on the wipers either:o
#8
Do you think you can figure out a way to wire the traction control switch so that TC is always off? Sometimes I forget to turn it off and I'm feeling for a switch in the heat of battle after I have lost a position for being stupid yet again!
#10
Drifting
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I am so electronics "dumb"! Which wires can you by pass to do that? Are you using a single pole double throw switch you mean (3 position switch)? I'm running a grant removable steering hub w/o a spacer. Sometimes I hit my wipers too. I need that modification too. I actually tried to heat and bend one of those stalks but there is metal in there or something and I could not bend it away from my hand.
Do you think you can figure out a way to wire the traction control switch so that TC is always off? Sometimes I forget to turn it off and I'm feeling for a switch in the heat of battle after I have lost a position for being stupid yet again!
Do you think you can figure out a way to wire the traction control switch so that TC is always off? Sometimes I forget to turn it off and I'm feeling for a switch in the heat of battle after I have lost a position for being stupid yet again!
TC off is pretty easy. The problem is turning TC and AH off. I haven't figured out how to do it yet and still have the ability to turn it back on if wanted. Disabling both is simple but then you can't use it anymore.
I will also do a post about TC/AH when/if I figure it out. Should be soon.
#11
Melting Slicks
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On/Off switch. Figure you will only need high. But you have to wire in a resistor cause the wipers do that 'pop up from the cowling' thing when you turn them on, then pull back down when you shut them off.
It's simple... i'll show you next time.
You gonna make willow?
#12
Melting Slicks
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TC off is pretty easy. The problem is turning TC and AH off. I haven't figured out how to do it yet and still have the ability to turn it back on if wanted.
Disabling both is simple
but then you can't use it anymore.
I will also do a post about TC/AH when/if I figure it out. Should be soon.
How? doesnt the fuse kill ABS also?
#13
Drifting
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Yes the fuse kills both/all.
I don't know of a fuse to just disable TC/AH only. TCS and ABS are very integrated.
There are a few ways to disable AH without affecting ABS.
If you want to disable AH only you can unplug the YAW sensor (under/behind the AC controls in the dash) or the Lateral Accelorometer (under the passenger seat). Doing this will leave TC and ABS working. These are removed in my car.
You can short the brown/white wire of the TC switch to ground and keep it that way. This will disable TC as long as you had it on when you shorted the wire to ground. If it was off it will be turned on until the short to ground is removed.
You can disable torque managment with a tuner program but I still haven't figured out if you can disable TCS.
I don't know of a fuse to just disable TC/AH only. TCS and ABS are very integrated.
There are a few ways to disable AH without affecting ABS.
If you want to disable AH only you can unplug the YAW sensor (under/behind the AC controls in the dash) or the Lateral Accelorometer (under the passenger seat). Doing this will leave TC and ABS working. These are removed in my car.
You can short the brown/white wire of the TC switch to ground and keep it that way. This will disable TC as long as you had it on when you shorted the wire to ground. If it was off it will be turned on until the short to ground is removed.
You can disable torque managment with a tuner program but I still haven't figured out if you can disable TCS.
#14
Melting Slicks
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There are a few ways to disable AH without affecting ABS.
If you want to disable AH only you can unplug the YAW sensor or the Lateral Accelorometer. Doing this will leave TC and ABS working.
You can short the brown/white wire of the TC switch to ground and keep it that way. This will disable TC as long as you had it on when you shorted the wire to ground. If it was off it will be turned on until the short to ground is removed.
If you want to disable AH only you can unplug the YAW sensor or the Lateral Accelorometer. Doing this will leave TC and ABS working.
You can short the brown/white wire of the TC switch to ground and keep it that way. This will disable TC as long as you had it on when you shorted the wire to ground. If it was off it will be turned on until the short to ground is removed.
you cant
#15
Drifting
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Since TCS is actually off the icon on the dash will be lit unless you program it not to light.
#16
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#18
Safety Car
Anyway, since it just holds the button when you turn on the power, your actual AH/TC button works after that should you want to turn stuff back on for any reason.
#19
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Didn't ATI offer a circuit with a 555 timer that effective held down the button automagically when you turned the car on? The guy that sells the InvisiCords for the radar detectors has built such a circuit for himself but didn't seem keen to productize it...
Anyway, since it just holds the button when you turn on the power, your actual AH/TC button works after that should you want to turn stuff back on for any reason.
Anyway, since it just holds the button when you turn on the power, your actual AH/TC button works after that should you want to turn stuff back on for any reason.
I'm looking for a simpler solution than the 555 circuit.
I'm going to try and do something with a relay. I just have to find the right internal circuit in the car to do the timing for me.
It would be really cool if I could make it work off the unused side of the relay I used to solve the CL problem!
A few beers and a little time in the shop this weekend, then maybe