Who is racing a Z06 w NASA ?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Who is racing a Z06 w NASA ?
Thinking of buying a $30k C6 Z w high miles and take her racing. My 07 Blue Z is too pretty to race wheel to wheel so she just does HPDE
Its time to do some real racing
What do you have to do to the Z to race w NASA ?
I imagine they are not wild about katech engines
Thanks
Its time to do some real racing
What do you have to do to the Z to race w NASA ?
I imagine they are not wild about katech engines
Thanks
#2
Le Mans Master
Put in an approved roll bar, a master cutoff switch, a right side net, a fire extinguisher and you're good to go.
The C6Z would probably race in the NASA ST-1 class. 5.5 to 1 weight to horsepower ratio. That's the class most of them run in that I know of.
The C6Z would probably race in the NASA ST-1 class. 5.5 to 1 weight to horsepower ratio. That's the class most of them run in that I know of.
#3
Race Director
if you are paying your entry fees, they don't give a damn who builds your engine. Any C6Z06 should run in ST1, but wouldn't be near the limits without either shaving around 800lbs off or adding 125hp (Katech would work nicely here). You would want Aero if you want to be competitive nationally, but if you just want to have fun all you need is the safety gear.
Cage, seat, harnesses, fire system etc.
Cage, seat, harnesses, fire system etc.
#5
Burning Brakes
I agree with all above!
If your new to this, I would advise to not put a lot of horsepower in the car as first. If there is high miles on the car, get a new rearend. The rearend losses positraction after 30,000 miles. I seen it a couple of times and had my own accident from a failed posi-unit. Use Redline lubricants in everything except the engine (Mobile1), and go over every nut and bolt to make sure you have a safe car. You won't regret it.
D.J. Covert
NASA-Az 2008 TTS Champion
NASA Intstructor
If your new to this, I would advise to not put a lot of horsepower in the car as first. If there is high miles on the car, get a new rearend. The rearend losses positraction after 30,000 miles. I seen it a couple of times and had my own accident from a failed posi-unit. Use Redline lubricants in everything except the engine (Mobile1), and go over every nut and bolt to make sure you have a safe car. You won't regret it.
D.J. Covert
NASA-Az 2008 TTS Champion
NASA Intstructor
#6
"Thinking of buying a $30k C6 Z w high miles and take her racing. "
Just remember that the C6 has the aluminum frame,so putting a cage in the car will be more expensive than caging a steel framed one. I would get some quotes before purchasing the car. Give Phoenix a call as they have done a few C6 Z06 and ZR1 cages.
Also, I haven't looked into the latest feedback, but how is the stock drysump system when used for all out racing? I was under the impression that by the time the car is gutted and racing parts are swapped in that most of the "special" Z06 parts get put in the scrap bin (brakes,wheels,springs/shocks come to mind) and that you may be better off starting with a cheaper Z51 car. Then swap the larger fenders to cover race rubber. With that you would get the steel chassis for an easy cage install and future repairs( not that you can't splice alum.,but steel repair parts are easier to get and you don't have to be some aerospace cert. welder to get a safe repair)
Just my thoughts, what are some others???
Just remember that the C6 has the aluminum frame,so putting a cage in the car will be more expensive than caging a steel framed one. I would get some quotes before purchasing the car. Give Phoenix a call as they have done a few C6 Z06 and ZR1 cages.
Also, I haven't looked into the latest feedback, but how is the stock drysump system when used for all out racing? I was under the impression that by the time the car is gutted and racing parts are swapped in that most of the "special" Z06 parts get put in the scrap bin (brakes,wheels,springs/shocks come to mind) and that you may be better off starting with a cheaper Z51 car. Then swap the larger fenders to cover race rubber. With that you would get the steel chassis for an easy cage install and future repairs( not that you can't splice alum.,but steel repair parts are easier to get and you don't have to be some aerospace cert. welder to get a safe repair)
Just my thoughts, what are some others???
#7
Team Owner
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Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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For $30,000 and a bit more you can by a race prepared C5Z.
The cost of conversion of a C6Z to race might cost you $30,000 or more alone.
Putting a roll cage in a C6Z is very expensive with the aluminum frame.
The cost of conversion of a C6Z to race might cost you $30,000 or more alone.
Putting a roll cage in a C6Z is very expensive with the aluminum frame.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Yes the stock sump is not up to the task. I have a Lingenfelter in my 07 Katech Z
I also know about the aluminum frame, Thanks for reminding me
Got to count my pennies and see if it makes more sense to just finish paying off my GT1 car or start a fresh project
I also know about the aluminum frame, Thanks for reminding me
Got to count my pennies and see if it makes more sense to just finish paying off my GT1 car or start a fresh project
#9
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W. Detroit Events Coordinator
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Come and play, NASA loves Katech engine I also believe they can do a nice cage.
Between Katech & Vector (across the street) you can have one mean ST1 car
& if you're sending it up here I would also be happy to shake it down for you
Between Katech & Vector (across the street) you can have one mean ST1 car
& if you're sending it up here I would also be happy to shake it down for you