Road Coarse/Daily Driver LSA
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Road Coarse/Daily Driver LSA
Hey racers, first time posting up here, been in C5 gen and tech, but never here. Shoulda come here before I pulled the trigger but didn't.
Any way, got the the G5X3 on a 114 for the broad torque band.
Already had the long tubes and x, the CAI, and 4.10:1 gears in my '01 Z.
Figured the 114 would make for smoother cornering in S's and hair pins.
Should I swap in the 112 and sell the 114?
Here's my track:http://www.arroyosecoraceway.com/images/track2.jpg
Occasionally I do take it down the 1/4. I'm trying to get my car to be tri-athelte. I know there are always compromises.
Oh yeah, I got the AFR 205 with 2.02/1.6" and 66 cc chambers when I got the cam. My friend with TRex cam who uses it as a daily driver said I should have gone with the 225's, but I think he's crazy for using the TRex on a DD.
Any way, got the the G5X3 on a 114 for the broad torque band.
Already had the long tubes and x, the CAI, and 4.10:1 gears in my '01 Z.
Figured the 114 would make for smoother cornering in S's and hair pins.
Should I swap in the 112 and sell the 114?
Here's my track:http://www.arroyosecoraceway.com/images/track2.jpg
Occasionally I do take it down the 1/4. I'm trying to get my car to be tri-athelte. I know there are always compromises.
Oh yeah, I got the AFR 205 with 2.02/1.6" and 66 cc chambers when I got the cam. My friend with TRex cam who uses it as a daily driver said I should have gone with the 225's, but I think he's crazy for using the TRex on a DD.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
i would not be concerned about the cams LSA. Most ppl run stock cams, 117.5 LSA and are very very quick
the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.
4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.
and no there really is not tri-athelte car.
Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )
Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades
Good Luck
the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.
4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.
and no there really is not tri-athelte car.
Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )
Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades
Good Luck
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would not be concerned about the cams LSA. Most ppl run stock cams, 117.5 LSA and are very very quick
the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.
4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.
and no there really is not tri-athelte car.
Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )
Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades
Good Luck
the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.
4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.
and no there really is not tri-athelte car.
Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )
Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades
Good Luck
I was thinking about the coolers, but all my friends have drag cams and I've liked the lope since I was a kid.:o
As for the brakes, I was going to put full ducts tied to my tie rods after I got slotted rotors all around and ceramic pads. Going to buy a second set of pads and bring 'em to the track just in case. Read that in an article some where way back.
See how much money is left over after the 6pt, harness, and suit. Maybe get coolers and radiators next year.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I've heard you can get an over heat message in the DIC, but I've never had it happen to me yet. We'll see how it goes with the 4.10's.
I was thinking about the coolers, but all my friends have drag cams and I've liked the lope since I was a kid.:o
As for the brakes, I was going to put full ducts tied to my tie rods after I got slotted rotors all around and ceramic pads. Going to buy a second set of pads and bring 'em to the track just in case. Read that in an article some where way back.
See how much money is left over after the 6pt, harness, and suit. Maybe get coolers and radiators next year.
I was thinking about the coolers, but all my friends have drag cams and I've liked the lope since I was a kid.:o
As for the brakes, I was going to put full ducts tied to my tie rods after I got slotted rotors all around and ceramic pads. Going to buy a second set of pads and bring 'em to the track just in case. Read that in an article some where way back.
See how much money is left over after the 6pt, harness, and suit. Maybe get coolers and radiators next year.
Love the lope myself, but in most cases the stock cam is just fine. or if you have the G5X3 cam in leave it.
Use what you have.
Ceramic brake pads have to go. They DO NOT STOP YOUR CAR WITH CHIT. Ceramic street brake pads and ceramic race pads are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. Need some good Stock C5Z pads. or better yet some race pads.
There really is no combination race / track pad. Some ppl like the Hawk HP+, not the HPs. Hawk DTC-70s are far better, but not a street pad.
Other ppl like the Carbotech XP12 for the front and the XP10 for the rear. WHICH ARE A CERAMIC RACE PAD. IRRC these can be used on the street some what.
Some ppl like one pad and really dislike another brake pad. Personal preference and braking style.
#5
Safety Car
For the MN12 and road course:
4.10 is too steep for 2.97 1st. And the 2.07 2nd isn't steep enough. You will be better off going back to a 3.42. That's what I did with my 4.10 and MN12. FWIW.
4.10 is too steep for 2.97 1st. And the 2.07 2nd isn't steep enough. You will be better off going back to a 3.42. That's what I did with my 4.10 and MN12. FWIW.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Love the lope myself, but in most cases the stock cam is just fine. or if you have the G5X3 cam in leave it.
Use what you have.
Ceramic brake pads have to go. They DO NOT STOP YOUR CAR WITH CHIT. Ceramic street brake pads and ceramic race pads are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. Need some good Stock C5Z pads. or better yet some race pads.
There really is no combination race / track pad. Some ppl like the Hawk HP+, not the HPs. Hawk DTC-70s are far better, but not a street pad.
Other ppl like the Carbotech XP12 for the front and the XP10 for the rear. WHICH ARE A CERAMIC RACE PAD. IRRC these can be used on the street some what.
Some ppl like one pad and really dislike another brake pad. Personal preference and braking style.
Use what you have.
Ceramic brake pads have to go. They DO NOT STOP YOUR CAR WITH CHIT. Ceramic street brake pads and ceramic race pads are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. Need some good Stock C5Z pads. or better yet some race pads.
There really is no combination race / track pad. Some ppl like the Hawk HP+, not the HPs. Hawk DTC-70s are far better, but not a street pad.
Other ppl like the Carbotech XP12 for the front and the XP10 for the rear. WHICH ARE A CERAMIC RACE PAD. IRRC these can be used on the street some what.
Some ppl like one pad and really dislike another brake pad. Personal preference and braking style.
Bink, when I had the stock gears, I always had a hard time coming out of the tight turns in second, going back to first was always hard for me to rev match. I was hoping I could just leave it in second now and use my gears and new found torque to get out of the corners, with out getting side ways. That's my theory, any way. Let ya know if it works.
#8
Pro
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Hmmm..., guess I'll try replacing the old stockers for some new stockers. Then putting in some ceramic race pads at the track, then putting in the stockers before the ride home.
Bink, when I had the stock gears, I always had a hard time coming out of the tight turns in second, going back to first was always hard for me to rev match. I was hoping I could just leave it in second now and use my gears and new found torque to get out of the corners, with out getting side ways. That's my theory, any way. Let ya know if it works.
Bink, when I had the stock gears, I always had a hard time coming out of the tight turns in second, going back to first was always hard for me to rev match. I was hoping I could just leave it in second now and use my gears and new found torque to get out of the corners, with out getting side ways. That's my theory, any way. Let ya know if it works.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LO3NDvQkh0
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#13
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
That's why I put up a pic of my track. From the start line to the first turn, I only get up to third. I was on street tires. No way to take the turns in 3rd and 4th. Slowed down to about 25 MPH on most of those tight turns. Faster and it would not turn, just push. Braked and cranked the wheel and it just kept going with no change of direction. Only get to fourth on the long straight, which is back up the shut down of the drag strip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LO3NDvQkh0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LO3NDvQkh0
Might think about a good aggressive street alignment if you dont already have one.
the alignment will help with corners and tire wear on the track.
an alignment, seat time and you will be running that whole track mostly in 3rd gear. Even some of those corners, your in 2nd now, might be taken faster in 3rd gear with an alignment, seat time and changing your line slightly too accommodate higher speeds
Good Luck
#14
Burning Brakes
#15
once it hits around 275, you will get a warning and trans temp will be displayed on DIC display until you reset it. there is no way to pull up the temp until this happens, but you can keep trans temp showing after the warning as long as you want (even after turning the car off and back on) once overtemp warning threshold is reached.
#16
Pro
once it hits around 275, you will get a warning and trans temp will be displayed on DIC display until you reset it. there is no way to pull up the temp until this happens, but you can keep trans temp showing after the warning as long as you want (even after turning the car off and back on) once overtemp warning threshold is reached.
#17
Safety Car
I've run a 106 on the street in heavy traffic many times. Never a problem with idle or brakes. Never a problem at the track. FWIW.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good Vid
Might think about a good aggressive street alignment if you dont already have one.
the alignment will help with corners and tire wear on the track.
an alignment, seat time and you will be running that whole track mostly in 3rd gear. Even some of those corners, your in 2nd now, might be taken faster in 3rd gear with an alignment, seat time and changing your line slightly too accommodate higher speeds
Good Luck
Might think about a good aggressive street alignment if you dont already have one.
the alignment will help with corners and tire wear on the track.
an alignment, seat time and you will be running that whole track mostly in 3rd gear. Even some of those corners, your in 2nd now, might be taken faster in 3rd gear with an alignment, seat time and changing your line slightly too accommodate higher speeds
Good Luck
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After I left LG and headed down to Houston, I got caught in heavy traffic that felt like leaving the parking lot of a NASCAR race. I felt the vacuum drop way down, I had to start stepping on the brakes like I had no assist. I drove a '69 nova with no booster, so I know how that feels. Wouldn't want to be in that situation in a race.
#20
Safety Car
After I left LG and headed down to Houston, I got caught in heavy traffic that felt like leaving the parking lot of a NASCAR race. I felt the vacuum drop way down, I had to start stepping on the brakes like I had no assist. I drove a '69 nova with no booster, so I know how that feels. Wouldn't want to be in that situation in a race.