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Road Coarse/Daily Driver LSA

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Old 02-06-2010, 02:44 PM
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Castrellon
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Default Road Coarse/Daily Driver LSA

Hey racers, first time posting up here, been in C5 gen and tech, but never here. Shoulda come here before I pulled the trigger but didn't.
Any way, got the the G5X3 on a 114 for the broad torque band.
Already had the long tubes and x, the CAI, and 4.10:1 gears in my '01 Z.
Figured the 114 would make for smoother cornering in S's and hair pins.
Should I swap in the 112 and sell the 114?
Here's my track:http://www.arroyosecoraceway.com/images/track2.jpg
Occasionally I do take it down the 1/4. I'm trying to get my car to be tri-athelte. I know there are always compromises.
Oh yeah, I got the AFR 205 with 2.02/1.6" and 66 cc chambers when I got the cam. My friend with TRex cam who uses it as a daily driver said I should have gone with the 225's, but I think he's crazy for using the TRex on a DD.
Old 02-06-2010, 06:48 PM
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AU N EGL
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i would not be concerned about the cams LSA. Most ppl run stock cams, 117.5 LSA and are very very quick

the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.

4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.

and no there really is not tri-athelte car.

Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )

Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades

Good Luck
Old 02-07-2010, 04:14 AM
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Castrellon
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
i would not be concerned about the cams LSA. Most ppl run stock cams, 117.5 LSA and are very very quick

the 4.10s will be the bigger challenge.

4.10s are great for drag racing, but are under geared for road racing with a MN12 in the Z. ie shift too much sp acceleration suffers and run out of gearing. Shifting too much also causes over heating.

and no there really is not tri-athelte car.

Remember tri-athletes do three events because they are not very good at ONE event.
( former Olympic Cycling coach here )

Do several events and just see how things go.
In most cases money for brake pads, brake fluid, bigger radiator, oil and trans coolers, Seat and harness would be the better choice for upgrades

Good Luck
I've heard you can get an over heat message in the DIC, but I've never had it happen to me yet. We'll see how it goes with the 4.10's.
I was thinking about the coolers, but all my friends have drag cams and I've liked the lope since I was a kid.:o
As for the brakes, I was going to put full ducts tied to my tie rods after I got slotted rotors all around and ceramic pads. Going to buy a second set of pads and bring 'em to the track just in case. Read that in an article some where way back.
See how much money is left over after the 6pt, harness, and suit. Maybe get coolers and radiators next year.
Old 02-07-2010, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Castrellon
I've heard you can get an over heat message in the DIC, but I've never had it happen to me yet. We'll see how it goes with the 4.10's.
I was thinking about the coolers, but all my friends have drag cams and I've liked the lope since I was a kid.:o
As for the brakes, I was going to put full ducts tied to my tie rods after I got slotted rotors all around and ceramic pads. Going to buy a second set of pads and bring 'em to the track just in case. Read that in an article some where way back.
See how much money is left over after the 6pt, harness, and suit. Maybe get coolers and radiators next year.

Love the lope myself, but in most cases the stock cam is just fine. or if you have the G5X3 cam in leave it.

Use what you have.

Ceramic brake pads have to go. They DO NOT STOP YOUR CAR WITH CHIT. Ceramic street brake pads and ceramic race pads are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. Need some good Stock C5Z pads. or better yet some race pads.

There really is no combination race / track pad. Some ppl like the Hawk HP+, not the HPs. Hawk DTC-70s are far better, but not a street pad.

Other ppl like the Carbotech XP12 for the front and the XP10 for the rear. WHICH ARE A CERAMIC RACE PAD. IRRC these can be used on the street some what.

Some ppl like one pad and really dislike another brake pad. Personal preference and braking style.
Old 02-07-2010, 10:53 AM
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For the MN12 and road course:

4.10 is too steep for 2.97 1st. And the 2.07 2nd isn't steep enough. You will be better off going back to a 3.42. That's what I did with my 4.10 and MN12. FWIW.
Old 02-07-2010, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Love the lope myself, but in most cases the stock cam is just fine. or if you have the G5X3 cam in leave it.

Use what you have.

Ceramic brake pads have to go. They DO NOT STOP YOUR CAR WITH CHIT. Ceramic street brake pads and ceramic race pads are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. Need some good Stock C5Z pads. or better yet some race pads.

There really is no combination race / track pad. Some ppl like the Hawk HP+, not the HPs. Hawk DTC-70s are far better, but not a street pad.

Other ppl like the Carbotech XP12 for the front and the XP10 for the rear. WHICH ARE A CERAMIC RACE PAD. IRRC these can be used on the street some what.

Some ppl like one pad and really dislike another brake pad. Personal preference and braking style.
Hmmm..., guess I'll try replacing the old stockers for some new stockers. Then putting in some ceramic race pads at the track, then putting in the stockers before the ride home.

Bink, when I had the stock gears, I always had a hard time coming out of the tight turns in second, going back to first was always hard for me to rev match. I was hoping I could just leave it in second now and use my gears and new found torque to get out of the corners, with out getting side ways. That's my theory, any way. Let ya know if it works.
Old 02-07-2010, 03:57 PM
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Bit of a thread jack, but does anyone know at what temp the "High Trans Temp" warning on the DIC comes on?
Old 02-07-2010, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by stevensa
Bit of a thread jack, but does anyone know at what temp the "High Trans Temp" warning on the DIC comes on?
On my C5Z06, it has come on when the DIC says the tans temp was in the 270-275 degF range.
Old 02-07-2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Castrellon
Hmmm..., guess I'll try replacing the old stockers for some new stockers. Then putting in some ceramic race pads at the track, then putting in the stockers before the ride home.

Bink, when I had the stock gears, I always had a hard time coming out of the tight turns in second, going back to first was always hard for me to rev match. I was hoping I could just leave it in second now and use my gears and new found torque to get out of the corners, with out getting side ways. That's my theory, any way. Let ya know if it works.
Most road course you will use 3rd and 4th only. Almost never 2nd unless there is traffic or a very very tight corner. ie if your in 2nd your going to slow through that corner.
Old 02-08-2010, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Most road course you will use 3rd and 4th only. Almost never 2nd unless there is traffic or a very very tight corner. ie if your in 2nd your going to slow through that corner.
That's why I put up a pic of my track. From the start line to the first turn, I only get up to third. I was on street tires. No way to take the turns in 3rd and 4th. Slowed down to about 25 MPH on most of those tight turns. Faster and it would not turn, just push. Braked and cranked the wheel and it just kept going with no change of direction. Only get to fourth on the long straight, which is back up the shut down of the drag strip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LO3NDvQkh0
Old 02-08-2010, 12:35 AM
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my first C5Z had a 224/224 .581 lift cam on a 114 LSA. I loved it.
Old 02-08-2010, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
my first C5Z had a 224/224 .581 lift cam on a 114 LSA. I loved it.
Cool. Also forgot to mention I went with the 114 because it's got more vacuum at idle and that's important for power brakes in heavy traffic jams and repeated braking in short road courses like ASR.
Old 02-08-2010, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Castrellon
That's why I put up a pic of my track. From the start line to the first turn, I only get up to third. I was on street tires. No way to take the turns in 3rd and 4th. Slowed down to about 25 MPH on most of those tight turns. Faster and it would not turn, just push. Braked and cranked the wheel and it just kept going with no change of direction. Only get to fourth on the long straight, which is back up the shut down of the drag strip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LO3NDvQkh0
Good Vid

Might think about a good aggressive street alignment if you dont already have one.

the alignment will help with corners and tire wear on the track.

an alignment, seat time and you will be running that whole track mostly in 3rd gear. Even some of those corners, your in 2nd now, might be taken faster in 3rd gear with an alignment, seat time and changing your line slightly too accommodate higher speeds

Good Luck
Old 02-08-2010, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MySR71
On my C5Z06, it has come on when the DIC says the tans temp was in the 270-275 degF range.
Your DIC displays trans temp? On my 02 z06 I only have oil temp, coolant temp, batt volts, and oil pressure displayed with the gauges option. Is there something I don't know about?
Old 02-08-2010, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by stevensa
Your DIC displays trans temp? On my 02 z06 I only have oil temp, coolant temp, batt volts, and oil pressure displayed with the gauges option. Is there something I don't know about?
once it hits around 275, you will get a warning and trans temp will be displayed on DIC display until you reset it. there is no way to pull up the temp until this happens, but you can keep trans temp showing after the warning as long as you want (even after turning the car off and back on) once overtemp warning threshold is reached.
Old 02-08-2010, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by longdaddy
once it hits around 275, you will get a warning and trans temp will be displayed on DIC display until you reset it. there is no way to pull up the temp until this happens, but you can keep trans temp showing after the warning as long as you want (even after turning the car off and back on) once overtemp warning threshold is reached.
But like was said above, once you hit reset to show some other parameter, you can't get back to the trans temp until you overheat it again.
Old 02-08-2010, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Castrellon
Cool. Also forgot to mention I went with the 114 because it's got more vacuum at idle and that's important for power brakes in heavy traffic jams and repeated braking in short road courses like ASR.
I've run a 106 on the street in heavy traffic many times. Never a problem with idle or brakes. Never a problem at the track. FWIW.

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Old 02-08-2010, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Good Vid

Might think about a good aggressive street alignment if you dont already have one.

the alignment will help with corners and tire wear on the track.

an alignment, seat time and you will be running that whole track mostly in 3rd gear. Even some of those corners, your in 2nd now, might be taken faster in 3rd gear with an alignment, seat time and changing your line slightly too accommodate higher speeds

Good Luck
Is there a thread here for this "aggressive street alignment" you speak of, specific to C5Z?
Old 02-08-2010, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bink
I've run a 106 on the street in heavy traffic many times. Never a problem with idle or brakes. Never a problem at the track. FWIW.
After I left LG and headed down to Houston, I got caught in heavy traffic that felt like leaving the parking lot of a NASCAR race. I felt the vacuum drop way down, I had to start stepping on the brakes like I had no assist. I drove a '69 nova with no booster, so I know how that feels. Wouldn't want to be in that situation in a race.
Old 02-08-2010, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Castrellon
After I left LG and headed down to Houston, I got caught in heavy traffic that felt like leaving the parking lot of a NASCAR race. I felt the vacuum drop way down, I had to start stepping on the brakes like I had no assist. I drove a '69 nova with no booster, so I know how that feels. Wouldn't want to be in that situation in a race.
I'd have the brakes ckecked.....fluid, master etc.


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