Advice on T1 Sway install needed.
#1
Burning Brakes
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Advice on T1 Sway install needed.
right top rear bolt threads in by finger a couple turns then feels real hard like some threads are screwed up. I tried loosening all four bracket bolts. Then took the bolt on the right side (hard one) and treaded it into the left. Seems fine over there. Looked at the other bolt from the left and it looks perfect. Tried it in the right and same thing. The threads inside the crossmember look pretty shiny like they may be jacked up.
Should I just muscle it in?
Tighten the three and take it to my mechanic?
Other advise?
Thanks in advance. I'm admittantly a bit mechanically challenged.
Should I just muscle it in?
Tighten the three and take it to my mechanic?
Other advise?
Thanks in advance. I'm admittantly a bit mechanically challenged.
#4
You have screwed up threads inside that last hole. Do not force it!!! Ask me how I know...
Instead, you need to "chase" the threads with a tap. I don't know the tap size, but just bring one of the bolts with you to a NAPA or Autozone and let them help you choose the right tap.
Good luck.
Steve
Instead, you need to "chase" the threads with a tap. I don't know the tap size, but just bring one of the bolts with you to a NAPA or Autozone and let them help you choose the right tap.
Good luck.
Steve
Last edited by SLandstra_Z06; 02-07-2010 at 04:24 PM.
#7
Like the others said run a tap through the hole. If the threads are really screwed up you will have to get a helicoil. You will have to drill it out to the requested helicoil tap size, run the helicoil tap down the hole, and screw in the helicoil. After your all done you can use the stock bolt as long as the threads are OK.
#8
Burning Brakes
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I got a tap and die set and have been giving it a try. The tap gets tight and force it a bit past that point, then work it back out and find some alum shavings. Try the bolt and get a bit further, then gets real hard. Repeated this three times and looking like it will take hours with the exhuast still hooked up as I have to keep taking the tap handle off to reposition and turn. Looks like would have to tap all the way through and this bolt has over two inches of thread. Thinking I would rather spend $100 to my shop than spend all day on this.
#9
You are on the right track. Keep working the tap, or better yet a thread chaser, into the threads until you get the threads fixed far enough to turn the bolt in all the way and to the proper torque. Do not over torque the bolt, because you're running a steel bolt into an aluminum cradle and can strip out the aluminum threads if you over torque the bolt. If the threads strip out, the only fix is to put in a helicoil as described in another post.
Be careful and good luck.
Be careful and good luck.
Last edited by SLandstra_Z06; 02-07-2010 at 04:45 PM.
#10
Race Director
I got a tap and die set and have been giving it a try. The tap gets tight and force it a bit past that point, then work it back out and find some alum shavings. Try the bolt and get a bit further, then gets real hard. Repeated this three times and looking like it will take hours with the exhuast still hooked up as I have to keep taking the tap handle off to reposition and turn. Looks like would have to tap all the way through and this bolt has over two inches of thread. Thinking I would rather spend $100 to my shop than spend all day on this.
Switch out the bolt for one of the "good" ones that has not been crossed. Should not need to rr exhaust. The correct tool is actually a thread chaser which is different from a tap. The thread chaser reforms threads that are not too far gone. The tap cuts, so you have to be careful with a tap. Also make damn sure the tap is 100% squared off to the hole. It will try to get "cocked" and follow the path of least resistance. I did use a tap and was successful.
You probably did not cross all the way to the end of the hole (unless you gunned it on with an air tool), so once you get thru the crossed part the tap will turn easier.
You can do it. For a helicoil you will very likely need to remove exhaust so it's worth trying hard to do this yourself. When you chase a threaded hole with a tap you are making the tolerances bigger, so maybe back off the torque spec a little & use a couple of drops med. locktite to secure it when done.
imo
Last edited by froggy47; 02-07-2010 at 04:45 PM.
#11
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#12
Race Director
http://www.bikernet.com/jims/PageViewer.asp?PageID=2282
Here is a link to some sae thread chasers.
The one Slandstra posted is for spark plug hole threads.
You should be able to do it with the tap if you go slow & careful, but if you cut a new set of threads you will not be able to tighten a bolt in the hole & will need to go helicoil.
It's probably easier to find helicoil than find thread chasers (locally) unless you order online & wait for delivery. Locally I could not even find anyone who knew what a thread chaser was.
Here is a link to some sae thread chasers.
The one Slandstra posted is for spark plug hole threads.
You should be able to do it with the tap if you go slow & careful, but if you cut a new set of threads you will not be able to tighten a bolt in the hole & will need to go helicoil.
It's probably easier to find helicoil than find thread chasers (locally) unless you order online & wait for delivery. Locally I could not even find anyone who knew what a thread chaser was.
Last edited by froggy47; 02-07-2010 at 05:27 PM.
#16
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So what have I learned. First I put the bracket bolt on loose just to hold it, then I did the endlinks, then I tigthened the two left bolts and moved over to this one. It really seems kind of poor to me (slower for sure), but I guess when dealing with aluminum, get everything threading in straight before tightening anything.