C5Lion

I have read quite a few posts on this subject but I have a few additional questions and would like reassuance on a few things. I am looking to switch my car from a street setup to a track setup when I go to the track. I know a number of you are doing this. I appreciate your feedback.

Background info

• I am running Hoosier R6 tires on stock wheels. The new set I just bought are 345/30s in the back and 285/30s in the front. I actually wanted 295s but there was some communication issues between me and the tire guy so I think I am going to be stuck with the 285s. I wanted 295/30s. I hope I do not have any problems with the tire size difference and the computer.
• Currently my car has more of a street alignment. The front tires have about -1.5 degrees of camber. It is also toed out about 1/16". The rears I think are between -0.75 and -1. The eccentrics were moved to get this alignment. They were marked at the time and nothing has moved.
• My car was aligned to these specs about 2 years ago. At that time I was only running street tires.

1. My car still has 4 washers up front behind my upper A arms. I removed 2 yesterday from just 1 tire and I seemed to gain about 1 degree of negative camber. Is this the general rule for each washer you get 1/2 of negative camber? Each washer is 0.095" thick. If my alignment is -1.5 then removing 4 washers will give me over -3 of camber or very close to it.
2. When I checked the toe after removing the washers I now was toed out by about 3/16" so I assume if I removed washers on both tires I would have been toed out 3/8". Does this seem about right?
3. How much will I have to adjust the toe rods to get my toe back to 1/16" or 1/8"?
4. How much does 1 revolution of the rod translate into toe change?
5. Is it just as easy as loosing the nut on the toe rod and tightening the rod?
6. What is a good compromise for the rear camber? I'd rather not have to play with this each time I go to the track. My last set of Hoosiers wore very evenly across the rear tires. The fronts wore heavily on the outer edge due to a lack of camber.

Lastly I am measuring this stuff using very basic equipment. Similar to what I have read on David Farmers website. I don't have a lift so the car comes up and down off of a jack and then everything gets remeasured.

davidfarmer

In my experience, 2 washers should only give around 1/2 degree camber change. 1 "flat" (1/6 of a turn) of the tie-rod end is less than 1/32". I usually count 3 flats as 1/16" of an inch as a general rule. Yes, just loosen the lock nut and tighten the tie rod in.

You will have to measure the actual toe and adjust based on that.

I personally run -2.0deg front and -1.5 rear on my track/street car. As long as you keep the toe pretty tame (1/32" out front, 1/16" in rear) tire wear is very good. However, if your rear tires are wearing good, leave them like they are unless you find that dialing in more camber in the front causes an oversteer condition.

C5Lion

Are you sure about the 2 washers making up 1/2 degree. I have read a few old posts where they said that each washer gives you 1/2 degree.

davidfarmer

You may be right. I haven't don't one this way in a while. Quick math seems to indicated that it should only be half a degree, but now my memory seems to tell me that it was indeed close to a full degree.

Regardless, you got what you got, and the actual measurement is what's important.

Funny, on my personal car, I took out 2 washers front and 1 washer rear, BUT I can't remember what the original measurement was (over 3 years ago now). 90% of the jobs I do still use the concentrics so I don't have to remove the wheels and jack the car between measurements.

Z06pack

I have always run the stock allignment on my 07 z06 as I only do 1 or 2 events a year. I am now getting a little more serious, as I produced some very heavy wear on the outside fronts of my hoosier R-6's at my last event.
Since I will be having an allignment shop do my allignment, I will obviously have to provide them with allignment specs.
It appears that 2 degrees negative seems to be the set up for the front. Is it also nessessary to be sure the rears are set up at 1.5 as well? My rears seem to be wearing very well and evenly.
Sice most of my driving is on the street, can I leave the toe alone?
Finally, do I need to but special washers or are these standard fare for an allignment shop.
Thank you for your help gents.

C5Lion

The washers are already behind the upper A arms so all you have to do is remove them. I have 4 washers on the front A arm and 2 on the rears. I don't think 1.5 in the rear is necessary. I ran at -.75 last year and my rear Hoosiers wore fine. I am going with close to 3 in the front.

rikhek

Poor-sha

I'm running a camber kit on mine but I remove 3 washers to go from -1.5 to -2.8 in the front. I can't remember but I think it's 1 1/4 turns of the tie rod to adjust toe but I always end up dorking with this a bit after measuring.

BTW, I'd go with at least -2.5 front to keep from wearing the outside of the Hoosiers. I'm running -1.5 rear street and track.

Superbee

i had 1.5 camber front with 1/16 toe out, had 1 camber rear with 1/16 toe in
removed two washers in front and one in the rear and went to 2.5 camber front with 3/8 toe out and 1.5 camber rear with 1/16 toe out
Adjusted front tie rods 3/4 turn each to get zero toe and adjusted rear 1/4+ to get back to 1/16 toe in rear
Works great on the track with Hoosiers and drives fine on the street. I believe you would have to put lots of cruising miles on to damage your street tires with this set up.
You do need to adjust the toe if you are switching back and forth or it will hunt all over the road.
Keep in mind all my setting are made personally in the garage with toe plates and tape measures.

Good Luck