michaelkrelina

I have been wandering how to relubricate the bushings after installation, as regular follow up maintenance.
I have purchased some zerks with 1/4 - 28 taper thread.
(Is this self tapping?)

The split control arm bushings - do they leave a space between the 2 halves, in the center? Will the silicone lubricant spread from the zerk to the inner surface of the bushing (and not lubricate the outer surface as an unwanted side effect)?
Is it practical to enlarge the groves in the bushings and to use the widened grove to inject silicone lubricant with a needle directly to the inner surface of the bushing 1-2 years after the initial installation, as follow up maintenance?

randy814u

michaelkrelina

Just to clarify: I have purchased but not yet installed the bushings.
I have read concerns on CF about bushings binding. To protect against this problem I'd like to install greese nipples (zerks) in places where this is possible. In places where this is not possible I'd like to widen the lubrication grooves for subsequent needle injections of silicone based lubricant.
I will not be installing the bushings until I have additional input on these potentially problematic issues.
Any input will be appreciated.

SouthernSon

Poly bushings need the sticky type lubricant that should not need as much maintenance as regular lithium base grease. FWIW, my polys have run about 20 track days and are showing some wear and loosening. I expect I'll have to replace in another year or two so the lubricant that Pfadt has provided should last long enough. The wear is not associated with lubricant but rather chafing into the frame mounts/A arm barrels on the ends.

If you don't have the Pfadt lube, I understand that there is a marine 'blue' type lube that will suffice.

These are my first polys so I am not, by any means, the definitive source on all things poly.

beerkat

I have poly bushing in my control arms. They are not Pfadt. After living with them for a season I took them out and re-lubed them. they came out fairly easy. I used a white lithium grease and mixed in powdered graphite. No squeaks this time and so far it been about a year.

TmillerC5

Just installed my PFADT polys over the weekend. The lube they send is serious stuff, wear some disposable gloves as it sticks to everything. We got as much as we could in them. The fittings are real tight, so a fair amount get pushed out on the install. Don't have a feel for if I will have to relube(hope not) as some of the "a" arms are really really tight on reinstall.
Good Luck.
Tim

rfn026

Someone needs to compare the various Poly bushings with a durometer. In know Energy Susupension makes the softest bushings. Vette Brakes bushings are much hard. Who knows where PFADT are.

Anyone want to try this?

Richard Newton

michaelkrelina

Thanks for the responses. I will continue to do research and will share.
M

ajg1915

I did the pfadt's and zert fittings on my buddy Zenak's car, over the winter.

Hopefully we'll get some feedback during the season.

GOTHAM VETTE

Tony,

What type of grease are you guys planning to use?

ajg1915

Hi Matt,

You can use regular grease or marine lube. Since there are zert fittings on everything it's rather easy to service.

Check the brake pads and fill the grease. when you're out doing HPDE's

GOTHAM VETTE

Sounds like my VW I drove in University

I think this will be one of my next projects.

Sherminator

Some hints to installing these:
-try to press the stockers out vs melting them out; much cleaner and easier on parts; we have a press at the shop and various pushing and supporting devices to get it done.
-once they're out clean up the bushing bore in the arms with some scotch brite or similar to get rid of the remaining rubber
-use some rubbing alcohol, brake cleaner, etc to clean the bore before pushing in the new ones
-use a vise with a flat plate on the poly side and a "larger than the bushing diameter" socket or similar on the other side to press them in.
-when pushing in the new ones, don't use anything like oil or grease to lube up the outside; if they're supported well they have enough slickness to slide in by themselves; it might take a few tries to get them as they like to deflect away; a pair of big channel lock pliers work well to get the lip to start as you're pushing.
-lube up everything that is going to move; energy suspension lube is good for some extra if you run out.

TJM

DO NOT MELT THEM OUT!!!!!!! That aluminum will be ruined and the strength compromised.

You can get a "Loaner" Ball Joint C clamp from Advanced Auto [ at least here in Ga?].

Best tool in the world. It worked great, especially with a 150psi air wrench!!!

If your racing you might consider the Derlin Types.

TJM