Got my new brakes!
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Got my new brakes!
So I pulled the trigger on a new brake kit. Even though these brakes have been a little controversial on this forum, for several reasons I went with the Wilwood W6A kit from TCE Performance. TCE makes a custom kit that utilizes the C6Z OEM rotors. Basically it is a custom made bracket with APR studs that allows the caliper to mount in the OEM position. This solution appealed to me for several reasons, but the most important being rotor replacement cost compared to traditional BBK's (Brembo/Stoptech). I wanted a solution that was up to the task, but would reduce running costs, not increase them, otherwise I would have stayed with the OEM set up.
I have used Wilwood products in the past (SL6) and have had VERY good results, so based on my personal experience, I have confidence the product is of high quality. I also ordered them with the Thermolock pistions which are renknown in the industry.
Took a few pics to show you the caliper in more detail. The Thermolock pistions are nothing short of pieces of art. The entire caliper makes the OEM caliper look like something cast in a 3rd world country. Like stated before, not thrilled with the clips, but for me it wasn't a deal breaker.
So far they actually feel better even on the street...instant & firm pedal, less pedal pressure required to slow the car down. I am using BP10 compound for the street and H for the track. I will get a chance to really test them out in May and will follow up on how they work at the track.
I have used Wilwood products in the past (SL6) and have had VERY good results, so based on my personal experience, I have confidence the product is of high quality. I also ordered them with the Thermolock pistions which are renknown in the industry.
Took a few pics to show you the caliper in more detail. The Thermolock pistions are nothing short of pieces of art. The entire caliper makes the OEM caliper look like something cast in a 3rd world country. Like stated before, not thrilled with the clips, but for me it wasn't a deal breaker.
So far they actually feel better even on the street...instant & firm pedal, less pedal pressure required to slow the car down. I am using BP10 compound for the street and H for the track. I will get a chance to really test them out in May and will follow up on how they work at the track.
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Very If I were to do a BBK those would be the calipers I would get. It looks stronger than the SL6 but not as wide as a full width caliper.
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#5
Team Owner
Put them in the bathroom and take a picture
Hope to see them work this year or should I say make them work.
Keep them polished up. Look great. Report when using them.
How much if you don't mine me asking?
Hope to see them work this year or should I say make them work.
Keep them polished up. Look great. Report when using them.
How much if you don't mine me asking?
Last edited by John Shiels; 03-19-2010 at 04:37 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I am just SOOOO HAPPY to not have to deal with those pins and paddlets.
#12
Former Vendor
Not exactly.....
The GNIII is based upon a supersized Superlite caliper. The width of 2.67 includes the stiffening rib alone of .500 in width. Removing that nets you the 2.17 dimension similar to that of any BSL/FSL class caliper. The rib was put in place to compensate for the additional length of the caliper when it was stretched.
The W6a caliper has a body of 2.21 width but no stiffening rib. It also has somewhat thinner pads than the GNIII part of .800 vs .670.
Taking all that into account the W6a caliper is actually pretty darn close in body size but without the (oft removed for wheel clearance) big rib. Granted the thinner pads won't last quite as long however.
Bigger issue however: a GNIII does not fit a 14" rotor. You can 'push' it to about 13.6 max before the pads no longer fit. The W6a is designed for 12.2 to 14.5" size.
The GNIII is based upon a supersized Superlite caliper. The width of 2.67 includes the stiffening rib alone of .500 in width. Removing that nets you the 2.17 dimension similar to that of any BSL/FSL class caliper. The rib was put in place to compensate for the additional length of the caliper when it was stretched.
The W6a caliper has a body of 2.21 width but no stiffening rib. It also has somewhat thinner pads than the GNIII part of .800 vs .670.
Taking all that into account the W6a caliper is actually pretty darn close in body size but without the (oft removed for wheel clearance) big rib. Granted the thinner pads won't last quite as long however.
Bigger issue however: a GNIII does not fit a 14" rotor. You can 'push' it to about 13.6 max before the pads no longer fit. The W6a is designed for 12.2 to 14.5" size.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,861
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Not exactly.....
The GNIII is based upon a supersized Superlite caliper. The width of 2.67 includes the stiffening rib alone of .500 in width. Removing that nets you the 2.17 dimension similar to that of any BSL/FSL class caliper. The rib was put in place to compensate for the additional length of the caliper when it was stretched.
The W6a caliper has a body of 2.21 width but no stiffening rib. It also has somewhat thinner pads than the GNIII part of .800 vs .670.
Taking all that into account the W6a caliper is actually pretty darn close in body size but without the (oft removed for wheel clearance) big rib. Granted the thinner pads won't last quite as long however.
Bigger issue however: a GNIII does not fit a 14" rotor. You can 'push' it to about 13.6 max before the pads no longer fit. The W6a is designed for 12.2 to 14.5" size.
The GNIII is based upon a supersized Superlite caliper. The width of 2.67 includes the stiffening rib alone of .500 in width. Removing that nets you the 2.17 dimension similar to that of any BSL/FSL class caliper. The rib was put in place to compensate for the additional length of the caliper when it was stretched.
The W6a caliper has a body of 2.21 width but no stiffening rib. It also has somewhat thinner pads than the GNIII part of .800 vs .670.
Taking all that into account the W6a caliper is actually pretty darn close in body size but without the (oft removed for wheel clearance) big rib. Granted the thinner pads won't last quite as long however.
Bigger issue however: a GNIII does not fit a 14" rotor. You can 'push' it to about 13.6 max before the pads no longer fit. The W6a is designed for 12.2 to 14.5" size.
#15
Team Owner
#17
Team Owner
#18
Former Vendor
The concept here was not to try and provide a "superior" product but rather an alternative for the more hard track day user. The complaints about oe pad wear and costs being the driving force. How bad the problem is depends, like a lot of things, on who you speak with an their take on it.
With some snazzy thinking and some quick disconnect couplers one could actually use the oe calipers and drilled rotors on the street, and swap in the alternates by way of two bolts and solid rotors for the track in about 20min. !
#19
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
The problems with the OEM caliper are the following:
1) The pins strip after only a few pad changes, which means you eventually have to remove the caliper. Which drastically increases the time and you constantly have to remove and re-torque 150ft lb bolts.
2) If you go with one piece pads, you will still have to remove the caliper to change the pads (see #1)
3) OEM Calipers EAT paddlets and one piece pads at essentially the same rate (the one piece may last an extra day, but cost another $80+ over paddlets, so it is almost pointless)
4) If you are like me and your car is dual duty (street/track), you may change pads out something like a DOZEN times a season. Now imagine doing that with 12 paddlets and having to break your knuckles re-torqueing 150ft lb bolts 24 times!!
5) The cost of pads for the W6A is less than 1/2 the price of OEM pads and based on history with the SL6, will last about 4-5 times as long.
Basically the Caliper will pay for itself in about 2-3 years and save a tremendous amount of time for the track enthusiast.
Ask me how I know all of this...