Solo2GS

I know there are a few on here who are successfully running Pfadt shocks that auto-x. I am interested in hearing some what kind of settings you are running with them. A good starting point as we don't have any test-n-tune events and the 3-4 runs a month just aren't giving me much to go on in finding a good setup with them!

froggy47

Joy of 6

I would call Aaron first for an ideal starting set up.

Solo2GS

I know there are a few on here that were doing quite well in SS with the shock & front bar setup last year. I'd be interested in hearing from them.

mountainbiker2

Just last week I was running 14f 12r. That was from full soft counted toward stiffer setting. No bump stops. The coarse was all transitions. For most tracks, I've been between 10-13f. 6-8r. You mentioned in your email about understeer. Try a little swaybar in the front. I'm running a 28.5mm bar. (Z51). Can you list your total setup?

Steve A.

froggy47

I run about what Steve does, but very dependent on how good my tires are. The better the tires the stiffer I go.

A few weeks ago at a practice I was having trouble with mid corner push on a medium speed sweeper.

I got a multi time nat'l champ to ride with me & he said my driving was good & the car was giving it's front grip up mid corner. He said stiffen the front (this is mostly rebound setting) so I went from 10 to 12 to 16 (max) and I'll be a sob if it didn't stick really good on 16. The full stiff rebound was keeping the front down enough to get me thru the corner.

I am thinking (for autox anyway) that the P's are a little soft & want to be at the high end of the range settings to work.

Solo2GS

Opps.. meant understeer. The challenge seems to be keeping the front end stuck to the ground!

I did change the Hotchkiss bar back to the middle setting (from the softest) this weekend for the next event and will have to try going stiffer, even if it doesn't seem to like it would help, just to see... Just seemed like when I went stiffer up front I got worse!

TedDBere

Shocks work in transition. Mid corner push is usually anything but shock problem because it's a steady state issue (sway bar, tire pressures, not enough front camber, etc). Soften the front bar. If you wanted to increase grip on the front you should either soften the front end or tighten the rear.

froggy47

I know what you are saying, but as God is my witness, this WORKED.

Just passing on what worked for me. My passanger said he could notice the front end of the car raising up as I fed in some throttle & I just needed about 1/2 sec more stick to get thru the (off camber) turn. This is not a lab or textbook example, it's real world (West lot) driving, sometimes they differ.

Have you ever heard of the "Daddio Down" shock settings.

I believe it's named after a guy (Marc Daddio?) who dialed in max rebound on some DA shocks & would get his car to compress down on the suspension & practically never come back up for the whole solo run?

I guess his alignment was set for the down position & it worked like a champ.

Anyway that's third or forth hand & I don't know the guy, but since I went with the setting on my car (tire dependent) I have zero push. Even on worn 275's. Driver/braking push I pretty much have dialed out.

My cold tire oversteer loops are legend however, gotta work on that.

TedDBere

Daddio used to run here on the east coast and he's a great driver, but his cars are all modified with springs that would break your back on the street. He does drive them to and from events though. Since his springs are so strong his shocks aren't really doing anything anyway so setting them to "jack down the car" is probably his way to lower the CG on the car beyond what he can achieve with allowed adjustments.

Setting the rebound high will "jack down the car", but once you get on the bumpstops you've eliminated the shocks ability to do their job. You're actually using the shocks to act like springs. I bet your car feels better, but may actually be slower.

But in the end it's whatever works for you but with the stock springs I don't really feel you want the shocks to jack down the car because your weight transfer will be nearly instantaneous and your grip will be reduced in transitions.

Good luck though!

Pylons

C6 Z51 here...with an Addco 35mm hollow front bar

-2.0 or so camber front; -1.1 rear. zero toe both ends

we've settled on 8 up front and just 2 in the rear...

froggy47

dgoetz

I have been running Pfadt shocks and SS sway bar for 2 yrs on my 04 ZO6 and have tried just about every position and sway bar setting there is. When I first stared with them the car was worse then the stk stuff. I had lots of under steer with the recomended starting set up. I am running 295 and 315 A6's with the sway bar in the stiffest setting and the frt shocks in 5 or 6 from full soft depending on the sufface and 8 at the rear. The car is lowered, cross weighted and with a Maximum autocross alignment. If condition are extremly slippery I might even soften the frt one more click.

thehammer69

When my car was setup basically Super Stock with 32mm hollow addco in front, my Pfadts seemed to work well with about 5-6 in front and 11 in rear.

when I installed a C6 Z51 sway bar to rear, rear shocks worked better around 7-8.

when i put 315's on front...I think front shocks were bumped to 8

I now have a 35mm VB&P hollow bar on front and run around 7-8 in front and 6-7 in rear.