PFADT Shock Settings for Track
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
PFADT Shock Settings for Track
Guys,
Had the new PFADT Shocks at Watkins Glen last week. Does anyone have settings they like for the Glen or other tracks? I set them with the initial recommendations (10f/10r) and lost some overall lap time from using the stocks.
Thanks in advance!
Had the new PFADT Shocks at Watkins Glen last week. Does anyone have settings they like for the Glen or other tracks? I set them with the initial recommendations (10f/10r) and lost some overall lap time from using the stocks.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Goose Creek SC
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you need to customize the setting for your car setup.
So, let me ask you this, what is the car doing that is causing the slower laps times? This answer will be one key in the puzzle to find the right settings.
So, let me ask you this, what is the car doing that is causing the slower laps times? This answer will be one key in the puzzle to find the right settings.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply.
Car seems stable. The rear was a bit twitchy, so I dialed out 1 turn in rear and took a couple of pounds out. Day started cold so the tires probably had too much pressure hot. The shocks have been great as far as control and ride. I sense the track more, but maybe I am just not pushing as much.
I haven't found a good guide to how the settings compare to stock, so I don't know if I should dial up front or dial down rear.
Car seems stable. The rear was a bit twitchy, so I dialed out 1 turn in rear and took a couple of pounds out. Day started cold so the tires probably had too much pressure hot. The shocks have been great as far as control and ride. I sense the track more, but maybe I am just not pushing as much.
I haven't found a good guide to how the settings compare to stock, so I don't know if I should dial up front or dial down rear.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Thanks for the reply.
Car seems stable. The rear was a bit twitchy, so I dialed out 1 turn in rear and took a couple of pounds out. Day started cold so the tires probably had too much pressure hot. The shocks have been great as far as control and ride. I sense the track more, but maybe I am just not pushing as much.
I haven't found a good guide to how the settings compare to stock, so I don't know if I should dial up front or dial down rear.
Car seems stable. The rear was a bit twitchy, so I dialed out 1 turn in rear and took a couple of pounds out. Day started cold so the tires probably had too much pressure hot. The shocks have been great as far as control and ride. I sense the track more, but maybe I am just not pushing as much.
I haven't found a good guide to how the settings compare to stock, so I don't know if I should dial up front or dial down rear.
If the rear seems loose...then dialing down the settings would be the proper way to do it.
And not that this is a direct correlation...but my C5Z on yesterdays autocross running a old 315's in front and "sticker" 315's in back using a front VB&P 35mm tubular bar and a C6Z51 rear bar had the following settings:
Front: 8 (I'm not 100% sure if it's 8, it might be 7)
Rear: 7
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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Our T1 car is set at 12 front and 8 rear, was at 11 front but the car felt darty under hard braking at Road America so we went up to 12. That's with Hoosier A6 315's all around T1 springs and bars.
#6
When it's cold, or slippery or gritty, I'd run them way softer, like 7 and 7 tops. Even then it might be too stiff.
10 and 10 and up is probably best for hot, grippy conditions and/or for cars with very stiff front and rear bars.
10 and 10 and up is probably best for hot, grippy conditions and/or for cars with very stiff front and rear bars.