Dry Sump in a C5??
05-06-2010, 09:33 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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Dry Sump in a C5??
School me ... Looking for input from people who have done this.
My understanding is not to get the C6Z dry sump as its not really the best example of a dry sump so what have you used?
I also understand that I will need to relocate the battery in order to fit the oil tank and I will also lose A/C.
So what have you done?
Thanks guys
Steve
My understanding is not to get the C6Z dry sump as its not really the best example of a dry sump so what have you used?
I also understand that I will need to relocate the battery in order to fit the oil tank and I will also lose A/C.
So what have you done?
Thanks guys
Steve
05-06-2010, 11:11 PM
#3
If you are serious about doing it, i've just been down this path...from battery relocation to full drysump setup. Budget...$4k.
If you have a built motor, you've already pulled the pin on your motor and without a drysump that motor isn't going to last. That is, unless you baby the car around the track. If you are serious then it's the only way to go.
Chuck
If you have a built motor, you've already pulled the pin on your motor and without a drysump that motor isn't going to last. That is, unless you baby the car around the track. If you are serious then it's the only way to go.
Chuck
05-06-2010, 11:13 PM
#4
Pro
If you are serious about doing it, i've just been down this path...from battery relocation to full drysump setup. Budget...$4k.
If you have a built motor, you've already pulled the pin on your motor and without a drysump that motor isn't going to last. That is, unless you baby the car around the track. If you are serious then it's the only way to go.
Chuck
If you have a built motor, you've already pulled the pin on your motor and without a drysump that motor isn't going to last. That is, unless you baby the car around the track. If you are serious then it's the only way to go.
Chuck
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-plumbing.html
05-07-2010, 01:38 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
You'll be spending a pretty penny, mostly on plumbing which can get very crazy.
I have the ARE 3+1 system for LS1/6 in corvette.
No A/C, and my tank is mounted in my trunk on a steel platform tied to the frame rails. The oil catch-can/puke can thing sits in my right hand side of my bumper, tucked up just ever so close to the muffler. I was having H/C install so my engine was already dropped which made pinning a non-worry cost wise.
I've done the following tweaks to make my life a lil easier.
1) Cut a hole in the trunk floor well right underneath tank's bottom nut. I have a hose directly leading to it from underneath the car so I can drain the tank instantly.
2) Modularized the system so I can drop my entire drivetrain with 0 worries about lines interfering. My lines hug against the block and torque tube and come in through that funky fake spare wheel well in the trunk. YMMV when it comes to your headers an engine mounts though. I went solid mounts made of scrap steel with some careful radiusing of subframe to clear the fittings on the pump.
And budget 1.5 what you think it will cost.
I have the ARE 3+1 system for LS1/6 in corvette.
No A/C, and my tank is mounted in my trunk on a steel platform tied to the frame rails. The oil catch-can/puke can thing sits in my right hand side of my bumper, tucked up just ever so close to the muffler. I was having H/C install so my engine was already dropped which made pinning a non-worry cost wise.
I've done the following tweaks to make my life a lil easier.
1) Cut a hole in the trunk floor well right underneath tank's bottom nut. I have a hose directly leading to it from underneath the car so I can drain the tank instantly.
2) Modularized the system so I can drop my entire drivetrain with 0 worries about lines interfering. My lines hug against the block and torque tube and come in through that funky fake spare wheel well in the trunk. YMMV when it comes to your headers an engine mounts though. I went solid mounts made of scrap steel with some careful radiusing of subframe to clear the fittings on the pump.
And budget 1.5 what you think it will cost.
05-07-2010, 08:20 AM
#6
Safety Car
You'll be spending a pretty penny, mostly on plumbing which can get very crazy.
I have the ARE 3+1 system for LS1/6 in corvette.
No A/C, and my tank is mounted in my trunk on a steel platform tied to the frame rails. The oil catch-can/puke can thing sits in my right hand side of my bumper, tucked up just ever so close to the muffler. I was having H/C install so my engine was already dropped which made pinning a non-worry cost wise.
I've done the following tweaks to make my life a lil easier.
1) Cut a hole in the trunk floor well right underneath tank's bottom nut. I have a hose directly leading to it from underneath the car so I can drain the tank instantly.
2) Modularized the system so I can drop my entire drivetrain with 0 worries about lines interfering. My lines hug against the block and torque tube and come in through that funky fake spare wheel well in the trunk. YMMV when it comes to your headers an engine mounts though. I went solid mounts made of scrap steel with some careful radiusing of subframe to clear the fittings on the pump.
And budget 1.5 what you think it will cost.
I have the ARE 3+1 system for LS1/6 in corvette.
No A/C, and my tank is mounted in my trunk on a steel platform tied to the frame rails. The oil catch-can/puke can thing sits in my right hand side of my bumper, tucked up just ever so close to the muffler. I was having H/C install so my engine was already dropped which made pinning a non-worry cost wise.
I've done the following tweaks to make my life a lil easier.
1) Cut a hole in the trunk floor well right underneath tank's bottom nut. I have a hose directly leading to it from underneath the car so I can drain the tank instantly.
2) Modularized the system so I can drop my entire drivetrain with 0 worries about lines interfering. My lines hug against the block and torque tube and come in through that funky fake spare wheel well in the trunk. YMMV when it comes to your headers an engine mounts though. I went solid mounts made of scrap steel with some careful radiusing of subframe to clear the fittings on the pump.
And budget 1.5 what you think it will cost.
05-07-2010, 03:41 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Here's what I am going to do for my 442ci LS7:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-pan-now.html
http://www.lsxtv.com/forum/milodons-...-pan-1936.html
They are still in the pre-production phase but they should be done any day now. I think it should work well...we will see.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-pan-now.html
http://www.lsxtv.com/forum/milodons-...-pan-1936.html
They are still in the pre-production phase but they should be done any day now. I think it should work well...we will see.
05-07-2010, 11:33 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
PA Z06,
I'll try and snag some much better pictures next time I'm at the shop.
But here's some, these are way old. But you can kinda get the idea of the routing of stuff.
I'll try and snag some much better pictures next time I'm at the shop.
But here's some, these are way old. But you can kinda get the idea of the routing of stuff.
Last edited by OKsweetrides; 05-07-2010 at 11:42 PM.
05-08-2010, 12:12 AM
#9
Drifting
1st question is are you planning on racing with a group that has a rule book? If you plan on running with SCCA in T1 there are restrictions that makes it a bit harder to stuff the tank in the battery location but it does fit. I do my own lines and I am not too proud to use used parts. My last complete system cost 1 K used. It was a trunk mounted system and came with lots of lines, T1 spec pump and pan. I might have spent another 500 but I do all the work. Do not forget to remove the dip stick and tube and plug the hole. I used a screw in plug. I did cheat and pulled front fenders including the glued on inner fender. Heat gun is your tool to get the inner fender off. I did drill locator holes so I could get the fender locations right.
If you do not have rules think about where you run the HOT oil lines. I use -12 from pan to pump and then -12 to oil tank. I use -8 for remote filter and cooler lines. Check ebay for lines.
Good luck
If you do not have rules think about where you run the HOT oil lines. I use -12 from pan to pump and then -12 to oil tank. I use -8 for remote filter and cooler lines. Check ebay for lines.
Good luck
