Accusump Questions..
#1
Burning Brakes
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Accusump Questions..
I'm installing accusump in 09 C6 vette and wanted to know if anyone else has done it and if so what switch they are useing (30-35) and were they mounted it at and what size they used. I know it is not as good as a dry sump but I just need for some insurance and I'm only running street tires to keep the cornering G's down..If you have pics of the mounted accusump please attach..
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Drifting
I've got one in my '06 C6.
I had a performance shop install mine. They found enough space inside the back of the right front fender, but even so there was only enough space for the 2 quart size. I'm afraid the performance shop didn't take any pictures while they were installing mine, and you can't see it at all now.
I've heard that some folks were able to put a 3 quart size in there, but they had to move the PCM module (or some circuit board) a few inches to make it fit.
Some would disagree with this next thing and some would agree. I recommend you NOT use a pressure actuated switch/valve. You might not like the pressure setting you choose, and a complicated switch/valve is more likely to fail than a simple one.
I recommend a simple on/off switch/valve wired into the ignition switch. When the engine is on, the valve is fully open. Engine off, valve closed. When the pressure in the accusump is higher than the engine oil pressure, the sump will provide more oil to the engine. When the accusump's pressure is lower, then it will take in a little more oil from the engine. This tends to smooth out oil pressure changes, and when the engine needs more oil it is always there.
Another side-benefit of using a simple switch/valve is you can tell the accusump to dump its oil into the engine when the engine is not turning. Just switch on the ignition without starting the engine. (On a six-speed, the starter solenoid will not engage if the clutch pedal is not depressed.) Since the oil pump is generating zero oil pressure when the engine is off, the accusump will empty all its oil into the engine.
So:
1. You can pre-oil before startup if you want to.
2. It's easy to get all the oil out of the system (including the accusump) when changing the oil.
Tell the folks changing your oil about switching on the ignition, but not starting the engine, to empty the accusump. Also tell them to put in 1.5 quarts more than the Owner's Manual states to account for the amount that will go into the accusump. Then do not rev up the engine for a few seconds after the first time you start it. This will prevent aerating the extra oil in the pan until it has flowed into the accusump.
I've heard that some folks were able to put a 3 quart size in there, but they had to move the PCM module (or some circuit board) a few inches to make it fit.
Some would disagree with this next thing and some would agree. I recommend you NOT use a pressure actuated switch/valve. You might not like the pressure setting you choose, and a complicated switch/valve is more likely to fail than a simple one.
I recommend a simple on/off switch/valve wired into the ignition switch. When the engine is on, the valve is fully open. Engine off, valve closed. When the pressure in the accusump is higher than the engine oil pressure, the sump will provide more oil to the engine. When the accusump's pressure is lower, then it will take in a little more oil from the engine. This tends to smooth out oil pressure changes, and when the engine needs more oil it is always there.
Another side-benefit of using a simple switch/valve is you can tell the accusump to dump its oil into the engine when the engine is not turning. Just switch on the ignition without starting the engine. (On a six-speed, the starter solenoid will not engage if the clutch pedal is not depressed.) Since the oil pump is generating zero oil pressure when the engine is off, the accusump will empty all its oil into the engine.
So:
1. You can pre-oil before startup if you want to.
2. It's easy to get all the oil out of the system (including the accusump) when changing the oil.
Tell the folks changing your oil about switching on the ignition, but not starting the engine, to empty the accusump. Also tell them to put in 1.5 quarts more than the Owner's Manual states to account for the amount that will go into the accusump. Then do not rev up the engine for a few seconds after the first time you start it. This will prevent aerating the extra oil in the pan until it has flowed into the accusump.
Last edited by bobmoore2; 06-21-2010 at 01:12 AM.
#3
Before the pressure switch actuated electric valves were avaiable I saw a few engines actually blow up from oiling issues. I was told the electric valve always on restricts oil going back into the accusump or someting like that. The users were told the electric valve is more for street use and then switched to a manual valve with better results. Now that the pressure switch is available that is no longer an issue because, as I understand it, the accusump fills with the switch closed without restriction. The advantage of a pressure actuated switch is that the oil is released into the motor at full operating pressure when needed so it gets to where it needs to go as fast as possible then shuts off and allows the oil pump to do its job as well as re-fill the accusump (hopefully before another hard corner comes up). With a manual valve that advantage is taken away and the accusump only provides a few extra quarts of oil, but without full pressure behind them.
Here's some additional info:
Pressure in the accusump can never get above the engines maximum operating oil psi. That is what fills it.
Always use the low pressure switch. I've found that on my car, LS1, the pressure is around 30psi or so +/-. Unless your operating psi is much higher (not necessary) using a pressure switch above the low, 20-25psi, will cause the valve to always be on and you might as well use an electric switch to do that which is a bad idea as I mentioned above.
Here's some additional info:
Pressure in the accusump can never get above the engines maximum operating oil psi. That is what fills it.
Always use the low pressure switch. I've found that on my car, LS1, the pressure is around 30psi or so +/-. Unless your operating psi is much higher (not necessary) using a pressure switch above the low, 20-25psi, will cause the valve to always be on and you might as well use an electric switch to do that which is a bad idea as I mentioned above.
#4
Drifting
Accusump
I ran the 3 qt and mounted it inside left front fender well.
There are some great photos of the install by another forum member if you do a search.
I ran 20-25 psi electric valve.
I ran this on my street car for two years and my race car for 18 months (yes, with a crate LS3 that never had a problem) and never had an issue with oiling or starvation, even in left hand sweepers at 1.0-1.2g's. But this was only a 6400 rpm engine which is quite a bit lower than what some of the T1 guys are turning.
There are some great photos of the install by another forum member if you do a search.
I ran 20-25 psi electric valve.
I ran this on my street car for two years and my race car for 18 months (yes, with a crate LS3 that never had a problem) and never had an issue with oiling or starvation, even in left hand sweepers at 1.0-1.2g's. But this was only a 6400 rpm engine which is quite a bit lower than what some of the T1 guys are turning.
#5
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I ran the 3 qt and mounted it inside left front fender well.
There are some great photos of the install by another forum member if you do a search.
I ran 20-25 psi electric valve.
I ran this on my street car for two years and my race car for 18 months (yes, with a crate LS3 that never had a problem) and never had an issue with oiling or starvation, even in left hand sweepers at 1.0-1.2g's. But this was only a 6400 rpm engine which is quite a bit lower than what some of the T1 guys are turning.
There are some great photos of the install by another forum member if you do a search.
I ran 20-25 psi electric valve.
I ran this on my street car for two years and my race car for 18 months (yes, with a crate LS3 that never had a problem) and never had an issue with oiling or starvation, even in left hand sweepers at 1.0-1.2g's. But this was only a 6400 rpm engine which is quite a bit lower than what some of the T1 guys are turning.
i use a manual switch mounted in the ash tray compartment.
#6
Drifting
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#9
Race Director
I'm on the side of NOT needing the pressure valve. I consider the accusump to simply become an integral part of the oiling system, ebbing and flowing as pressure comes and goes. In my mind, it isn't some magic pressure booster that "kicks in" when there is a problem, it is an eternal reservoir of oil that feeds the pump and bearings along with the oil pump, but is always ready to briefly feed the bearings and re-prime the pump (even if flowing backward to do so) until the pickup corrects any starvation problem.
It is just like the tank on the irrigation well in my back yard. The tank is just part of the system.....
It is just like the tank on the irrigation well in my back yard. The tank is just part of the system.....
#11
Drifting
I'm on the side of NOT needing the pressure valve. I consider the accusump to simply become an integral part of the oiling system, ebbing and flowing as pressure comes and goes. In my mind, it isn't some magic pressure booster that "kicks in" when there is a problem, it is an eternal reservoir of oil that feeds the pump and bearings along with the oil pump, but is always ready to briefly feed the bearings and re-prime the pump (even if flowing backward to do so) until the pickup corrects any starvation problem.
It is just like the tank on the irrigation well in my back yard. The tank is just part of the system.....
It is just like the tank on the irrigation well in my back yard. The tank is just part of the system.....
#12
Drifting
#13
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I have a C4 no I am no help on the location, but I feel the same as bobmoore and David in that the accusump should always be working. I have an electric valve that turns mine on with the key also, but no pressure switch.
#14
I recently had an Accusump system added to my engine . It is located in the drivers side front Fender and it has a ON/OFF Switch on the dash. I keep it on all the time. Like others have stated. It is not part of the Oiling system. Not an option. On the street it cant hurt, and on the track I have noticed consistent Oil Pressure levels at various speeds around the track.
I think if you were to install it in the Battery compartment, you might also have to relocate the PCM since the Accusump Tank is at least 18 inches in length.
I think if you were to install it in the Battery compartment, you might also have to relocate the PCM since the Accusump Tank is at least 18 inches in length.