02impactblue

Any recommendations for a mild cam for an ls6. The car is a dedicated track car and I really don't need any more power but since the motor is apart for other repairs I feel I should get something out of my labor and expense. I would like something that is not hell on valve springs and has a nice mid range torque boost. Again, I don't need the extra power but a 50 hp/tq boost would be nice. Thinking mild cam and headers and debating on changing heads to tsp ls6 ported heads. Any thoughts. I still want reliability on the track, so I don't want radical mods.

AU N EGL

224/228 581/588 113+2

hamdog

Everyone I've had conversations with at the track who's started getting into the internals, complains about reliability, overheating, low oil pressure etc.

AU N EGL

Very true, that is why even a cam is not A DIY project.

I run a 224/224 581/581 112+4

comp 918 springs which I change each winter.

also have a 3 qt accu-sump, oil cooler and trans cooler

GettReal

Thats a really good cam, almost exactly what I had as my first cam and it did what you are looking for.

I will also throw this one out there as I have this cam now and I LOVE it
Its a Comp Cam Std off the shelf grind but I find its perfect

232/234 .595/.598 112 it has a little lope, the lift is below 600 so its good for the springs and adds HP and TRQ right where you want it.

AU N EGL

cams are a challenge as we see more 'cammed' LS6s not last very long. Most ppl what to put in a big drag racing cam with mega lift. which will not last in an LS6 road course car.

Keeping the cam small is not a problem IF it is installed by a competent engine builder and a light wt valve train is added.

AU N EGL

When one gets too much duration, low end torque and out of the corners speed suffer.

power UNDER the curve is vital for a road car. NOT peek HP numbers.

trackboss

You can get a good amount of torque with a cam very similar to the ls6 cam, but ground on a 114 or 112. It may not add much in hp though. Just like stock there is no need to go past 6k rpms so reliability is good. The torque will come in almost right off idle. Try TPIS. I always recommend replacing the factory lifter with link bar style to all but eliminate any lifter related failures and improve oil drainage. Just make sure to measure for pushrods properly and get the right ones. Upgrading the rocker arm bearings with the comp ones or bushings is also worthwhile.

crainholio

I have the same mindset as previous posters, your priority for road course use is endurance which means going easy on the valvetrain.

Mine's an LS1, not an LS6 for what it's worth. Thunder Racing 224/224 .563/.563 112 cam here since 2004, lots of HPDE track days and not a hiccup. Crane dual springs...always dual springs with me.

I paid extra and had all 16 springs tested at installed height and max lift, two were excessively weak out of the box and were swapped out. The springs will be getting replaced next Winter as preventative maintenance.

The cam has great street manners, 28mpg during my most recent Interstate road trip running 3.73 rear gears, and makes plenty of low-end grunt to throw it out of the corners.

LG Motorsports

Call us. We have the most choices in proven cams in the Corvette market.

ALl race proven and street driven. Lumpy or not.

Ask for Anthony and he can help you out.

Thanks
Lou Gigliotti
LG MOtorsports 972-429-1963

tcmc5

You might want to consider the GMPP ASA cam. Basic specs are 226/236 .525/.525 110 lsa. Designed for use with the stock LS6 springs it should be very reliable. Makes exc. pwr/tq as long as exhaust is very free flowing, so headers would be recommended. W/ headers should add 50hp.
One of the best things about it is it just sounds totally wicked.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouWIz5NQ05E

RaleighSS

is it the lsa # that gives it the loap?

thehammer69

Actually, no. It's the amount of Overlap that gives it lope. However you can tighten the LSA to gain more overlap.

An example would be a baby cam with tight LSA versus a big cam with wide LSA. The big cam is gonna have more overlap unless the LSA is really wide. And therefore it's going to lope more.

RogueVette

Not in complete agreement with this.

I think it really depends. My car has a small 218/222 cam with lift in the low 600's on a 113 LSA, while a friend has the grand am cam 239/252 with 570 lift and a 106 LSA. Two wide spectrum Cams. Both our cars have seen plenty of track abuse and other then mine having some ring blow by issues likely related to more Nitrous then should be allowed over the years combined with a bad vararam filter, both have been trouble free. Mine has been more "reliable" then any street car I have owned, and his engine has been completely trouble free as well.

I am abusive towards my car, in both maintenance and how I drive it . I honestly think it's just the luck of the draw.

95jersey

Ran a LG G5X3 cam for a few years in my LS6 without any issue. It was an AWESOME cam. Fine for the street and made all the difference on the track. Had plenty of mid range torque and if your that low in the RPM range to not use the power, you are simply in the wrong gear, end of story.

Also, if you buy the right springs that match the cam, the valve train should not be an issue. With any cam (or even stock car), you probably should check the springs every couple years. Worst case, springs are cheap to replace. My opinion if you are going to go cam, make it worthwhile and get something that actually makes power or just stay stock.

J.R.

Originally posted by AU N GEL
I run a 224/224 581/581 112+4

comp 918 springs which I change each winter.

This is a tried an true setup. Comp makes a similar 224/228 581/588
on a 112 and 114 which Tony Mamo from AFR has numerous test cycles on and the power and torque under the curve makes it a performer and very streetable.

I ran this setup in my previous mostly street/track car and it was a great compromise between driveability and all out performance.

If you do a search in this forum or LS1tech forum you can probably find all of Tony's dyno pulls with exact torque and HP numbers.