clutch sunk down when on track??
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
clutch sunk down when on track??
I recently went on an hpde and my clutch didn't come up like it should. I have had my clutch fluid changed about 5000miles ago. What could I do to prevent this?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Safety Car
Change it more frequently & use good Dot 4 like Motul 600 RBF. I changed mine when I felt a difference in the pedal this year which ended up being about 1-2 per day. You don't have to do it very session but after 1 day without, my stuff was black.
#3
Le Mans Master
A remote bleeder and Tick adjustable master will solve the problem forever.
Otherwise do the Ranger mod as often as possible.
Otherwise do the Ranger mod as often as possible.
Last edited by sperkins; 07-19-2010 at 11:40 PM. Reason: 17 years of school and I still can't spell....
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will replace the clutch fluid and see if that helps out.
Can anyone direct me to where the reservoir is? I looked under the hood and couldn't locate it.
Thanks
Can anyone direct me to where the reservoir is? I looked under the hood and couldn't locate it.
Thanks
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#8
Burning Brakes
You can't bleed it unless you have a remote bleeder installed. The only way you can change out your fluid (without a bleeder) is using a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the reservoir. Your reservoir is located on the left side of the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir and is the smaller plastic tank. You should suck the fluid out (not all of it leave a bit on the bottom so you do not introduce air into your clutch system) and add new fluid. Pump the clutch a bit and then suck more fluid out and add more. Repeat until it is clearer. Driving it around you will notice that even if the reservoir was clean it will turn dirty again. Just keep using the above method to clean it out.
This may or may not help/fix the problem. The only way to really know if it helped is to do an autox/ track event/ or drive hard enough to heat the car up really good (but you still might not realize it until the track). What the true issue is your slave cylinder has a grove worn in it and although bleeding the fluid might help or mask the problem the true source of the problem is your slave cylinder is worn out...but the only way to fix that is to pull the trans/diff and torque tube and that can get expensive so many people choose to turkey baster the reservoir and hope that fixes it. If you do eventually replace the slave cylinder make sure to add a remote bleeder so you can bleed the clutch system occasionally.
Good luck and hopefully turkey bastering the fluid helps.
This may or may not help/fix the problem. The only way to really know if it helped is to do an autox/ track event/ or drive hard enough to heat the car up really good (but you still might not realize it until the track). What the true issue is your slave cylinder has a grove worn in it and although bleeding the fluid might help or mask the problem the true source of the problem is your slave cylinder is worn out...but the only way to fix that is to pull the trans/diff and torque tube and that can get expensive so many people choose to turkey baster the reservoir and hope that fixes it. If you do eventually replace the slave cylinder make sure to add a remote bleeder so you can bleed the clutch system occasionally.
Good luck and hopefully turkey bastering the fluid helps.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You can't bleed it unless you have a remote bleeder installed. The only way you can change out your fluid (without a bleeder) is using a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the reservoir. Your reservoir is located on the left side of the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir and is the smaller plastic tank. You should suck the fluid out (not all of it leave a bit on the bottom so you do not introduce air into your clutch system) and add new fluid. Pump the clutch a bit and then suck more fluid out and add more. Repeat until it is clearer. Driving it around you will notice that even if the reservoir was clean it will turn dirty again. Just keep using the above method to clean it out.
This may or may not help/fix the problem. The only way to really know if it helped is to do an autox/ track event/ or drive hard enough to heat the car up really good (but you still might not realize it until the track). What the true issue is your slave cylinder has a grove worn in it and although bleeding the fluid might help or mask the problem the true source of the problem is your slave cylinder is worn out...but the only way to fix that is to pull the trans/diff and torque tube and that can get expensive so many people choose to turkey baster the reservoir and hope that fixes it. If you do eventually replace the slave cylinder make sure to add a remote bleeder so you can bleed the clutch system occasionally.
Good luck and hopefully turkey bastering the fluid helps.
This may or may not help/fix the problem. The only way to really know if it helped is to do an autox/ track event/ or drive hard enough to heat the car up really good (but you still might not realize it until the track). What the true issue is your slave cylinder has a grove worn in it and although bleeding the fluid might help or mask the problem the true source of the problem is your slave cylinder is worn out...but the only way to fix that is to pull the trans/diff and torque tube and that can get expensive so many people choose to turkey baster the reservoir and hope that fixes it. If you do eventually replace the slave cylinder make sure to add a remote bleeder so you can bleed the clutch system occasionally.
Good luck and hopefully turkey bastering the fluid helps.
#11
Safety Car
FWIW, I find one of the blue shop paper towels rolled up to fit inside the master cylinder is just about perfect to soak up the fluid it contains. Then I re-fill with clean fluid, get in and pump the pedal 40-50 times, and repeat until the fluid stays clean[ish].
#12
Burning Brakes
That method is also referred to as the "Ranger Method". Here's a video that he made that many people have watched:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
I was told just any Dot 3/4 brake fluid. Do not use silicone brake fluid. Use a decent Dot 3/4 with a decent boiling point. I just used some stuff from O'Reilly that had a decent dry and wet boiling point and didn't cost $80 a bottle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
I was told just any Dot 3/4 brake fluid. Do not use silicone brake fluid. Use a decent Dot 3/4 with a decent boiling point. I just used some stuff from O'Reilly that had a decent dry and wet boiling point and didn't cost $80 a bottle.
#14
Burning Brakes
#15
Burning Brakes
That method is also referred to as the "Ranger Method". Here's a video that he made that many people have watched:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
I was told just any Dot 3/4 brake fluid. Do not use silicone brake fluid. Use a decent Dot 3/4 with a decent boiling point. I just used some stuff from O'Reilly that had a decent dry and wet boiling point and didn't cost $80 a bottle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
I was told just any Dot 3/4 brake fluid. Do not use silicone brake fluid. Use a decent Dot 3/4 with a decent boiling point. I just used some stuff from O'Reilly that had a decent dry and wet boiling point and didn't cost $80 a bottle.
#16
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Oakville Ontario,Canada
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Rob, let me know if you need help. And I use Wilwood High Temp fluid.
If you are going to be tracking your car more, you will really want the high temp fluid like Motul or Wilwood, especially if you are getting the sticking pedal.
I flush mine using a remote bleeder but I installed that during a clutch change, you can use the turkey baster or syringe method until you need to change yours.
Just so you know... this might not help the sticking pedal.
If you are going to be tracking your car more, you will really want the high temp fluid like Motul or Wilwood, especially if you are getting the sticking pedal.
I flush mine using a remote bleeder but I installed that during a clutch change, you can use the turkey baster or syringe method until you need to change yours.
Just so you know... this might not help the sticking pedal.
Last edited by GettReal; 07-20-2010 at 11:17 PM.
#17
Race Director
I had several emails about the clutch helper spring. It is under the dash, attached to the pedal. I think they came on all c5/c6's, but I could be wrong. It definitely fixed the problem in our 06 Z06, when fresh fluid did not.
#18
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Oakville Ontario,Canada
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I think you are correct David, Back in the day when I had serious sticking pedal issues, I removed the helper spring on my 01 C5 and it helped a little but not enough. I read at the time that it did help some people though so I tried it. I was one of those guys that tried everything before finally replacing the clutch.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did the turkey baster method yesterday. The bluid was mirky. I will continue checking and changing it, hopefully it will work.
What does the spring under the pedal do? If removed, what is supposed to happen?
What does the spring under the pedal do? If removed, what is supposed to happen?
#20
Safety Car
Since it got black on you, change it every time after you drive for a while. It takes 4-6 changes anyway to purge it. Use a good fluid like Motul.