C5Lion

I recently was working on my car after a track event and noticed a few issues that I would like some opinions on.

Issue 1 - one of the bushings on the driver side front upper A arm seems to have shifted. Should I be worried about this and if I want to fix it, what might I do? See the pictures below. One of the pics shows the bushing I speak of and the other picture shows what looks to be a normal bushing.

Issue 2 - I also noticed what looks to be a breakdown of the seals that go around the pistons in the front calipers. A number of the seals look like the picture shown. A few seals still look OK, which I also posted. Is there such a thing as a caliper rebuild kit? Is this a pretty easy job to replace the seals.

My car is a 2007 Z06 with stock calipers. I appreciate your input.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

mousecatcher

yup, that just means you're doing it right! there are fixes for both of these common problems.

unfortunately for the a-arms if you want to keep the stock rubber bushings you have to buy an entire a-arm, about $110 at the various discount vendors. and it will just happen again. i don't think you can effectively press the bushing back to the correct spot.

The GM caliper rebuild kit is about $40.

C5Lion

Do you think the bushing is prone to coming out all the way? Do I need to resolve this before the next track event?

Where is the best place to buy a caliper rebuild kit?

CHJ In Virginia

Forget about the caliper rebuild kit, the dust boots are considered expendable. All you are going to do is burn up the replacement set at your next track event. The next time you do brake pad replacement, just be sure to use brake klene on the pistons and clean all the garbage out prior to pushing the pistons back into the bores. That way you will not harm the seals.
The A arm bushings will bear watching. It can be quite some time till they get bad enough to replace. If the bushing slides enough to go completely under the end of the arm socket, it's time to replace IMHO. Check after each event. You can go stock or aftermarket POLY bushings. Many threads on the pros and cons of this change, do a search.

Zenak

Read in the STICKY for this section on both bushings and OEM caliper rebuilds for all you need to know in gross details:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html

Bill Dearborn

What you need to do is to see how much the alignment has changed. The A Arm has moved on the bushing so that affects caster. When the lower control arm bushings on my 97 slipped I couldn't get anywhere near the factory caster setting.

Bill

C5Lion

Do you think I really need to address the bushing issue now or will it most likely by fine for a few more track days?

dbratten

I ran mine like that for several years until I went with the Pfadt poly bushings. It's not going to come out of there. I didn't find any noticeable alignment issues as it slid rather than moved in or out.

longdaddy

the car should be safe as long as there is rubber inside. once you get into metal on metal situation, you will hear it

Lawdogg

Did you do that running street tires or stickies? I've found that if I stay with street tires the stock bushings last a long time. Put something like Hoosiers on and the bushings will be toast in a hurry.

C5Lion

Thanks Dan for your input.

Did you notice a difference once you went to new bushings? I am totally stock when it comes to suspension and there still is a lot more a really good driver could get out of the car.

C5Lion

I have been Hoosiers. Probably 12 track days.

C5Lion

What do others think of this statement?

I go back and forth between street and track pads for each event.

I am curious. How do the pistons seal the brake fluid from coming out? Is their some sort of o ring on the piston?

Bill Dearborn

It isn't going to come apart but the alignment issue could be a problem. On my 97 the lower control arm bushings slid to the point the control arms were making contact with the cradle. The alignment was bad enough that I was getting negative caster due to the lower control arms moving backwards and the uppers moving forwards like I think the picture is showing yours doing. Checking the alignment would be the first thing I would do. If it is OK or still is adjustable within limits then you have more time.

Bill

froggy47

dbratten

Well, the ride gets rougher.

Everything just feels tighter. Reports say you can run less static camber as there is less deflection. I increased mine anyway so can't say for sure. I installed them about a year ago and added zerts to each. I still haven't added any grease and have not had any squeaking or binding that I can feel when moving them by hand.

But, it would be a shame to have you moved up a class in the challenge.

mousecatcher

Yes, but don't ignore the purpose of the dust seal. In a street car that's likely to log many dusty and dirty street miles without constant brake inspection and cleaning, guess what's going to happen with the dust seal absent?

I'm sure it's not an issue yet, you surely would have noticed it, but you may want to heat shield your tie rod end boots. They get killed by the heat also and you definitely have to replace them if they are damaged.

longdaddy

the parts that melts/tearsis not the same as what makes a seal for the fluid. when mine do that i just tear off as much as i can and start cleaning the dust out of it every time I change pads (toothpick works great)

C5Lion

Dan, who is going to push you to go faster without me? I am basically staying there to help you out.