Need open end lug nuts w/ threaded shank
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Need open end lug nuts w/ threaded shank
I got some (on the LEFT) but they do not have the "bulge" & the ones (on the RIGHT) with the bulge do not have the threaded shank.
The ones with the shank that I have now work ok, but they cut the wheel a little because they do not have the bulge.
1/2 - 1.5
These (with shank)let you run spacers & still get correct/sufficient thread engagement with stock lugs.
I don't want to replace all the lugs with longer at this time. Maybe when I have to do bearings.
The shank has to be thin enought to pass thru the stock wheel lug hole & not too long.
Anyone have a link to a site with lots of lug nut options? And technical specs on the nuts?
Thanks!
The ones with the shank that I have now work ok, but they cut the wheel a little because they do not have the bulge.
1/2 - 1.5
These (with shank)let you run spacers & still get correct/sufficient thread engagement with stock lugs.
I don't want to replace all the lugs with longer at this time. Maybe when I have to do bearings.
The shank has to be thin enought to pass thru the stock wheel lug hole & not too long.
Anyone have a link to a site with lots of lug nut options? And technical specs on the nuts?
Thanks!
Last edited by froggy47; 07-26-2010 at 01:03 PM.
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
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Here's the ones I use.
bigwheelsnyc
$25 for 20 w/free shipping. They have more thread engagment than a standard lugnut due to being ET style.
bigwheelsnyc
$25 for 20 w/free shipping. They have more thread engagment than a standard lugnut due to being ET style.
Last edited by Allthrottleandsomebottle; 07-27-2010 at 06:29 AM. Reason: No links to NSV
#3
Drifting
I got mine from Rockauto
They were made by Dorman. Looked same as GM OEM with external thread for the plastic caps.
They were made by Dorman. Looked same as GM OEM with external thread for the plastic caps.
Last edited by Allthrottleandsomebottle; 07-27-2010 at 06:29 AM. Reason: No links to NSVs
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Charleston South Carolina
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Bob, do those fit inside your spacer holes? I'd be concerned they'd tighten up against the spacer and leave a gap between the wheel and the spacer, essentially leaving the wheel loose.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
The spacer holes are a couple to 3 mm bigger so no issues at all, it can be a bit of a squeeze getting thru the wheel holes, but they worked for me.
The hub hole on my spacers keep it all nice & centric.
I ordered a set, to get free shipping you need to call in the order, they are bulk so I ordered a couple xtra in case of loss.
I have run these w/out the bulge a dozen or more events, probably more like 2 dozen on both ends no worries. It's nice to get 8 to 10 turns of the lug.
If you are at a track day ck torque between sessions, just takes a minute & I found a small loss of torque on a couple or 3 lugs on occasion with spacers. Maybe even without. I think the studs stretch.
Last edited by froggy47; 07-27-2010 at 06:37 PM.
#7
Drifting
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Be careful when torquing between sessions. If they are too hot the aluminum spacers are more maluable and when hot they will compress more. In the end you will start to distort the spacers. I let them cool at least 30 minutes before checking torque. Lately I only do it in the morning before I go on track and after lunc before I go on track.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Be careful when torquing between sessions. If they are too hot the aluminum spacers are more maluable and when hot they will compress more. In the end you will start to distort the spacers. I let them cool at least 30 minutes before checking torque. Lately I only do it in the morning before I go on track and after lunc before I go on track.
Excellent point. I was assuming nobody will check torque while the rotors are still glowing, but it never hurts to be specific.
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
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Be careful when torquing between sessions. If they are too hot the aluminum spacers are more maluable and when hot they will compress more. In the end you will start to distort the spacers. I let them cool at least 30 minutes before checking torque. Lately I only do it in the morning before I go on track and after lunc before I go on track.
#10
Safety Car
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
I got mine from geerookie's vendor (the link has since been deleted by a mod) but you should be able to google it up.
It used to be that links were banned on Zo6vettedotcom but were OK on CF.
I guess that changed?
When did that change?
It used to be that links were banned on Zo6vettedotcom but were OK on CF.
I guess that changed?
When did that change?