Baer tie rod ends vs OEM
#1
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Baer tie rod ends vs OEM
I have a 2007 coupe that sees 1/2 dozen HPDEs per year, and I just finished baking my first front outer tie rod end boot. I wasn't aware of that whole heat issue until now...
My options are :
a) replace with OE parts ($208.63 shipped from gmpartsdirect). Will come with the same rubber boot and will require heat protection.
b) Baer Tracker bump steer kit ($176.95 shipped from Summit). Same product sold by LG, Zip,... Shouldn't need any heat protection, should be able to replicate OE part geometry.
My car has stock Z51 suspension, so I don't need bump steer correction. I don't race in any series, so I have no requirements to remain stock.
Is there any reason not to buy the cheaper, superior Baer kit? What am I missing? Why would anybody bother with the OE part and its associated heat issues?
Thank you
My options are :
a) replace with OE parts ($208.63 shipped from gmpartsdirect). Will come with the same rubber boot and will require heat protection.
b) Baer Tracker bump steer kit ($176.95 shipped from Summit). Same product sold by LG, Zip,... Shouldn't need any heat protection, should be able to replicate OE part geometry.
My car has stock Z51 suspension, so I don't need bump steer correction. I don't race in any series, so I have no requirements to remain stock.
Is there any reason not to buy the cheaper, superior Baer kit? What am I missing? Why would anybody bother with the OE part and its associated heat issues?
Thank you
#3
if you just melted the boot, the ball joint may still be good. you can buy polyurethane replacement boot from summit and wrap it up with flue tape. you want something reflective between the boot and your brake rotors - that's why I like the silver tape. i used to melt the boots every few days before I started wrapping them with reflective tape but only killed the joints once in each corner.
some people manufacture a mini-shield that you hang on the bolt and secure with the nut and then it bends down to form a barrier between the boot and the rotor. combination of that and some sort of a wrap around the whole boot is probably going ot give you the best results.
if you need tie rod ends themselves, vb&p are considered to be one of the more resilient ones. they list them as up to 06 model year fit but I am almost certain they will fit any C5 or C6, I do not believe there has been any changes in geometry or sizes, but I am not 100% sure, best to call them and ask about C6 fit, I guess.
http://www.vbandp.com/C5-Corvettes/S.../Rear-End.html
some people manufacture a mini-shield that you hang on the bolt and secure with the nut and then it bends down to form a barrier between the boot and the rotor. combination of that and some sort of a wrap around the whole boot is probably going ot give you the best results.
if you need tie rod ends themselves, vb&p are considered to be one of the more resilient ones. they list them as up to 06 model year fit but I am almost certain they will fit any C5 or C6, I do not believe there has been any changes in geometry or sizes, but I am not 100% sure, best to call them and ask about C6 fit, I guess.
http://www.vbandp.com/C5-Corvettes/S.../Rear-End.html
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Get the replacement boots, the chances that the joint is bad are very small. No sense in spending big bucks on parts and alignment if you don't need to. Wrap the joint in header wrap or buy the shields and install to avoid future meltdowns.
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#7
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I suggest staying stock and shielding it somehow.
Going to our kit means going through bumpsteer measurements and I'm not sure if you have ever done this or not, but it takes a while. You could pay someone to do it but they are going to charge for a lot of hours, I assume.
You could get the kit "close" to stock, slap it on and go, but I wouldn't trust that. It doesn't take much of a change in the tie rod height to alter the camber curve.
Going to our kit means going through bumpsteer measurements and I'm not sure if you have ever done this or not, but it takes a while. You could pay someone to do it but they are going to charge for a lot of hours, I assume.
You could get the kit "close" to stock, slap it on and go, but I wouldn't trust that. It doesn't take much of a change in the tie rod height to alter the camber curve.
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Thank you Mister Zip for your honest reply. Many sellers would have used this opportunity to try and sell me their product even if it wasn't the right fit for my needs. You have earned my future business.
Thanks all for the help. I'm going with the VBP replacement tie rod ends. Same type of product as OE, just better from everything I read.
Thanks all for the help. I'm going with the VBP replacement tie rod ends. Same type of product as OE, just better from everything I read.
#10
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errance,
If you have GMPP they will replace your tie rod ends. I had header wrap on all the tie rods on my 03Z and still went through 6 of them. I made some shields from some old soup cans and put them over the header wrap.
Bill
If you have GMPP they will replace your tie rod ends. I had header wrap on all the tie rods on my 03Z and still went through 6 of them. I made some shields from some old soup cans and put them over the header wrap.
Bill
#14
IMO header wrap is the wrong thing to use b/c it is designed to keep radiant heat in vs. reflecting the heat radiated from the rotor. Personally I use DEI cool tape and a plain 'ol zip tie for extra security. Oddly the zip ties never melt... never have boot issues doing this.
This is my rear setup w/ parking brake fully deleted
This is my rear setup w/ parking brake fully deleted
#15
Terminal Vette Addict
Quantum ducts and Heat Shields are the way to go, plus the heat tape with wire tie (not zip ties that melt) is a great double back up.
Also the VBP tie rods are beefy, life time guaranteed, and had a ZERK fitting to grease them before each event!
Screw OEM, they suck.
Also the VBP tie rods are beefy, life time guaranteed, and had a ZERK fitting to grease them before each event!
Screw OEM, they suck.
#17
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EN...0&autoview=sku -- tie rods