RX-Ben

Does everyone do this with all their rotors, even their spares? This seems like an incredible PITA.
Will getting cryo'd discs make this unnecessary?

I cracked a new (NAPA Canadian) disc after 5 sessions (with ducts). Changing discs is a bit less fun than driving.

Are 2-piece setups any more tolerant of going out fresh? The cost of 2-piecers seems even higher as I'll need a spare set of hats & rings to do a quick change at the track as swapping hats will take a while.

AU N EGL

Cryo rotors may crack faster and in many times do crack faster.

Two piece rotors are best, but still need to be beaded as with any brake rotors or brake pads.

This is all part of the prep work for track driving.

VetteDrmr

Yes, I "season" all of my rotors using the Stoptech procedures. In fact I've got to do it again this week.

Have a good one,
Mike

johninar

Yes, bed them in. I'm taking it a step further this winter. I drive my car year round so I'll put some street miles on rotors over the winter on several sets of rotors. The rotors that I've used that had street miles lasted way longer than new ones that just got bedded and run on the track.

Good Luck.

RX-Ben

Thanks for confirming.
The rotors that came on the car (bought it used) have lasted 3+ days vs. the new one lasted 5 sessions.

John Shiels

You can thermal shock any rotor period. Two piece will be more forgiving because of the shape (flat) makes it easier for the rotor to deal with the expansion and contraction as it does not have the solid cone fighting expansion.. Stoptech had good seasoning procedure on their white paper section. If I did that I was lucky. I just ate the splits. When braking you can say "I hate changing rotors" tens times on each corner approach and you mat treat them a tad better when braking hard! Scrub less speed and go faster through the corners for better rotor life. As I got faster the rotors lasted a slight bit longer. I learned to only murder them in hotter competition or looking for a lap time even though it's a HPDE.

drivinhard

they tend to last a bunch longer if you can street drive them first. Sometimes there is no option but to take a new one out of the box and flog it, but new ones with no heat cycles/seasoning seem to pop quick.

Bill Dearborn

At an HPDE you don't need to flog a new one during its very first session. Backing off and driving an 80% session will season the rotor.

Bill

Jason

I'd love to have the time to bed all my spares. Most of the time it ends up being an at the track thrash then right to grid. If I'm lucky I'll get a chance to run up and down the street outside the track for a couple min. Probably get a ticket doing that one of these days.

JimbeauZ06

Ben,
Been through this with G (silver C6) all season. We've bedded not bedded. Slotted, eliptical, plain, cryo and non-cryo. Different brand and pad compounds. Ducts or no ducts. Cheaper rotors (NAPA, Centric, etc ) are going to last you 3-5 track days like you ran with us. More expensive I.e. two-piece rotors will last longer but at many times higher price. Best suggestion is stock up and replace them before each event or invest in a good battery powered impact wrench and get used to changing them.

RX-Ben

Thanks Jim.

It isn't so much the time it takes to change the rotors, it is the time I miss on the track.
I have had much better luck with used as opposed to new rotors, so I'll put in the time to break-in my spares and hope for the best before looking to a floating setup. Even at $155 for spare Coleman rings, that is a pricey setup.

JimbeauZ06

Interesting that you bring up Coleman. Discussions with Fred B from the club he has a long standing relationship w them and says he has custom rotors cut for his 911 that last all year. His car is lighter than ours but still worth a try. Most other 2pc rotors are over 200ea for rings. It will be an off-seasonpurchase for me along with ducts new SKF hubs and a few other items. Also pulling carpet etc. Almost looking forward to winter. (not really )