problem with CV/axle boots te
#1
Racer
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problem with CV/axle boots te
I have been replacing both inner and outer (mostly outers) boots at least a dozen times... they seem to tear easily and make a hell of a mess slinging grease all over the place...not really sure what it is from but assume from debris/rocks...one fella suggested custom leather "off-road" covers to put on top of the rubber boots...
Does anyone know of a "tougher" boot or a solution as I'm tired of replacing them all the time?
Thanks in advance for any help and/or suggestions!
Does anyone know of a "tougher" boot or a solution as I'm tired of replacing them all the time?
Thanks in advance for any help and/or suggestions!
#2
Safety Car
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What application is this problem on - strictly a track car ? I have never heard of anyone going through that many boots ----- Are you using a stock GM replacement boot or are you using an aftermarket boot ? I personally would stick with GM OEM boots. They cost more, but are tough and usually last a long time if properly installed. The second question is how are you installing and clamping the replacement boots ? Proper installation is a necessity, follow the factory shop manual on this process.
#3
Drifting
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If the boots are not installed properly they have too much air and moisture in them. When they heat up to track temp they expand like a balloon and then rub on things and pop.
Ask a few of us how we know It gets messy
I once used NAPA axles and had the same problem. They work fine on the street but when you have elevated temps at the track they make a mess.
There are a few vendors here on the forum that reman axles that will work under track conditions.
Ask a few of us how we know It gets messy
I once used NAPA axles and had the same problem. They work fine on the street but when you have elevated temps at the track they make a mess.
There are a few vendors here on the forum that reman axles that will work under track conditions.
#4
Racer
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What application is this problem on - strictly a track car ? I have never heard of anyone going through that many boots ----- Are you using a stock GM replacement boot or are you using an aftermarket boot ? I personally would stick with GM OEM boots. They cost more, but are tough and usually last a long time if properly installed. The second question is how are you installing and clamping the replacement boots ? Proper installation is a necessity, follow the factory shop manual on this process.
They are installed by a GM Master technician (assuming according to the shop manual) so I assume it is done correctly...
Frustrating....
#5
Racer
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If the boots are not installed properly they have too much air and moisture in them. When they heat up to track temp they expand like a balloon and then rub on things and pop.
Ask a few of us how we know It gets messy
I once used NAPA axles and had the same problem. They work fine on the street but when you have elevated temps at the track they make a mess.
There are a few vendors here on the forum that reman axles that will work under track conditions.
Ask a few of us how we know It gets messy
I once used NAPA axles and had the same problem. They work fine on the street but when you have elevated temps at the track they make a mess.
There are a few vendors here on the forum that reman axles that will work under track conditions.
#6
Drifting
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#8
Drifting
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When I blew the boots I went to Phoenix and explained what happened and they said it was common on track cars. I also know of others that have had the problem when buying reman'd or aftermarket axles.
If I remember correctly (been 2 years) the guys at Phoenix said it was because of the way they are assembled....not evacuated properly or something like that. I think it also had something to do with the grease used.
Regardless, I bought some from them and haven't a problem since.
I figured if they can build that many T1 Corvettes and not have a problem they must know what they are doing.
Call them, maybe they will explain what they do differently.
Last edited by geerookie; 09-22-2010 at 08:06 PM. Reason: forgot to answer one of the questions
#9
Safety Car
You need to talk to Louis or Lou at LGM. Lou had a very similar problem this year at Homestead. Talk to them. I don't know what the eventual solution was but it seemed to work.
Richard Newton
Richard Newton
#11
Racer
Any updates on this issue since September? What did you find out?
Today at Auto Club Speedway, I had an passenger side inner boot slide off at 140 in turn 1. The boot was intact, so we replaced the clamp and went back out. Three laps later, same thing happened to the drivers side. They were just rebuilt, and have a feeling the shop used aftermarket, not GM boots. We're beginning to think the aftermarket boots aren't as long and are getting stretched.
Today at Auto Club Speedway, I had an passenger side inner boot slide off at 140 in turn 1. The boot was intact, so we replaced the clamp and went back out. Three laps later, same thing happened to the drivers side. They were just rebuilt, and have a feeling the shop used aftermarket, not GM boots. We're beginning to think the aftermarket boots aren't as long and are getting stretched.
#12
Racer
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Any updates on this issue since September? What did you find out?
Today at Auto Club Speedway, I had an passenger side inner boot slide off at 140 in turn 1. The boot was intact, so we replaced the clamp and went back out. Three laps later, same thing happened to the drivers side. They were just rebuilt, and have a feeling the shop used aftermarket, not GM boots. We're beginning to think the aftermarket boots aren't as long and are getting stretched.
Today at Auto Club Speedway, I had an passenger side inner boot slide off at 140 in turn 1. The boot was intact, so we replaced the clamp and went back out. Three laps later, same thing happened to the drivers side. They were just rebuilt, and have a feeling the shop used aftermarket, not GM boots. We're beginning to think the aftermarket boots aren't as long and are getting stretched.
I do not know the solution to this problem but I have found a thicker boot that has helped tremendously but it does still happen....let me know what you find out, if anything...
#13
Burning Brakes
There is probably a reason the factory boots list for about $70 (!) and the auto parts store versions are far less. That is what I am investigating with Superior Chevrolet. (The Gen Mgr is a T1 racer and the parts mgr is his crew chief.)
#14
Drifting
I am not sure if this will help the situation, but my former track car was a Mustang Cobra with an IRS. There were several fellow Cobra owners that encountered what you guys are describing. One person found a solution by installing the small red straw that comes with a can of WD-40 in between the boot and the axle shaft before clamping it down. This allowed excess heat to slightly vent from inside the boot whenever heat caused pressure to build up inside.
Just a suggestion, not saying it is a solution for you.
-Kevin
Just a suggestion, not saying it is a solution for you.
-Kevin
#15
Melting Slicks
Valvoline SynPower specifies it is for also suitable for CV joints.
From Valvoline PDS
Valvoline SynPower Grease is an excellent heavy-duty and multi-purpose automotive and industrial extreme pressure grease. It consists of a lithium complex thickener in synthetic base oil and is fortified with molybdenum disulfide and other quality additives. It provides protection from high loads and may be used over a wide temperature range.
Valvoline SynPower Grease is recommended for use in disc brake and non-disc brake wheel bearings, all-purpose chassis lubrication and constant velocity joint applications.
As stated before-get as much air out of the boot before sealing.
From Valvoline PDS
Valvoline SynPower Grease is an excellent heavy-duty and multi-purpose automotive and industrial extreme pressure grease. It consists of a lithium complex thickener in synthetic base oil and is fortified with molybdenum disulfide and other quality additives. It provides protection from high loads and may be used over a wide temperature range.
Valvoline SynPower Grease is recommended for use in disc brake and non-disc brake wheel bearings, all-purpose chassis lubrication and constant velocity joint applications.
As stated before-get as much air out of the boot before sealing.